Qman

No problem Garner, I can appreciate hard work but just not my thing. Yeah, you don't want to go there!

If it's in a Legacy it is a VLSD.

What is the rear diff out of? Is it a LSD or VLSD?

If there is still material on the clutches you can flip the conical washers. It provides way more holding power.

I used a drill stop that fit into the lug hole perfectly. Marked the holes and drilled away. Make sure you use a new bit and use cutting oil so that the holes will stay tight. Otherwise, the studs will be loose.

I'll anticipate my pink slip after that excellent vote of confidence. But seriously. Just being on a forum for a long time does not make me infallable(sp). It's a good thing to question things just do be pissy about it when you do. That's how things progess. If we always excepted things we wouldn't have lifted 'roos and EJ conversions and even lowered Brats.(no offense but that one still makes me shudder) I hope to learn one new thing everyday. It helps keep you honest.

The clutch discs should be the same thickness. As noted the splines are different. The pressure plates are the same diameter but not the same depth. You can have you EA81 flywheel cut to EA82 specs and run an EA82 pressure plate with an EA81 disc. The only problem is going to be the throw out bearing. I am not 100% sure if you can use the EA81 TO with the EA82 PP. Your 4sp works well but having a 5sp behind it is SO much better and not that big of a deal to install.

Yes, 5sp D/R with lightened EA82 flywheel. XT6 clutch kit. I don't think I have ever smoked this clutch with a full season of RallyX + daily driver duties to boot. To address your problem. The more I think about it it does sound like a pressure plate issue. It holds good at launch but fails/slips at high speed only. Possibly weak springs or fingers. Do you have a return spring on your release fork?

For the record. I don't get offended over this stuff. I built this motor to aviation spec for the 150hp version. After talking with various engine builders and cam builders and going over the specs they decided I should easily be able to pull these numbers considering that my fuel system is bigger and my exhaust is better. I never stated whp BTW. The one thing I see overlooked here more than anything on mods is that people try to do one mod at a time. However, to get a correct mod you have to do them in a series of upgrades. For example, it does no good to add a bigger cam without a bigger fuel supply. Or stuffing big cams and more fuel without allowing for bigger exhaust to allow it to breathe. One will not work without the others. :-\ You believe what your breathing is air don't you? Ever see it?

I am not a common Subaru nut. BTW, I have covered this many times. Whether you believe or not is up to you. Let's just say that a friend of mine owns a 400hp WRX and was very impressed with my Brat. As I have already told many people who have been nice enough to let me know there are non-believers and naysayers. I am doing a readers rides article and you can see it then. Who knows, I might even find a dyno by then to back it up. A little history for the skeptical. I have been around racing, hot rods and high horsepower motors since I was born. There are lots of ways to extract power without losing reliability. Does seem funny though that most believe Wills claims to over 200hp in his wagon but question my numbers. Not really any difference when you think about it. He started with 113-115hp depending on the info you have. I started out with 73hp. Oh well, all have their own opinions as it should be. See ya'

Sounds like you're doing Ok Pat. A sense of humor is a good thing on endeavours like this. Missed all of the last hints. Bummer, but I didn't have a map to check either. Going off of memory. Oh wait, that isn't a good idea sometimes. Anyway, keep it safe and see you when you get back.

The last word I had(from a good source) said that they were going a different direction. More of associations than putting them on.

That's the EA82 parts book right? How much shipped to me at 98390?

I did it with a Nardi wheel in my Brat. It required removing the hubs from both wheels and welding the old hub into the new wheel. There are adapters available but they are very hard to find.

John, I am sending you a PDF file. It is from the XT/6 manual and should be the right numbers and specifications. Ken

I don't know if the rebuild kit exsists anymore. I don't have a part number but I do remember someone saying that you couldn't get the clutch packs anymore.

I'll see if I can come up with more.

Hey Ken, call John in Eugene. He has done a couple of them and can probably give you most of the details you need. You can email him at mudrat79@hotmail.com as well. Ken

Pretty much if you have some experience in changing them. The only time you'll have a problem with an axle is if you free rev a wheel and drop it on to the ground. Then the axle can let go. If you finess things you minimize the chances of that.

I'll get ahold of a guy I know and let you know. Send me your number so I can get a hold of you. Ken

These are pretty stout little machines. They have proven what they can do in stock form over and over again. Considering what you use your Brat for the only thing that will help, to a point that you would really notice, would be some 80 series tires. They will give you slightly more clearance. But most importantly they will give a little more cushion between the road and your suspension. And maybe adjusting the factory suspension adjustments up for a stiffer ride and slightly more clearance. Chances are the only way you will get suspension damage is if you slip off the road surface into a ditch or something. At that point, your going to get damage. Stiffening your control arms and radius rods will only move the damage to someplace you're not prepared to repair. Think of the control arm and radius rods as fuses. They are relatively easy to replace on the trail/road. They don't take up much space under a seat or in the bed. And they won't cause irrepairable damage to something else. I have replaced a few on the trail(both mine and others) and I would rather replace one or both of them rather than trying to repair a broken bolt from a body mount or worse. Obviously, this is my opinion and what you decide to do is your decision. Good luck.

The pick up coil is just that. These do not have points. You can get a used pick up or distributor from the junk yard and that would probably solve your problems. If you want a new/different vehicle you need to weigh what you do with your vehicle. Then give us a few details and we can try to help you.

Been thinking that I haven't heard from you in a while. Where you been?

You need the E10 torx socket. Here are the results from the search "E10 torx" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=57837

I am working on a readers rides article. All/most of the info will be there when I complete it.