Qman

Spokane I can't help you with. But, when you get back to the west side let us know and we'll get you muddy.

There you go.

This shows the factory fog lights and the factory covers. I just mounted them to the bottom of the bumper with a relay and illuminated switch.

Yes, that is a GL. Also has the centerlight and D/R 4WD. I know where one is right now. The people that own it are unsure what they are going to do with it at the moment. They will let me know when they decide.

Is it possible for you to post a pic of your steering wheel? There are many wheels out there and it would help to identify which wheel you have and the procedure for removal.

Definitely vacuum related. Check the vacuum line from the manifold to the passenger side firewall. It will connect to the canister as Caleb stated. Check the line for cracks as well as the canister itself. I have seen the canister themselves crack before.

Most of the parts books call them strut rod bushings.

The difference in the pics is that the one side has the rubber/plastic plug and the other side doesn't. It doesn't affect the integritiy of the strut at all. Good point Miles! A strut that has too much travel or is worn out will allow more stresses on the strut top which could result in failure.

All that needs to be done here is to replace the strut top. This requires a spring compressor and a new or used strut top.

:clap: Nice to see it on the hill. Feels pretty good to finally get it out there I bet!!

Oct 3rd is Hood River rallyx. I also have to pick up the next project while I'm there. Sorry, can't make this one.

To remove the rear seat you have to remove the two screws in the front of the lower seat. They may blend in with the carpet. Now with those out the seat should lift up in the front and lift out. If it doesn't you will find a bracket between the two seats. Take these two bolts out and the seat backs will come out. Then the rest of the lower seat will.

And this one

Or this one...

OK, how about I start?

Wasn't that posted by Marnix? I believe it is from his home track in the Netherlands. I can't remember the name though, damn CRS! I also believe that was one of the original RX's.

I have seen bad rubber hoses allow fluid flow in one direction and not the other. It could be a rust situation I suppose. That is easy to find out though. All you have to do is remove the caliper and remove the piston. Clean the surfaces with a very fine emery cloth and reassemble with new o-rings and dust boots. Basically a rebuild of the caliper. Try opening the bleeder valve and see if the pressure releases itself. If you can turn the rotor with the valve open then it's a problem with the rubber lines or the caliper itself. Ken

Being that this is your daily I would suggest that you go with a 26" tire(205/75R14). The power range will be only slightly effected and you won't notice the difference in clearance off-road. Besides, they're a little cheaper in price. Morgan, How bad is your MPG? I still got over 20mpg when I ran the 28" swampers. And what do you keep up with?

Congrats to all particpants. It wasn't a huge rallyX but it seemed all had a good time with the very tight course. On a side note, it definitely pays to run clean. 84Brat A653... BLACK BRAT DOSE SUV 00:01:46.75 00:01:41.76 00:01:41.44 00:05:09.95 00:00:00.0000:05:09.95 Qman 425NXV BLACK BRAT QUALE SUV 00:01:43.91 00:00:06.00 00:01:41.44 00:01:38.87 00:05:04.22 00:00:06.00 00:05:10.22 Edrach LIGHT BLUE BRAT E. RACHNER SUV 00:01:47.41 00:00:02.00 00:01:42.59 00:01:41.56 00:05:11.56 00:00:02.00 00:05:13.56 Underlined is raw time. Italics is penalty time. Bold is final times. Excellent runs by Brian and Ed. I just couldn't stay out of the cones in the corner out of the long LH sweeper. Brian won by .27 seconds. Closest times I have seen in any class.

Pat = the barter king!!

I am sorry, but... I too was thinking the same thing. I had to lower my seats to be able to wear the helmet for rallyX.

Cool, learned something new today!!

1600 with D/R in anything is rare(read, not factory). It probably is the result of some creative fabrication. I could be wrong but I have never heard of a D/R behind any 1600. Does it have the center or side mount starter?

The best place to buy Swampers in Seattle area is from me. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20324

The problem is aftermarket versus factory I believe. I have seen them appear too long and too short as well. You may be able to get some adjustment by moving the mounting bracket a little bit.