Qman

I say don't listen to the nay sayers. Do what you want to do. If you can build it go for it. It would definitely be an original concept.

What pot are you trying to stir now?

Bennie, I have wheeled with Brian. He does just fine. But yes, he does ask a lot of his rig. We all do here. We have some of the harshest terrain and widest variety of terrain you will find anywhere. Desert, mountain, swamp, snow, mud are obsticales we find in an average day not differring seasons. But, as you noted, we that no lopnger wheel Subarus have moved to the next level and beyond. The Subarus can't do it. When you add solid axles, transfer cases and different motors you are also leaving the normal Subaru. Soon you will find the limits yourself. Well, if you are driven to more difficult terrain and obstacles anyway. And, the BYB can be found here, message board, http://ausubaru.com/ www.hatchpatrol.com Ken

91 Loyale, You were about 5+ yrs after the first lifted BRAT on the east coast. Which I believe had the first BYB kit. I believe Mike had the 2nd one. Your Tacoma doesn't count as an out of the box wheeler. Sorry, just doesn't. While capable, you already described it's faults. Having spares is what it is all about with these little "cars". I still have spares that I will never use. One day I will let them go to someone who'll need them. As far as taking offense, good, let it motivate you. Out do us. I love seeing the new people coming up with ideas. Go out and promote our brand. Prove to the world, again, that you deserve to be there.

While I do not totally disagree with you. I think it may be a mute point. When it comes to building an offroad rig either you build something capable or you do it on the cheap and repair what breaks. Axles are cheap. They are easy to remove/install in a lifted rig. I pushed mine as far or further than just about anyone here. It still wasn't enough. I used a solid axle and other things began to break. They are capable little rigs and can keep up with most stock rigs on the trail. But, that is just what they are. They are not rock crawlers. Nor will they ever be. No clearance with out a complete sub-frame. No gears without modifying other components to handle the increased strain. And, they still wont follow a stock toyota truck with a lock-rite in the rear. Before any of you "new" people decide to chime in remember. or learn, this... the Hatch Patrol went where no one else went with these. BYB admitted we took it further than they ever could have. So, when we speak about the capability of a Subaru, we are doing so from an experienced position. Trust me when we say we have thought of practically every possible mod you could do. And even a few that could not be done. Don't stop trying to keep up. But, don't get your feelings hurt when you can't. We don't get upset when we can't follow rock buggies.

I am going to put this to you real simple and easy to understand. Come in here stirring the pot with no other reason and I will personally delete your posts... every time! Last warning.

While the axle joint is a good idea. It would have to be improved to make it work off road. The stresses offroad are far greater than on road. Iwould have blown it to pieces.

So, you do not want or need a locker... then why are you trolling this thread again? If you have all these ideas then by all means step up and do them. Do not call out people, calling them lazy and such. If you have nothing to offer then move on out of this thread.

My crew and I will be running service in South Bend and Tahola again this year.

Sure, if the belt lasted 10K, not 100 miles and 30 miles. And, his problem is related to the drivers side as well.

Wow, not many then. Check pulleys for damage and sharp edges or burrs that come into contact with the belts.

Just a heads up... I see a couple potential problems for you down the road. The angle on the accelerator cable is too extreme and will eat through the sheething. Also, you will want to install a return spring to avoid issues with that later.

Play in the oil pump shaft. Idlers that are seizing or dragging. A camshaft will not seize and release. How many miles are you getting between failures? Have you checked the crank as well? Are you feeling any type of vibration or wobble while driving?

Sounds like ground problems. Sounds like they removed a ground or two. Check all ground locations for good connections and clean grounds.

If it shorted and got as hot as you described in the other thread then you probably blew a fusible link. edit, I am merging the two threads to help keep the info relevant

That is sort of like being mad at your shoe for the laces becoming untied...

Thanks man, saved me a bunch of typing.

False information. Opinion with nothing to back it up. OEM is not manufactured by the automaker. They have failure rates as well. Usually, you will find that it is a diode that fails. That is why the lights on your dash light up telling you of an impending charging system failure. Again, failure is also related to battery failure. Which is a bigger problem than the alternator or regulator. A bad battery will kill an alternator in less time than a system requiring more than the alternator can handle. This out of the box failure you speak of must be simply bad luck for you. As I have not had a problem with an alternator bought from a big box part retailer in 10 yrs. The only problem I usually see is being given the wrong part or not being in stock. I can correct the wrong part issue by knowing what I want/need prior to going in the store. Now, if you'd like to help him solve his drain problem continue to post in this thread with accurate information. Otherwise... well you know the rest.

Funny thought. Didn't the OEM fail first? Diligently keeping the terminals clean on all electrical components and not over-loading the system generally will make it last longer. Bigger stereos, too many lights and such kill more charging systems than leaving the lights on over and over and draining the system.

Oh no, hell must have froze over. Rick and I agreed on two things in one thread!!

And for the record, disabling the air bag violates so many laws I can't begin to state them all. Disabling air bags for race purposes or off-road purposes is about the only acceptable reason for doing so. There are severe penalties for doing this in a passenger vehicle on US highways. Safety equipment is just that, safety equipment. Millions of dollars and hundreds of hours of testing go into these decisions. I understand thinking it would injure a smaller person but they are designed with that in mind.

When did you become such an idiot? Seriously, every post in this thread by you is full of rediculous statements and foolish assumptions.

Hmm, really? Your opinion again does not represent reality Rick. There is a few in Portland and he would gladly give you a ride to change your opinion.

If you have fabrication skills then yes. If you are paying for someone else to do it, probably not. Do you plan to run ford axles? Why not go solid axle if you are going to that extreme?

Yeah Scott, they can use it. And yes, the EJ "flywheel" bolt pattern is the same.