Qman

Actually, that guy did none of his own work. That is one that Mudrat did before he was banned here. It did have all the goodies though. It does have a 5sp D/R from a GL/Loyale.

What about the countersink?

One of the guys in our group years ago did this. Constantly bending rims and blowing out tires. Not recommended!

Bent dust cover or brake pad squeeler maybe

So, which is it... off or on... really?

Another thought... any windshield leaks or any water leaks for that matter? I realize you said that you park in a garage. Has it been raining at all in your area? Corrosion near the fusibles... bare wires under the dash... there could be several reasons for this.

Should be in the same plugs you already unplugged. Check the wires going into them for signs that they are contacting eachother.

No relays for radio. Check the connectors in the pink plugs. They tend to melt as they get old. Two of the connectors could be contacting in the plug itself.

From my experiences 10w30 should be fine. I also have used a small amount of anti-sieze when putting steel bolts into aluminum threads.

A donor car is the bet approach. As for being too much work. Not really. Bolt in the rear sub and change the fuel tank. Swap out the trans. Change the front struts. What more is there? Besides, what better way to learn the entire workings of your car by doing a tear-down and reassembly. It will take some time but is not a difficult job. Finding one that is already equipped would be faster but not as fun!!

Yep, you're right over analyzed it for sure. Steel vs aluminum threads need to be accounted for as well. Not just diameter and length. I have done several of these and one is enough. But, if you feel better about it see if they are available and at what cost.

1 Helicoil is all you need. Any more and you run the risk of dislodging them or causing thread mismatch.

The ignitor is seperate and mounted on the firewall directly behind the throttle body. That would be my first checking point, spark. No spark then coil or ignitor.

Sorry, but nothing about Doug's motor builds is a simple bolt-on!

That's a cute little blower ya got there boy! Not sure why you would post an underhood V-8 blower on a Subaru forum...

Looks very nice.

That is the thoughts I used to come up with my advice.

Yes, coil type thread insert. The existing hole will keep you straight as long as you do not use a lot of force when drilling. Put a little grease on the flutes to hold the chips from drilling and threading.

If it had seen heat I would agree. It did not nor did it achieve final torque. The gasket will be fine. If you have a dealer local to you and can get one without a lot of delay I would consider it. If not, run with it.

Heli-coil the block. I would consider doing them all if you have some that are bad. The gasket will be fine as you never achieved full torque. I did a head job once that I had pulled the threads on no less than 5 holes. Very frustrating. I feel your pain. But, all repairs held up fine as far as I know. Never heard of any problems later on.

No need to switch from left to right or right to left. You only swap the running gear. It is expensive unless you can do your own work. Better off swapping a USDM WRX or STi. Still expensive though.

That's nuts!

Just want to quote this for future use!!

Axles break due to spinning in the air then coming in contact with the ground. Better lines and less gas will relieve most of your breakage issues. The hybrids allow a little more travel. But the reason for breakage is poor driving habits!

Not sure. You could probably sneek into the woods and find a spot.