Qman

Search won't find much of anything. There isn't much published on this as it is a fit and fair job. There isn't one precise way to do it. Basically, you have to slide the rear axle assy under the car and see where everything sits. Then, get creative on mounts. It will get tricky when trying to match front suspension height. Are you doing this in conjunction with a transfer case mod? You will need to experiment with blocks and plates to find the right combination to get the height right. Sorry, I can't be much more helpful but it is a one off mod.

I don't remember any courses like that last year. The figure eight was in the lower right.(Furthest point away from the hotel) Upper left was braking section. Middle bottom left was sweeping right hander. Middle right was skid pad. Upper right was slalom. I think it has to be from at least 2002 or 2003.

17mm nuts hold it to the diff(mustache) bar. Roll pins for the axles. Pry bar or heat may be neccessary to remove them. DO NOT remove the four nuts on the underside of the diff near the front. Instead, remove the nut and bolt from the top. Tools needed, 12mm wrench(driveline bolts) 17mm socket-1/2 drive 1/2 drive rachet 3/16 or equivalent punch hammer Large flat screw driver or small heel bar(to assist with holding the driveline still) 19mm or 21mm wrench(bring both, can't remember which for the upper bolt) 17mm wrench(upper nut) If all else fails on the rear axles and they do not come off. You can remove the boot clamp and pull back the boot. With a small flat tip screw driver you can remove the circlip the keeps the joint together and leave the cup on the diff. It is sometimes easier to deal with these at home. Good luck!

Happy B-Day buddy!! Wish you were up here to do it right. Avoid the MP's.

Cool, I think there were about 6 gen1's last year. Not all Brat's though.

RIght now this is registration for the show. We are working with the fairgrounds to get preregistration for camping as well. This is seperate from the show.

They are building fire pits this summer. Hopefully, they will be completed so that we can have a "community" fire on Saturday night.

With 200 campsites and 60 or so RV sites I hope so!!

Periodically, my sunroof doesn't want to close. If i let it sit for a few minutes/hours it will operate fine. I think mine is in the switch connections or the switch itself. The ground wire may have fallen off or become disconnected. Do you have a test light? Check the socket for power.

FUEL FILTERS, everyone forgets these. They inhibit power more than anything else.

The price for Brats has been going up and up. There's a cherry one on EBay right now that is over $6000. $2500.00 may be a bit high but it also has had some work done to it that has to be considered in the price as well. The high idle doesn't sound too out of whack. Have the fuel filters been changed? Engine bay and under car in front of fuel tank. Does the tach bounce at idle? There are lots of things that can cause poor performance. Even vacuum leaks can inhibit power.

Karin, some do and some don't. Sounds like you have the older style gen2 wheels. They should take the plastic rings.

Interesting for sure. I used Prolong in both of mine. Do not have anything to compare them to as I did this first thing.

The mechanical fan is hitting the shroud and radiator, correct? For this to happen the engine has to move. My guess is that you stuffed mud/debris between the cross member and engine. That would also explain the inability to shift in and out of 4WD. The knocking could be that the oil pan has pushed up against the pick up tube for the oil pump and you are not getting adequate oil flow. These are speculations at this point. Check it out and let us know.

That's right. The website is up and running. We even got a domain that's easy to remember. www.westcoastsubarushow.com I chose the logo for the site. However, I would like permission to use any and all logo's submitted. They all may have a special place in some part of the show. A special thanks goes out to SubaruTex. He did a great job getting this together for us on short notice!

For the record. The RX,GL, etc do not have a rear strut. They have rear coil overs. This is a mute point but the shock is available in many aftermarket forms. The problem is going to be that the dampening rate will be the standard or a split between the two. I would guess that the KYB's would have the best dampening. The biggest thing to help rear handling will be new springs. I have a local spring shop that should be able to make them. I am going to see if they can make lowering and raising springs with the correct rates.

First use the OEM o-ring. Second, when applying any type of sealant to the cam case make sure you clean out the seal journal. I have used all kinds of seal for this job. All seem to work OK. Just have to clean out that little groove.

Does the sound occur when the steering wheel is turning or when the wheels are turning?

Check the routing. I don't recall that being a problem in the past. As far as being off what tires are you running? The only way the change that is to go to a speedo shop. I don't know if they can recalibrate it or not.

Cool, see what we can do Bringing the '78 is a great idea. Considering the 4th previous owner is who started the WCSS. Hey Brad, off the topic, I understand you met a friend of mine a while back. Stopped to ask about buying the rusty parts Brat.

The only way to know for sure is to test fit a set. Brian, your wagon is an EA81 and his is an EA82. They have a huge difference in the wheel wells. What doesn't fit yours will probably fit his.

Yep!

Metric to SAE equivalents Grade 8 = Grade 5 Grade 10 = Grade 8 The longer bolts will be almost impossible to find in a fine thread. When I built the lift for my maroon hatch I ended up using a course thread bolt. The course threaded bolt uses a slightly larger hole then the fine threaded one. Just have to rethread the hole. I will hold fine.

That's right Brad. But I figured he'd know that already. It won't matter though with the fit of the door on the car.

The only difference between the two will be the mirrors. The trim may be a little different as well. Pretty basic swap. Remove bolts swap doors, reinstall bolts and align the door by loosening the bolts slightly and adjusting to fit.