Qman

There are actually a number of correct answers for this. Axle shaft spline length, bearing condition, hub and axle shaft spline condition, and actual torque applied to the axle nut. Axle shaft spline length; There are different length splines depending on where the core axle came from. They all fit, but will not all fit correctly. Bearing condition; The bearings are the biggest contributor to worn/stripped hubs. Before those who say no jump up screaming think about it. When bearings wear the front tires wobble, correct(rear as well for that matter)? Why is this? If the axle held it all tight the bearing would never cause slop to appear, correct? The hub is not designed to bottom out on the splines. That is why they end in a point on the axle and are not square grooves. The bearing takes up the slack. If the bearing is not adequately greased or is starting to fail it will continue to loosen until it finally does bottom out on the axle. Then, the wear to the shaft and hub begins. Hub and axle shaft spline condition; This is directly related to all of the above. Also, hubs and shafts that are exposed to alot of the elements, snow, mud, rain, and overall dirty conditions will also wear out sooner than those that are not. Actual torque applied to the axle nut; I believe that the torque requirement for axle nuts is around 140 ft/lbs. Now how many people just jump on top of their breaker bar and/or extension to get them as tight as they can? What would happen if you used this procedure for head bolts or intake bolts or the front crank bolt? The threads would stretch. As the threads stretch they are no longer able to hold the torque applied and appear to loosen. Draw your own conclusions as I know most will. Bottom line is do the repair correctly or keep doing it over and over again.

Tim, an EA82 turbo and downpipe work real nice on the EA81 turbo's. No fabbing, completely bolt-on!

Well, I am familiar with '80's Subaru's. I have had a few lifted ones as well. There are not any factory adjustments for camber or caster in the front. It will settle in some after a few miles(100 miles or so). The first thing that people tell you is that having your tires like that is going to destroy your tires. What the uninformed fail to recognize is that people generally put an all-terrain truck tire on after lifting. Or at the very least a larger tire/wheel combo. These tires are designed to support alot more weight than they will be on a Subaru. Hence, these tires are also usually stiffer as well. Any tire wear you experience will be from hard cornering that you used to be able to do that you shouldn't do now. You may experience a small amount of tire wear. But, they shouldn't wear out in a couple hundred miles either. I replaced a set of Cooper Discoverers after about 30K miles and they still had wear left. As a matter of fact I know that they got another couple of years out of them as they were still on the lifted Brat in Texas that got rearended. You should alter your driving style somewhat because you didn't build a street racer you are building an off-road rig.

There are only one size rear disc brakes in the GL/Loyale series cars. The rubber O-rings will appear smaller until they are installed. What else doesn't look right? As far as the shipping goes. I recently bought a couple items from outside of the US. Shipping seems a bit high from everywhere in my opinion.

Nissan P/U's use R180's. The R160 LSD's do not work in them. There were not any air lockers, LSD's etc., available for the Nissan.

That is where you secure the T-tops when they are removed from the Brat.

It actually needs to be longer. I have a two piece driveline for a Hatchback for the 5sp conversion. It comes with servicable u-joints and is balanced nicely. It was built by DrivelinesNW. Cost was over $200.00, I'll sell it for $150.00.

Things to check are the vacuum advance unit. The diaphrams go bad. Then the EGR valve. Same issue, bad diaphrams. Then the vacuum leaks need to be repaired, if present. Sometimes the adjustment screw has already been accessed by taking the small block rod out. Can be removed with the carb on but can be a pain to do so. Most of these stumbling issues are related to timing and fuel mixture. Make small adjustments to timing after the other items have been repaired or proven good. You'll find to spot that the car runs best at.

Yeah we get them. Most are pretty rough. Occassionaly you'll find one in decent shape. The Coupe's, Hatches, Brats, Wagons and Sedan's all made there way here. Only a few people have used them for off-road use here.

K, problem has been addressed. Time to move on.

Hydraulics didn't appear until '83 but only in the auto and turbo models. '85 and later all had hydraulic.

Early tech is being looked at. It may be divided into morning and afternoon. More info as it comes in.

If it is 180 degrees out it won't start or even try for that matter. Remove the number one spark plug(passenger front) and bring the engine up to compression stroke. Once you start to feel compression look to your timing marks. Place the timing mark on "0". Now find the number one wire on your distributor cap. Make sure the contact point on the rotor is pointing to theat spot. Adjust as neccessary to get it in the right spot. Wiring for the coil if it doesn't have a plug is black to hot side and yellow to the negative side. Good luck.

That's cool!

Here is the reply regarding tech and such. So, being there early will be a requirement.

Try bbs97 at hotmail.com He hasn't been on here for a while. He pops in from time to time just not frequently.

Some info from Janice D. I sent a reply asking if there would be an afternoon tech/registration similar to ORG. More info at the website she suggested and when she replies.

Check this out! I brought this post back to allow constructive converstions. If it can't be maintained without the post whoring and derogatory comments it will be gone for good! Period and end of conversation!

Sound like it may have a lifter tick and an unadjusted clutch. Get it back to the states and have the above mentioned mechanic check it out. It may just need to have the oil pump gaskets/seals replaced and have the clutch adjusted properly.

For the most part you just described any IFS rig that runs the trail. Except for the camber plates which aren't required by any of them.(including the Subaru)

To answer your question! The Nissan 280z has that type of axle shaft. I looked into using those type of axles a couple of years ago. It won't really give you more travel. It will give you a much stronger axle though! To get more travel will require changing to long travel shocks/struts. You can probably go a few degrees more but not much more. The problem arises as the tire leaves the ground and then the axle runs out to it's limits and then the tire contacts the ground again. That is when most axles break.

I sent an email to Janice regarding schedule and such. I'll add more when I hear back.

Standing in front of the car look down between the radiator and engine. You will see two, flat, black covers on either side of the front of the engine. There should be 4 10mm headed bolts that hold them down. Remove the bolts to access the belts. Beware that some of the bolts may not want to come loose. If this is the case just take a flat bladed screw driver and slip it between the covers and work them out. It will make more sense when you start to remove them.

#1 The plug on the passenger side at the front. #3 The plug on the passenger side at the rear. #2 The plug on the drivers side at the front. #4 The plug on the drivers side at the rear. This is the correct position of the cylinders.

Sounds like a timing belt. Usually if the passenger side belt goes it will still run though. Not very well but it will still fire. Pull the outer covers off to check the belts. If they are OK look for a cracked distributor cap or alot of corrosion between the spark plug wires and the distributor cap.