Qman

First, we have a few new sponsors that didn't make the original website publishing. IPD of Portland Oregon. They are a distributor for many performance related parts and accessories. They are relatively new to Subaru but have been in business for over 40yrs as a Volvo performance supplier. Subaru West coast, yes, that is correct, Subaru has contacted us and wants to be a part of this show and in the years to follow. We are excited and very proud to have Subaru involved. Subie Sport magazine has agreed to come down and cover the show for us. They will be on site in the vendor area to show their stuff. They may even offer special show prices for subscriptions. They will be out and about taking pictures and talking with folks. BYB/Ozified lifts, we will have a new generations lift kit up for raffle. The is a new design and will be sent for the correct application for the winner. Either EA81 or EA82 only at this time. We also have a vendor list that continues to grow. IPD Glove Buddy Subie Sport magazine RalliTek SPEC Mudrat design and fabrication/MTS Design & Fabrication TWB Fabrications Hood River fairgrounds will be offering food through out the event. Meals will be available for purchase including Breakfast on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Lunch on Saturday and of course, the spaghetti feed on Saturday night. We will be have the trophy ceremony and raffle give aways at that time. SOA has also offered the services of the Outback Angler. He is an award winning chili cook. He will be serving on Sunday during the rallyX. It is going to be a fun time.

Yes, one maybe two cars and 4 people. Will there be any planned stops along the way? Can you email me and we can discuss the plan more. Ken I added a poll for this. It will make it easier to tabulate.

We made it. It started out as a Gen1 short bar and we extended it up and back.

Thanks Jared, yes, those are blocks. I needed a couple more inches of height and it improves the pinion angle when fully extended.

Richie and his Dad run a Subaru repair shop. He is a long standing board member and his Dad has been in and around Subaru for around 20yrs. Here is a link to their website (which is currently under construction) http://www.superiorimportrepair.com/page.htm That amount of money sounds like they are estimating repair of the waterpump and front engine seals and timing belts and possibly an oil pump. Which is well worth it any time you have to do a waterpump. You have to open most of it up to gain access anyway.

Professioally installed bedliners are the best. Spideyz is correct on you get what you pay for. I got a couple estimates from Line-X and Rhino. Both over $300.00 but you get a warranty that goes with it. The problem with installation is that on the Brats and even El camino's and Ranchero's is that they can't just slider a curtain between the bed and cab. There is alot more prep time involved. Have fun with the new addition.

Check the ASV system. When they start to go bad or go bad for that matter they melt. The plastic innards of the bell(black plastic) melt and get sucked into the carb. This will cause the plate in the bottom of the carb to appear to be stuck open. I have had this happen twice on the Hitachi carb. You may have to remove the carb to get the garbage out. Good luck.

It already does!

I believe he is in the military right now. He has popped on periodically. To get ahold of him try his folks, Chef Tim and Vickaroo.

I would concur with Coupe. That or the rear window is leaking. Both happen alot in Subes.

Sorry for taking so long. I got home Saturday and went to bed after yet another 36 hour day. Sunday was spent on my Bro-in-laws boat. The run was excellent. First, let me say that Eric, Tex, Rob, and Brian did indeed do everything the Brat did. However, I just seemed to have a much easier time of things. It ran flawlessly, well except for the cooling fan deciding to act up. Glad I threw that gallon of coolant/water in the tool box. And a slight brake issue that I'll go over later. I have discovered why Jeeps, 'yota's and others go so slow. THEY CAN! Locked up in the rear and open in the front seemed to be a good combination. We went on a couple of the most difficult trails at Evans Creek. And, frankly, they bordered on boring. A couple of things need to be improved on but the for most part it worked great. Now, I just have to relearn how to drive it again. I killed it a few times because I was trying to go too slow. Anyway, here's the link to my album. Keep in mind that I was driving and didn't want to stop to take pics. And we didn't take any pics of upper 311. It was an experience that I just chose not to share. But Eric can vouch for it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=572

I don't remember the actual number but if you take one to a parts store you can match it up. I replaced all the bulbs in one recently.

Stub axle shafts do not matter in the rear diff. They are all the same. All you need to do is remove the center section from the housing. Keeping the components from the 3.90 gear together. Grind the housing like the LSD housing. You see the difference once the cover is off. Change the ring gear to the LSD and reinstall in the 3.90 case. Done!

1/4" drive deep socket. E10 as stated above.

...told ya' :-p

Just in case you don't get the connection. This is the second phase of the drivetrain conversion. Mike was in on the ground floor of my conversion. Stay off of the computer and you'll get it done.

I have owned stock and modded Subaru turbo's. They went OK, don't get me wrong. But...they are not muscle cars by any means. The gearing sucks and without mods they are just commuter cars.

Naw, not at all. I get to drive it when no one is looking.

High lift cams will to a degree affect compression. Not much mind bit they can. What effects compression is decking heads, changing pistons, even the type of rings used can effect it. What may have happened is a burnt valve. Increasing boost without increasing fuel pressure will result in a lean condition. To much pressure could also result in broken or burnt rings. I feel it still should have started with low compression in only one cylinder. Where are you going to take the parts for inspection? Make sure to tell them all the mods you have done so they can make understand the conditions and causes better.

Fact, my daugthers 1991 Civic Si, stock except for the air intake and exhaust, is much faster than my built Brat and my stock Legacy turbo wagon.

Well, the shaft does come out but it should be installed prior to bolt up. What you did was break the front pump drive gear. The trans has to come apart to fix this. If you get another trans make sure you install the shaft sleeve first. There is a clip that goes with it also. Also make sure the torque convertor is installed completely before you install the trans. You have probably the worst Subaru trans to deal with as far as installation goes. Very heavy and long which makes a bad combination. A tranny shop can replace the gear easy enough. But without the correct tools and trans tear down and reassembly experience you'll never get it back together should you attempt this. BTW, I had this happen once. I have rebuilt transmissions before and it took me two days to replace the gear and get it back in the car. Good luck.

Glad to hear you made it in safely. Come home the same and we'll see you then.BTW, I got the letter:brow:

Way too much pressure. Possibly could be a stuck thermostat. Could be signs of a failing HG as well. Check for water in places it shouldn't be, crankcase and such. Might be worthwhile to have a leak down test performed to verify the condition of the internals of the engine.

We have an excellent search function here. The EJ20 turbo motor is known as the EJ20G. But it is sometimes called the EJ20T. Here's what the search function came up with for EJ20T http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=6060 And for the EJ20G http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=6062 Generally, it picks up the words you use and gives you posts with all or part of the search words. Give it a try, it's up in the header panel above.

Some have cut the steering column back a little to accomodate the angle. The addition of the second U-joint can accomplish this but you have to be careful. You can build in too much movement and the steering will feel floppy. We added a pillow block to keep mine in line. We had to add a couple different u-joints and the angles were kind of rough. After securing the pillow block the steering feels stock. If the angles are too extreme you run the risk of tearing the rag joint, beware.