Qman

Ask Corky, he may have gotten a couple of sets when he did his.

I wondered how you did that. I saw the centers when you posted the same pic in the lights post a little while back. Good job!

The Weber s/b every carbed Subaru owner's 1st upgrade. It will give noticable improvements. As Arch said though, it won't be neck snapping. And for the record, it has an integral transfer for hi/lo/fwd. All part of the transaxle.

Actually, adjustables are available. I just picked up A?C delco parts off of EBay that are fully adjustable and gas charged. I'll post a part # later.

It is time to prepare for this. The run will be to Greenwater, east of Enumclaw, on either Nov 27th(Thanksgiving weekend) or the following weekend of Dec 4th. A tree permit is required to get a tree.($10.00) No other pass is required to access Greenwater. Please let me know ASAP if you need a permit as they have a limited number. Also post here if you plan to go. There will be a large gathering area where we can set up canopies/pop ups and such. It is BYOFood/Beverages. Any and all vehicles and people are welcome. We had Subaru's, Dodges, Jeep's, Toyota's and Suzuki's before. A stock Sube will get to the gathering area. Plan for cold weather. Last year we had to travel through snow and ice covered roads to reach our destination. It will be a fun family environment so bring the entire family. Ken

Rear solid axle and transfer case.

Oh yeah, it's been done. My buddy Robert, Lumpycam, has done it twice. Once in the original "Unhatched" and in his current mudracer. Still running independent suspension along with thetransfer case mod. Robert was the first to do the transfer case. I can't find the picson Mikes XT6 with solid axles front and rear.

And in record time the results have been posted. http://www.oregonrally.com/content/results/rallyx/Nov_16th_by_run_group.pdf

Clutch cable could be coming apart inside the sheath or is just dry. A dry pivot on the clutch pedal can cause the same issue. I have not experienced a sticky/stiff clutch if the release fork was dry.

1) If the strut tops are starting to fail they will make noise and cause significant drag on the steering. 2) 4WD doesn't like pavement as others have already stated. To release the bind you must drive in reverse in a straight line to releave the binding. Tires with equal tread is also very important. Make sure you tires are all in the same condition and size.

Great! Enjoy it!! On a side note. I have bought a couple with that same bad tranny.

There are quite a few. However, I don't believe any were 4WD.

You'll want a Legacy. Go test drive a couple at used car lots to decide which year fits best. My wife drove an '84 GL for years and refused to give it up until I brought a '93 Legacy wagon home and handed her the keys. She'll never go back!

FUEL FILTERS!! Replace both of them and the problem should go away. One is in the engine compartment and the other is under the Brat near the tank on the drivers side I believe.

I should also note that most US spec vehicles are prewired for the switch and actuator.

Some info regarding the '85's. They were the only year that the non-turbo MPFI was offered in anything but the XT. I have seen it in a GL10 2wd sedan w/ auto trans and a couple of cars in the JY. I believe Skip is correct about the wagon though. The 4wd s/b a carb. I would also agree with either the timing belts(possible tensioner causing the squeel) or a plugging cat. Fuel filters would/should do it all the time and would eventually allow the vehicle up to speed if driven on a flat surface. The filters will indeed cause similar issues but will start out as a bucking sensation when applying load. They will progressively get worse from that point on.

It was an option on most early EA82 cars. The later ones got it standard. There is a button the inserts into the dash also.

I would like to point out that your RX is a Fulltime 4WD and that it requires both front and rear tires to be the same diameter. If they are not you will eventually have drivetrain binding and will probably devoure a tranny.

I don't believe they were ever released in the states. I have not seen them here anyway. Might be a Sanbar van from Japan though.

Very true TIm, but there is an option. If you carry a load most of the time you can adjust the tension of the torsion bar to max. Or you can also reclock the torsion bar. The down side to this is the it will cause the rear end to be much higher when it is empty. I ran a clocked torsion bar for years in the Hatch and the Brat with out trimming the rear wheel wells. Try taking off the rear mud flaps to verify if they are rubbing on them and not the fender.

The switch could add to your problem. Find a good coil and test it. Almost any 12 volt coil will work for test purposes. The switch could have a bad connection or bad contacts in the plug. Look for a pink connector about 5 wires coming from it. Follow that up to the ignition switch and make sure the switch looks good and is solidly screwed to the back of the key switch.

Fuse? Did you check them before you started replacing parts? A weak coil can also be the culprit.

For which vehicle?

Just outbid me and others on some Brat tail lights too. Busy guy/gal.

It will bolt right into a gen3 vehicle. I had to modify it to fit the Brat. Basically, I cut out the hubs from the Nardi and the stock wheel. Then rewelded the stock hub onto the Nardi. It required me to enlarge the hole to fit it though. Arch, I plan to cut it down later. (I am actually going to try and fab a short shifter for the Brat) It is about the same height as stock just looks and feels better.