Qman

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55674

Bad diodes will not cause a jumpy tach. They will cause the idiot lights to glow though. The bushing or the electronic module in the disty is going bad. My guess would be the module as it changes with temp. Easy to replace either the module itself or the disty.

Quite right Gary, beat me to it actually. I have had them done before through the driveline shop I use. It isn't cheap.

? I hope you're just playing on words. A rotor can be machined until it reachs the minimum spec for thickness. The solution for a warped rotor is machining/turning on a brake lathe.

Always allowed any vehicle to come on our runs. That's part of being with the Hatch Patrol. We don't care what you drive on the trail. We just want you with us on the trail. We've had 'yota's, sami's, Jeeps, Dodges, Fords, Chevy's... they've all been with us. Scott, remind me next time we are together, I have something for you.

Yes sir, we definitely have a good group up here. I think we'll have to keep 'em all around.

That would probably be because I was driving at that point. I did ask him if he got the holes in the console fixed before I went in though. Doesn't look that deep though, oh yeah, that's right, Rob has an 8" lift and 30" tires

Unless the selling dealer neglected to input your data into the computer. I checked for mine and the dealer back east didn't put that info in the 'puter.

The point everyone seems to be missing is that it has a non-reserve bid of $51.00. Sure the BIN is high but most are. It looks like an every day POS. Nothing special and high mileage as well. Shouldn't go for much more than a couple of hundred.

A hatch 4wd tank only holds 11.8 or so gallons. A 2wd holds about 13.2 or so as memory serves. These are also Hatchback specific. And wagons did indeed come in 2wd and 4wd.

I happen to know the owners of the two biggest yards there. Is this person an established hulker with an exsisting license? I have a hard time believing the city of Kent will authorize another one to open considering how hard they have been trying to get them out for the last decade or so. Green River's old yard is vacant and the best of my knowledge will remain that way. Astro's old yard is currently occupied and I do not know the owners but I believe one of the brothers from Green river is there. They were never really too interested in the Subaru side of things. So, what do you actually know about this scenerio? Is this speculation or inside info? I will be down there today dropping off some scrap and will have to do some digging around.

It should fit with a true 4" kit. Only way to be sure is... ...to do it.

Very nice Glenn. I am jealous as mine is broken right now.

Very professional of both of you. Your points are the basics of it as well. That was where my long-winded post was trying to go. I believe that would be similar to PK's response as well.

Cheap and inexpensive are contradicitions of terms. Cheap will never remain inexpensive. I have built my own design. I have ran PK/BYB lifts and I have also co-built and designed my own transfercase/solid rear axle lift. I have some experience to back my opinions. Scrap, you know the ease of building your own is slightly misquoted. Who built your strut extensions and why? Building your own lift is easy for everything but the strut extensions. These have to be correct or the camber will be off and you'll eat tires and front axles. Even my first lift had some camber issues. It did however last for almost 5 yrs without being altered or modified. PK/BYB, this is the design that migrated across the big pond from Australia. It has been in use for about 20yrs now. Minor modifications have been made over the yrs but it is essentially the same kit that has to be nearing one million miles travelled(combined of course). AA, the new kids on the block, deserve credit for perseverance for sure. Their lifts have gone through some changes in the short time they have been here. They have listened to input, both positive and negative, and made changes accordingly. They have jumped in with both feet on a lot of Subaru accessories. But, they are finding what most people already knew. It is a very limited market which they saturated far too quickly. When are you cutting it off again? SJR, has taken an entirely different approach to lifts. Same basic theory but a new twist to things. He uses cast aluminum instead of square tube steel or aluminum block. Still too new for evaluation of longevity but they seem to be holding up. Why am I doing this you ask? Let me tell you why. If you sit back and listen to everyone carrying on about who is better and so on you'll never make a decision. All 3 are west coast manufactured. All three will stand behind their products. All three will sell you something that will work. You will have to do your own research and come to your own conclusions on this one. It is your money btw and needs to be a decision you are comfortable with.

NIce pics. Just so everyone knows, it was me who broke Turbones axle. I was driving and doing some crawly stuff. It didn't takle much to snap it as I think it was fatigued already. Finished the "hobbit trail" in 3 wheel drive. BTW, Rob, come over and we'll see what I got left in the pile.

Loosen the bolt on the upper trans mount(dog bone).

The engine I used was supposed to be from a '96 OBW. Dual port and all. I can't answer the question on the head. Use your intake and wiring. Swap over the injectors from the 2.2 into your intake manifold. Make sure to loosen the dog bone mount when you reinstalled the new engine. It will drop right in. If you have access to the 2.2 exhaust use it all. The mid and exhaust pipes are smaller diameter on the 1.8. Good luck.

Might find it neccessary to utilize jackstands, spanners and sockets for this one!

Say hi for me as well. Graveyard and social events don't mix well.

If I thought you to be an expert I would not have replied. Brakes are a very sensitive repair. Make a mistake and someone can get hurt or worse. It should be a requirement to bleed at the wheels as well. Any time you open a brake line it should be bled at the wheels.

If I thought you were an expert at this I wouldn't have posted. Basic bleeding procedures should be know if you are replacing the hydraulic parts in your brake system. If you make mistakes with it people can be hurt or even worst.

Many people have come to me asking the same question. I have given them all the same answer. As the car sits right now you know what is going to bend/break. Once you start "beefing" things up you know do not know where the break/bending points will be. Much easier to carry a couple of radius rods and to replace them on the trail then to try and carry an entire front end. When I moved the front end forward 2 1/2" on my Brat I had to stretch the rods. I sleeved them and when I hit something hard enough to bend something it moved the rod pocket instead of bending the rod. Much more work involved in that repair. If you can not drive through obstacles without hammering it maybe you should find different places to go. We drive through heavily rocked trails and don't seem to have the damage you have from sand and mud.

Not much for the average Subaru owner. There are vendor and private party booths with new and used parts for sale. Occasionally there will be a set of jump seats for sale. Usually a good price on winches and batteries and other offroad supplies.

Power bleeder= air or electricity powered.