Qman

Very nice fab work. I also use the 5sp crossmember for my swaps. I love to see creative fabrication.

XT 2wd drive rear coil-overs are longer, IIRC. Something about the mounting is slightly different. Either location or top bracket. I honestly can't remember exactly what it is for sure though.

Your opinion has nothing to do with PO people. It is simply your delivery. You shoot your mouth off with nothing to back it up with. You quote people singling them out with bashing their opinions with your own. Treat people better and they will not get PO'd at you.

You are only partially correct. Obviously, your 35 yrs makes you an expert and everyone else knows nothing. Back off the slams to others and think before you speak. Dude, if you have something that provides what you need do it. Subaru is not the end all of auto's. I have owned, driven, worked on and destroyed too many different cars to remember. I have owned over a hundred Subaru's. 10 different Chevy trucks, a couple fords, Olds, Chevy... every brand has a benefit. Some have more than others some less. The most important thing is to find the one that fits what you need at the moment. Be it a Subaru or a Plymouth it really doesn't matter. Anyone who thinks otherwise is extremely naive and uneducated. Hey hiney, what makes your skillz better than others. Driving school, million miles over the road or just your ego? Seriously, that statement is over the top to say the very least.

Seriously? You just took a 2 hr job and made it at least a four hour ordeal.

VF-39 and TD-04 have both been swapped to EA82T. Should be a lot of info of you do a search for it.

You can go into 4WDHI at any speed. However, you should not go into 4WDlo above 30mph. (It will drive faster than 30 just don't go into it above 30) The clutch should be used when you shift into 4WD. Less pressure put on the drivetrain that way. And recommended by Subaru. As already stated, different sized tires or pressures will cause binding. Also, make sure the wheels are all going straight. As turning can cause the system to not engage. Usually, if having trouble getting out of 4WD backing up will rid the bind. Do not adjust the linkage unless you have a transmission manual. You should never have to adjust the linkage unless someone has already mis-adjusted the linkage. I may have an '86 manual. I'll check and let you know.

You will not solve all your problems. You'll have to check the oilpassages to verify they will swap. You can run a solid lifter on a hydraulic cam but not the other way around. I wouldn't do it but to each his own.

It was a theory but never proven. I really doubt it as the tube and bends combined for about 5-6 feet in length,

Yep, had that problem before. Go to search, then advanced search, then enter snorkle/snorkel in the keyword area, then enter.

Also, a search revealed these posts. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=900640 Some are very old and have bad links but the info is there for the finding.

Here's a better pic of the snorkle.

For a lot of water these are required. My Hatch and Brat had these. Also, you'll need to seal the disty to keep water out of there as well. Not hardly! The "for show" guys didn't go where the Hatch Patrol went. Partially true. We had a lot of times where both water amd dust were an issue. There were several times when water up to the windshield was the norm. Here is my snorkel. I have not found any pics of the engine compartment though. This was before the snorkel

No, good job. As soon as you said slop I remembered what the problem probably was gonna be. Been a long time since I messed with these. I didn't find the bushings last night Briggs. I'll look some more tonight.

Well, first off info about the vehicle would be nice. Sounds like a possible O2 sensor or jumped time from all the info you have given so far.

There is absolutely no reason to use 4wd on dry pavement. Rule of thumb is dirt, gravel, ice or snow. If it isn't present do not use it. Also, push button can be engaged on the fly under 30mph.

That's a video. There is a lot of slop.

It may very well be bad. But until you replace the bushing you run the risk of killing another one.

Oh yeah, that is it! I think I still have a couple bushings at home. I will check and let Rob know. Ken

Oh hell, I can't believe I didn't think of this earlier. Slop=bad bushing. Check shaft play. It could also be causing spikes if it contacts. Could explain the over-heated wires and connector.

I was talking to Rob, check the modules in the disty. Could be that everytime you change out the coils that you are improving the connections there.

Briggs, bypass that connection and the problem will be solved. The plastic melts causing a bad connection. Take the wires out of that connector and reconnect them with good ends. I had the same thing happen only in my case it would not shut off. Redid the connection and never had problems again.

Keeping parts that are in disrepair is just lazy.

What EA82 or EJ experience do you have?

Everyone talks about failure and replacing the belts in short time, blah, blah, blah... Use new parts when doing the timing belts and they last. Use crappy or used parts and they will fail prematurely. I would not want any dirt, excess dust, mud or other debris anywhere near my belts or idlers. As far as covers coming loose... tighten the bolts... use loctite... A qulity skid plate will only keep solid items out of the lower engine compartment. Muddy water still has free access to everything in the engine compartment. Ultimately, it is the individuals decision. To each his own.