Qman

Cool. I gave my daugther an '84 GL10 coupe that looked alot like yours. Only difference was the dk grey color and the wheels. It resides in Eastern Washington now.

Nice job. I am considering dynoing the XT6. There is a new dyno down the street.

Thanks Joe, I was going to drop in a surprise you but ran out of time today.

Different looking in person. It sits just right.

Sorry man, wasn't being sarcastic or mean or anything. I was just saying you could have been almost done with it. Sorry you took it that way. The job should only take about an hour to do. Oh, I am sure you can handle it. But have you ever driven a car that the power steering has gone out on?

In the amount of time you have spent on the comp today you probably could have replaced the rack. It will be harder to steer than a non-power stering unit. The fluid also lubricates the rack. Without it can cause nothing but problems.

That can't be a bad thing, can it? The 3" exhaust really has a sound all it's own.

Fun, beware that the tunnels in the 2wd are much narrower than 4wd ones. You will have to beat it to make a 4spD/R fit it. This means you may have to do some cutting to make the 5sp fit.

The only thing worst than way too many miles, in my opinion, is too few miles. You will need to tune it up, complete. Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, PCV valve and ALL filters. Run an oil conditioner/engine cleaner through it. Chances are the seals may be a bit dry in the engine. If you change the oil and add the cleaner run it for the directed time and flush it out. It will require a little more than a case of oil and 3 filters for this process. Then once that is done you will need to drive it. The seals should soften and it should stop smoking. Good luck Connie.

Hey Rich, you gonna show up at Hillsboro? I have something for you!

This is the red XT6 that was for sale a little while ago. I swapped all my parts over to this body. The motor runs out very well with the new cams. I still need to fine tune it but it flat hauls. Definitely will need to upgrade to better tires. The 3" exhaust howls when the go pedal hits the floor. We are prepping it for the rallyx's in Oregon. The interior is stripped from behind the front seats. I installed Legacy front suspension with new GR2's front and rear. It's got Legacy front brakes and Toyota Supra rear disc brakes. Can you say rear e-brake?!?! Still have a few little things to do but I am happy with it so far. Need to give it a bath then pics will follow.

Not bad considering I saw it before. Might be time to do the before and after pics. When you were putting it back together(the first time).

The only way to know is to place it in the grill and check fitment. I don't believe it has been done before.

Easy Tex...

You're right Eric. Looks as good or better than any lifted EA82 wagon. Now we just need to swap in a D/R.

If it is indeed a true '86. Then someone added the seats and may have cutout the holes themselves. The side steps were there for access to the bed for rear seat use. When they discontinued the seats they eliminated the steps. There are access panels behind/above the holes. The panels are in the bed and are removable with phillips head screws. Removing the panels will allow you to see inside and wether or not the reenforcements are there.

Or... you could go down there in person so you know what is going on.

I haven't seen/heard anything different to date.

ORG SCCA - RallyCross #2 Date : 15 May 2005 Category : RallyCross <LI>Event details: Morning Session: G2, G5, Production and Truck/SUV classes. Tech Inspection/Registration: 8:00-9:00. Driver’s Meeting: 09:15. First Car out: 09:30. Afternoon Session: Production GT and Open classes. Tech Inspection/Registration: 12:30-1:00. Driver’s Meeting: 1:45. First Car out: 2 PM Cost: $25 for SCCA Members, $30 for non-SCCA members. To be held at the Washington County Fairgrounds (across from the Hillsboro Airport.)

I can also vouch for Steve at Pacific. He is a good guy and knows his stuff. But a 75 mile trip with an ailing car doesn't sound pleasant.

Actually, they do crack just like eggs. This will save the diff in most cases but not all.

Try cut and paste. Take the URL and paste it into your browser's address slot. I have the same problem, I believe their host doesn't allow linking.

If getting spark and now running the amplifier should be OK. The coolant sensor(code 21) Is indeed on the block behind/under the intake manifold. There should be two sensors around the same area. A knock sensor and the temp sensor. The knock sensor is the one closest to the bell housing. I have seen all sorts of symptoms caused and cured by the temp sensor. Surging, misfires, high/low idles, etc. I understand Gary's frustration about dirty and corroded contacts. But to say not to replace cause it will come back is sort of like saying if you add gas you'll have to add more later. Depending on your location corrosion and such are just a part of life. You deal with it and move on. Good luck.