Qman

Yes, it needs to be turned to avoid shudder.

Every bolt has a specific torque value. The guys who subscribe to the thought that just make it tight are the ones I blame when bolts don't come loose without using extreme force. And tight enough explains why I see wheels seperate from cars going down the road. And thanks for showing your ignorance... Generally speaking, there really isn't a reason for slip critical joints or bolts in an automotive application. I guess bushings would sort of fall into that catagory but not bolts.

Or... you could do it on the car and actually accomplish something...

Believe it if you want, but don't spread it around!

If driven conservatively, yes. Otherwise, no!

It is not wrong to want to do the job correctly. Torque specs are important. It will stop a bolt or fastener from being over-stressed. Your caliper bolt is best between the numbers you gave. Shoot for the mid and you'll be fine. You can add a little blue lock-tite if you are concerned of it coming loose.

Where do you get this stuff? Worst advice I could imagine.

Until all the connectors corrode.

First, the pistons and head cc's make up the compression. So, SPFI will not guarrantee 9.5/1. The best combination I came up with was; Hydraulic heads(large valve) - blended ports 1600 pistons Decked .020 - any more and you'll have problems installing the intake Port matched intake adapter for the Weber Weber 32/36 with the biggest jets I could find lightened EA82 flywheel XT6 clutch assy. Cam of your choice. I built two of these motors for myself and a couple of them for board members. McBrat has one and so does Edrach. There really is no comparison. Turbone is driving one of them and Breeke is driving the other one. Breekes replaced an EA82 with the one with the torque cam. Turbone is driving my old BRAT with the HP cam. That BRAT constantly set fast times at local rallycross events. It has a few other goodies as well though. I could run down a friends slightly modded turbo wagon with out a problem. He was just slightly disappointed when that happened. The only combination that would be better than these would be a set of RAM heads. But, those cost more than a lot of the vehicles here. Did those pistons come from NSI in Arlington, Washington? You do not have to worry about "zero" clearance on a gear-driven motor. The biggest thing would be the fuel availibilty for such pistons and the compression they would generate.. Since they were designed for gyro and ultra-lights they usually had access to av-gas, do you?

Misjudging means seeing 6" and it being 12". You need to dry every connection. Drain every fluid. And the interior... that is a totally different story.

It is absolutely fair. Why should you not pay for the mechanics experience and knowledge? It took years for that mechanic to get good at his trade. He didn't just know how to do a particular job. He had to learn how to do it fast. He had to buy special tools to do this job that fast. Flat rate shops also have warranty work which is a non paying job. Even if the part fails and all the labor was correct it still is done for free. If you want it done correctly you will pay for it or do it a few times yourself.

Mount it to your stand the same way it was bolted to the transmission.

Run your cursor over the word sedan

Karma, always come back around doesn't it?!?

I do agree. I didn't say it was the vehicle of choice. But, run what you brung is what you have to do sometimes!

EA81 Turbo's with manual transmission mods were very capable off-road. I know a few people who had the 4 and 5 sp D/R added later and they were very quick by 80's standards. You did have to monitor the cooling system a lot closer but they did just fine.

Quoting accurate information WILL help him more than anything.

Don't care. Turbo coupes BRATs and wagons. That is all that was available in the US market. Since we are in the US market it would make sense to document US markets. If you are basing your experience or knowledge off of bruchures you should probably check more than one source. In 1983, the wagon and BRAT were the only Turbo options. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/literature/brochures/1983-turbo-d.jpg They came with an oil cooled turbo which didn't hold up too well. In late 1983 they came out with a oil/water cooled version which did much better. In 1984, they widened the options to the Coupe, Wagon and BRAT. All came as automatics. Some came with analog and some had digital dash displays. GL-10 option did not mean it was a turbo equipped model.

What he said. The cables do not stretch much on those.

First, there were NO turbo sedans. Some people actually look for rigs that are in good shape. You do not have to beat the hell out of your trail rig to enjoy the outdoors. If you have to you are doing it wrong. Learning to drive is a better idea than beating your rig and the trail to death. Stupidity is not a USMB standard but it is becoming more prevalent. You have stated your opinion. And "your" facts for that matter .

Right... and where is that one again? Wingless... changing springs is a no-brainer...PSA, anyone with a brain knows you have to change the trunk springs.

Are you serious? This is not an Outback. The low profile tires and 18's are a STi combination. I think it may be you who does not get it. Subaru seems to get it as their sales continue to climb. It is not designed to go off-road in this configuration. You keep dreaming of the BRAT that Subaru will not build again...

It is an EJ20G. Not a bad price considering you get everything. The EJ20G's are good for about 245bhp. This is the same motor that is in Tex's Ultimate RX. Ask him what he thinks. Or, you could buy his and have fun right away!

How about you quit being an idiot about this...

EA81 T-coupe is 4wd. Sedans are quite common around here. Most of them had holes and hardware in place for 4wd. Even if you had to drill 4 holes for the mustache bar. Why would you convert a standard hatch? Never liked the large round headlights on those.