Qman

Don't sweat it too much. They come and they go. That's part of the beauty of being a Subaru nut is that many people just have them for transportation and don't know that they really will do 200K, 300K and more. More will come and maybe in even better shape and requiring less work.

I picked up a Nardi wheel and shifter from another board member and was going to install them into the kids 3dr but decided I'd like them more. I believe these came from a JDM Impreza. Full sized images can be seen in my gallery, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5

Tex, email me details for what you think we'll need for space.

I agree, 8 spoke alloys(look at the center caps). They are only available in 13". If you are looking to go bigger diameter those aren't the answer. Scorpion in Australia or Peugeot are about the only option. Unless you can happen across some of the original 14" Jackmans that were sold in the late 70's to early 80's.

Could be a few things. Loose hose in the intake system. Plugged cat. Could also be in limp home mode. Are you getting a check engine light or any codes? Maybe other things as well.

Tex already has the keys. Basically the only set.

Fun little adventure. I hope you gave the dog a treat after that.

Yes, I remember that very well. lol

The blue beast belongs to a friend of mine named Tom. He runs Aerofab.com That is mostly a Ford Ranger. It has complete air bag suspension on it. It made very light work of the mud hole the first couple times through. But after the owner decided too many people were making it through he added about 10-15 yards of dirt/mud to the run making the main part of the bog nearly unpassible. Tom got stuck the first time and made it the second. I went in and made it about 2/3 of the way before getting stuck. $10.00 to the owner for the extraction. The second attempt was a success. I made it to about the same place I got stuck the first time and started to bog down. I quickly hit reverse and cleared a bit of the mud and then hit it hard going forward. Much to the surprise of everyone it made it through. After that we went out and killed some pumpkins. Rear wheel drive is great for that sort of thing. There were all sorts of rigs there from Tom's completely radical Ford, a crew cab Ford with at least 48's to stock Dodges and Jeeps and such. It should be open at least one more week. Stock and lifted Subes will have a blast in the pumpkin patch but attempting the mud bog would be suicide for most, if not all. BTW, the reason we were running amock in the pumpkin patch was they had a hay ride there. After all the rain and such the very large John Deere tractor pulling the trailer got stuck then the dozer got stuck trying to pull out the JD. They finally managed to pull them both out with yet a bigger piece of machinery. One of the emplytees stated that he could make it through with his 4X4. The owner said he'd give him $100.00 he couldn't but that if he got stuck he would have to pay $10.00 to get pulled out. The word spread and it was a serious show after that. Unfortunately, I was a bit busy driving and it got a bit too dark to shoot good pics but you'll have to take our word on it.

Yes, a great time rallying around the hills. Many an upset hunter though. Forgot it was still hunting season. Oh well, most of the hunters were too low to find the animals anyway. All was good until I clipped a rock with the driverside front tire. Sidewall gash but was still holding air, just leaking on every revolution. Matt wasn't as lucky though. He caught his drivers side rear on another rock and it instantly went flat. But, we got them fixed(thanks Sam) and off we went. After splitting the crew we were headed home and I went past the local pumpkin patch and saw a few of my trail buddies stomping around in the mud and pumpkins. Well, come to find out there is a huge mud hole in the back of the property and the owner is paying a $100.00 to anyone who can get through under their own power. The only catch is that if you get stuck you have to pay $10.00 to get pulled out. By the time I got back with my Brat the owner had stopped the $100.00 deal so it was just for fun. Still had to pay $10.00 if you got stuck though. Long story short is I paid $10.00 the first run and made it through the second run. Here's what it looked like after being put back onto the trailer.

At the time of this posting I haven't seen a post in the marketplace. What color is the parts donor? Still need that grey front passenger side front fender. Ken

Spokane I can't help you with. But, when you get back to the west side let us know and we'll get you muddy.

There you go.

This shows the factory fog lights and the factory covers. I just mounted them to the bottom of the bumper with a relay and illuminated switch.

Yes, that is a GL. Also has the centerlight and D/R 4WD. I know where one is right now. The people that own it are unsure what they are going to do with it at the moment. They will let me know when they decide.

Is it possible for you to post a pic of your steering wheel? There are many wheels out there and it would help to identify which wheel you have and the procedure for removal.

Definitely vacuum related. Check the vacuum line from the manifold to the passenger side firewall. It will connect to the canister as Caleb stated. Check the line for cracks as well as the canister itself. I have seen the canister themselves crack before.

Most of the parts books call them strut rod bushings.

The difference in the pics is that the one side has the rubber/plastic plug and the other side doesn't. It doesn't affect the integritiy of the strut at all. Good point Miles! A strut that has too much travel or is worn out will allow more stresses on the strut top which could result in failure.

All that needs to be done here is to replace the strut top. This requires a spring compressor and a new or used strut top.

:clap: Nice to see it on the hill. Feels pretty good to finally get it out there I bet!!

Oct 3rd is Hood River rallyx. I also have to pick up the next project while I'm there. Sorry, can't make this one.

To remove the rear seat you have to remove the two screws in the front of the lower seat. They may blend in with the carpet. Now with those out the seat should lift up in the front and lift out. If it doesn't you will find a bracket between the two seats. Take these two bolts out and the seat backs will come out. Then the rest of the lower seat will.

And this one

Or this one...