Qman

That's rough. Could you point us to the Subaru content?

Hard to say by the cut away pic they use. I don't have the part number handy but what you are looking for is an E10 torx socket. The "E" denotes the female torx. Make sure to get the 1/4" deep socket. Snap-on or Mac are the best bets to get the right one. Using a 5/16" socket has worked but usually results in a broken socket or rounding the edges of the bolt. Using an impact driver is usually the best way to get them off. The kind you hit with a hammer not the air kind.

Without upgrading the PP you will still experience slippage.

Clutches should be fine. Grinding can be done with an electric drill motor and grinding tool. Stones have even been used. Do you have access to the LSD case? It will let you see how much needs to be ground to fit the LSD unit in the 3.90 case. Most importantly, follow the info in the USRM. Trust me, it will answer your questions.

Brakes must match the knuckle. I have an XT6 that someone swapped the Legacy front suspension from. The XT6 caliper will not bolt to it as it is too small. This may be due to the donor being a turbo. The turbo's definitely have bigger front brakes. I just picked up Chuck Sands monster XT6. It had a couple of mishaps and isn't quite shaped like an XT6 anymore.(read as multiple rollovers) But it will have the front brake stuff to correct the issues I am having with my XT6. Bonus is that it also came with the engine. Cams and custom air intake will make open class rallyX a little more competitive. Roll bar and harnesses for safety. The air struts are good for someone who may want them.

Aarons is Seattle has a couple of XT6's in there parts lot. I would look at the transmission connection to see if it has broken or fallen off.

Jack the entire rear end off the ground and then spin the wheel. If the opposite side spins the same direction it is a limited slip. If it spins the other way it is open.

When dinosaur fuels are no longer available!

That belongs to Subaru7. I came across it while combing through the gallery. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5967 And it is a Hatchback!!

And BTW, these do not affect the air bags. Still function as required.

Nice job, looks like it's meant to be. I know a builder who is doing tube bumpers for those if you are interested. They look real good on the front and improve approach angles dramatically. Here's a pic of one on Rallitek's shop truck. Side shot Underside You'll notice that it has a winch mounted as well. It also has oversized tires but no lift. They are working on a lift kit for it though.

And the way to Crystal goes right past mine and Rob's houses!

That would be a direct bolt in!

Axle, cv joint to be precise!

OMG!! That gives a whole new definition to a floater!! He made two mistakes. One, only as a last resort do you press the clutch pedal. Instant wet clutch. Two, once you commit, hit it!

Welcome, being as it's Christmas eve and all you may want to give more than 22 minutes for an answer. We have an offroad section for questions about lifts and tires and such. There is a FAQ post at the top as well. The '85 505 will have 14" and 15" alloys available.

Cool Nick, the last one doesn't work though.

Good calll Mick, I was thinking the same thing. Pat, my email is in my profile. Could definitely be worth some of your gas money!

Jason is off until next week. Matt can help you but Jason will be back on Monday.

O2 sensor is very probable. Did you tune it up with new filters, PCV valve and plugs and wires? A bad temp sensor can also cause rich running problems as the comp thinks it is always cold or warm depending on the readings or misreadings the comp is getting. I suggest the guy in S. Seattle or Brian at Brian's Subaru in Burien. Either will cost you some more money but it will be done right.

Lack of water loss would indicate the smoke is more oil than anything else. Probably valve seals. Water dripping from the tail pipe is also OK. As stated above just a product of the combustion process. As far as the Weber install. I am not sure what the problem is. The only vehicle that has had water issues from the heat tube is the EA82. The EA81's do not have an issue with leakage at this point. I have installed many Webers on my own and other people's vehicles(read, EA81's and one EA82) and have never had a problem with leaking. Good gaskets and a proper torque will eliminate this problem.

To be completely accurate, John's adapter will allow the use of a D/R 5sp behind an EJ motor in any vehicle.

Which gears are you refering to?

Yes, you are gringing relief to allow the LSD unit to go into the non-LSD housing. The units are shaped different. Blue locktite will work fine.

You might want to try replacing the PCV valve with an OEM one and see if that helps. It may not do a thing but you never know unless you try.