Qman

And that is saying something!! :burnout:

Congrats to Matt(M4) and Mark(PA) for their first place finishes. I made a uge mistake on the first run and just couldn't catch back up. Almost but not enough. Good job guys!! This was a truly interesting course. If you haven't experienced a Brooklyn rallyX then you should really try it. Beware though, the course is much rougher than anything Hillsboro could ever throw at you. Sump guards/skid plates are a must. The terrain changes are a great change from the otherwise flat stuff we are used to. Janice and her crew make big strides every event and make it fun and entertaining.

One of their regulars pulls the turbo's. Been there, done that! Same with most of the carbs.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49131 Please see this thread.

Huck, I knew it would fit. Way to go. I bet it is very fun to drive. I doubt mine is that fast but maybe close. Did it drop right in or did it require some massaging? Again way to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Keep in mind that this is one man's opinion. Many have done this swap and had ZERO issues(other than that one man) with the brakes. The issue he had may have arisen from the fact that his wagon was originally a 2wd that he converted to 4WD. Bottom line is that it has been shown to not be completely neccessary to change the proportioning valve but, by all means, if you choose to do it make sure you bleed everything completely and enjoy your new brakes!!

As Caboobaroo stated I do have a couple of EA81 running Delta cams. EA81's need to use the hydraulic cam as they have more material and are adjustable. So, once you install them you adjust the lash and are good to go. No shims required on an EA81 or an EJ for that matter. They have two grinds available for the EA81. Torque and HP are the way they describe them. Anyone reading this can drop my name when talking to Delta about cams. It may not get you a better price but it should get you better service and will let them know that I continue to recommend them to people. They sponsor my XT6 rallyX car. They know me as Ken.

I have their cams in a couple of EA81's, an ER27 and an EJ25. The reason it will require shimming is simple once you understand a couple of things. First, The EA82's and ER27 engines are overhead cam/hydraulic lifter engines. They have cam cases that the cam slides into. The diameter of the bearing surfaces is unchanged and can not be altered. So, the cam overall diameter must stay the same. They do this by removing material from the backside of the cam and adding material to the front side. Because the EA/ER is not adjustable you must shim the lifter up to overcome the fact that material was removed from the cam. I used dimes as well. This is where it will get a little tricky. You need to find 8 dimes that are exactly the same thickness. Dimes vary a lot due to age, circulation and casting. It cost me a roll of dimes from the bank($5.00). Just use a micrometer or caliper to measure them. For the record, I was the one who told them about the shimming. And I got the original info from Chuck the original Monster XT6 guy from WCSS3.

Good luck on your trek. See ya' when you arrive safely.

Gary, there is a seal between the halves of the block. Can you post a pic? I will check my FSM's to see if it is in the same area.Thinner/thicker oil might start/stop leaks but it is just possible that the block sealant or o-ring need to be renewed.

I hate to be the heavy but you leave me no choice. You posted about wheeling on private land. You were told it is such and that it was trespassing. Therefore this becomes an illegal topic which can and will not be allowed.

I hate to be the heavy but you leave me no choice. You posted about wheeling on private land. You were told it is such and that it was trespassing. Therefore this becomes an illegal topic which can and will not be allowed.

Snorkels were designed for the Safari. They have been brought into the rest of off-roading from there. The original concept behind snorkels was to get the air intake to clean air. The dust and dirt from the Safari and deserts is why it is located above roof line. Not neccessarily because of water but like I said not the original reason for them any way.

Geoffrey, you'll need to swap strut tops from the XT6 and the Legacy. Otherwise you'll need to grind the hole a bit. Also note, that the Legacy struts have camber adjustment and the XT6 does not. Make sure the bolts are super tight. You may also have to spread the Legacy strut mounts a litlle to fit them up to the XT6 knuckle/spindle. 2wd drive XT rears will give a slight amount of lift to the rear over 4WD. The 2wd drive rears are actually a slight bit longer because the mounting locations are different.

I have done it both ways. My hatch had a two piece. I had it made with larger diameter tubing for the back half and servicable u-joint as well. Matt is right about it being a little difficult to weld the mount for the carrier bearing but it is doable. It does get it out of the way but not by that much.

I think I can pull more than that. I have run mine well over 6K many times and it loves it!!Maybe I'll just have to go to the track.

I knew that looked familiar. Pic taken at the shop right?

Go to any 4X4 swap meet and you will find at least one set. They are used by many offroaders for rear seats. They can be left in the elements and fit in just about any configuration. It's been that way for years. At least they actually use them!!

The wheel shown will not fit a Brat or any other EA** Subaru for that matter(without mods). The wheels further down the pages are indeed for the Subaru's. Standard "H" pattern alloy's that can be had for that price for 2 complete sets!

My '85 Brat may qualify for EA81. I have never taken it to the track but seat of the pants testing and many shocked passengers may be testimony enough! Estimated hp by builders, cam grinders and experienced modifiers is about 150bhp at the crank. It has set fastest lap times at ORG rallyx is the past. The XT6 is also a bit modified as well. I doubt it is the fastest though. There have been a few people who played with nitrous setups with these. I also have a 2.5 Brighton that puts out some power that is being compared with the WRX. I have not dyno'd any of these vehicles so all claims are just that.

It may be a bearing, a motor/trans mount, a driveline(U-joints are staked), could be an axle even. Is the dog bone(engine stabilizer) connected and tight? Are you feeling it in the gas pedal itself or the floor beneath your foot? Must be very frustrating!

Taking out the entire dash is a huge pain. You may be able to access the area by removing the dash cluster. There should be 3 screws on the top and a couple on the bottom. Remove the bezel(trim) and there will be a few more screws. Remove these, pull the cluster out enough to get to the plugs and unhook them. Remove the speedo cable and it should pull out of the dash. The should give you enough room to get to the area to check for a bad relay or bare wires. Good luck.

I'll combine this one if it is an "official" wheeler. Same info in two forums is crossposting and not allowed! Even you have to follow the rules.

Way to go Dave. What's involved in getting a page?

Nope, but it sure is showing up in a bunch of forums too!! Which forum do you want it to stay in Brian?!?