Qman

That's the last two and... I do know some of my state history.

No paper clips!!!!! Just plug it in to the matching green connector. Couldn't tell you what the common codes are for an Australian Subaru as many things are different from ours.

It is generally near the computer. As was pointed out in your other post it will probably be up under the dash(computer for RH drive) and green in color(plug). It is a single wire in and out. Plug it in and look for the flashes from your computer LED.

Good to meet Pat face to face. We managed a little repack and remedied a couple small issues. The trip east should be "smooth" from here any way. Good luck and safe Journeys Pat.

As you are from Wisconsin USA the comp(if equipped) will be located under the steering column. Remove the plastic cover from under the dash under the column. Look up and if you have one you'll see it. Yes, EA81 is your motor. Look behind and to the left of the distributor. It will be stamped in the block.

The IRS isn't futile. But...you will never get the travel out of it that you will get from solid and leafs or link type suspension. As far as beefing things up I have some theories. The nice thing about the Subes is you know what the weak points are. Strut rods and lower control arms. Front and rear axles are also a weaker link. But, the thing to consider is that these sort of act like fuses if you will. You know in advance these could break. You can bring a spare with you and be back on the road in 30 minutes or less. Now if you start cryogenic treatments on CV/DOJ cups where is that fuse going to move to? Improvements are good but it is of great benefit to know what will break instead of not knowing and having to leave your rig on the trail. There are many things that can be improved and should be at some point. It will require some heavy research to make sure you do not cause other damage that can't be fixed so easily. Just food for thought.

Sorry, but, I call BS on that one. We do not have the benefit of buying big ticket items off the shelf for these vehicles. Fabrication, creativity and research are the best options. You won't find that kind ofinvestment in a Suabru offroader. And, if you do that person should probably be commited. You also will be hard pressed to find anyone who will give aftermarket support for a vehicle that is not mainstream. Given timethat may change. But it took 30+yrs for the support network for Jeeps to take form. I think we've come along way in under 5yrs. No offense meant or taken.

Have you seen my Brat? Pics or mod list or anything? Practical... I have been called alot of things, some are definitely not mentionable here. I have more time and money invested into my rig than I care to add up. However, I think realistic may be a better description. I do indeed voice my opinions but I will not force someone to follow my lead. If a locker was available for my nissan rearend I would already have one. But alas, there isn't one for the older nissan rearends. Most, but not all of the enthusiasts here are budgeted low for their hobby. These are not high dollar rigs for a number of reasons. Number one being they are more or less disposable. You won't get a bunch of people to buy into an unknown price or even a guesstimate. Besides, the opne thing most people keep forgetting is that the diff isn't the weak link here. The axles are and by adding the extra stress you will hammer them even more. I am not saying don't do it. If you can manage it and get something that proves reliable and affordable for the common Sube owner then you will probably have a market. BTW, here's a practical list of mods and accessories on my rig. 10"+ lift 31/10.50R15 SSR's Transfer case mod Solid rear end with leaf springs(4.37 final ratio)(with estimated 20" combined travel) 6 lug conversion in the front On-board welder Front and rear mounts for winch Dual batteries Custom roll bar and bumpers(made by me) Front end relocated forward 2 1/2" 120hp EA81 motor with 5 sp D/R(torque cams and Weber) Currently researching new front suspension to get more travel. Have it about 90% worked out. As you can see, pushing the envelope is not something new to me. Don't give up on it but don't be surprised if not many jump at the chance until it is proven and a solid price is established.

The one piece radio boxes cam in 2wd's.

Yep! I'll call now.

No. There are high and low consoles though. The high ones have a hinged top that doubles as an arm rest.

I'll work on John(Mudrat) some more. I'll try to get him to come here. He is under time constraints as well so meeting him elsewhere may work better.

The only problem with injection is that you are now tied to the computer and sensors. Which HATE water period. Ross from Idaho came to the Hatch Patrol camp out a few years ago and got his stuff wet. Didn't run worth a crap the rest of the weekend.Otherwise, ijection doesn't notice camber on trails. You can practically turn them upside down and they'll still run.

Nothing better than a Weber. Tuning is crucial though. Installing a new one os the best bet but costly. I would never go back to a Hitachi after putting a Weber on. In "Beauty" I get 20 mpg all the time. Now, I know people are saying that is kind of low. However, that is with a motor running near 150hp and driving it like it does. So, 20 is good!! One of the biggest issues with Webers is that to get the optimum performance they can not be the only mod. Slightly bigger exhaust is a must. Not 3" exhaust but a good 2" system is a huge improvement over the stock stuff. Stock Subaru exhaust is a double wall system that measures about 1 3/4" inside.

As long as both wheels common to the differential are on the ground they both get power. Until one starts to slip then ALL the power goes to the free wheel.

I am not sure yet how early this will be going on. Alot depends on the upcoming weather event. Corky, call me tonight before bedtime. That way I'll be up when you call.

The TSB is for SPFI cars. I second the OEM PCV replacement. My Bro-in-laws '86 just started doing the same thing. Told him the same thing. Ken

Right on the spot Noah. Thanks, saved me a bunch of typing.

The operation label on the console tells you to use the clutch. The rear axle and diff have very little to do with your problem. The rear diff is open so the axles have no issues with the transfer part of your trans. There is not a center diff on this system. The system has no way to relieve bind up other than tire slippage from terrain. You are indeed experiencing bind. The info you got to back up will 99% of the time remedy the problem. Also, never use it on a surface that does not allow tire slippage, ie, tarmac, street, concrete, etc. The problem lies in one or more of the following issues. Using the 4WD system in/on the wrong situations and surfaces. Incorrectly matched tires, diferent size/diameter. This system is very sensitive to small differences in tire size. Make sure they are the same brand, size and wear is even.

Here's a pic of the long bed Brat.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/brats/miscphotos/90-finland-longbed1.jpg The wheel base is the same. The only difference is the longer bed. I didn't know they were available outside of Europe.

Northwet is considering coming by my place on his way east. Who can be here early Saturday for a quick meet and greet? Then we can play the rest of the day by ear. Ken

No bling on a HP rig!! Check with 4wheel parts. Coopers are OK. I ran them on my Hatch but as soon as I bolted TSL's on it there was no going back. The SSR's are the best all round tire for mud, rocks and whatever else you'll find in Spokie.

Tell that to the guy who has won production class two years in a row in Oregon Region rallyX. Watching it run has given me a new appreciation for them. Quick and agile and the abilty to rev to 10K is impressive.

Am I the only one who sees an old Saab when I look at that grill?

We also have the hand held wire feed attachment. This is a pic that shows the welder(blue box), dual battery set up, under hood lights, relay block for the off-road lights and the winch wiring from the drycell battery.