Svengouli7

Someone had commented that one could simply change the strut top and use the rest of the EA82 set up.

I am 2 steps begind you Flow. I had just read your earlier posts on this as I have my 82 brat apart- and am trying to fit the full size clutch disk etc in. I thought McBrat had done this alright?

PM sent to gunslinger sorry to highjack

hey there. I had seen your post on Craigs and guided you here. Register and post it for sale on the marketplace forum. All soob nuts here.

Well I can tell you not to go to Fluery's south of the Everett PaP on 99, unless you want to dicker..alot.. and still pay too much. BTW- if you are still interested in pugs my place is right off I-5 85th st exit, N Seattle.

Dante, I have 3 pugs here in the N end, 14" steels, Lemme know what style/depth you need and I will look to see if I got it, if Q isn't helping you out-

*tear in my eye* Gald to see it's coming along McBrat- and very glad someone had the time and space to take her in!

Caleb, be careful trying to follow the angle of the existing hole when drilling it out. I went through this experience and tried to let the drill follow the existing holes by hand- I had 3 holes to do and thus ended up w/3 studs off at different angles. I used 7/16" threaded rod, did not have to open the washers. Wish you the best luck.

Roger that. Will not melt

Whelp, don't everybody jump at once. So far, so good. I cut the old flange off, after a little grinding to taper the fuji bead I was able to get it sitting snug in the 2" tube and welded it in. Looks like at about 62" it needs to go into a 60* then maybe another pc (on stock at this point seems to commonly be a 90*) to the muffler. I grabbed a turbo free-flow at action for $30. I'll keep yall posted.

Books show use of a spring balance to measure the drag in the assembly before disassembly. I don't have sensitive enough torgue wrench to measure drag or spring balance. Anyone done this ok just by "feel" of tightness? I can't imagine this being too different that rear 2wd bearing seating.

OK well on my way w/ my project wagon. Lift is done but now I wanna put in a 2" pipe from the cat back, might gut the cat after I pass emissions. Anyone got an idea of what-all I need for angle peices etc from prev goes? I do have access to a wire fed welder and a cut off saw for good angles- will a tail pipe expander open up the tubing enough to swag it together?

I gotta sneak preview. I think this next one of Eric's has gotta be the sharpest lookin lifted hatch yet. The tan one was tight- and clean. This one's just stunning though!

Try driving in reverse a few feet

I had a bearing come out w/ an axle on an EA82. Examination did reveal a little bit of pitting in the hub. I cleaned w/ a bit of emery cloth, and ended up doing both bearings. If you need to go cheap there are 2-3 bearing shops on 4th av S off the michigan exit- I think its a '209'. I picked up sealed bearings down there for about $15 each, the guy quoted @$11 for regular (about $10-15 less that Schucks/action) Seals you will have to pick up at an auto parts store probably for about $5 ea. BTW I am not convinced sealed ones are the way to go. No matter what small grit can work its way in there. Plus the outer race has only about a millimeter exposed so tapping them in w/anything but another bearing is probably a bad idea.

Yep, Thanks a million Ken, John, Zap and all others. Hope it cleaned up ok and all the campers packed up their own trash. Really was a nice venue- not too far for us in the north end of things, but far enough south to take a bit of the edge off for the lower Oregon/Cali etc guys. Really nice looking north to Adams and South to Hood-- not to mention the Columbia. Well done- seemed there was something there for everyone!

Booyah. slack wins again.

Wish I had thunk of them before I spooged weld all over.

Just got done a little bit ago welding a steering extension. I did the best I could (flux core wire fed, I preheated w/mapp hoping to get more penetration) But this being the peice I really fear failure in, was wondering if a machine shop would be willing to put to 1/8" or so hole through my sleeve& shaft assembly so I could put some roll pins in for an added failsafe. I do have a newly acquired drill press too, but I am thinking the oem shaft is pretty damn hard... I'd call a shop but I will have to wait to monday, and am curious.

Sorry Tim I just picked up on this thread. Mon through Thursday eh? If there is anyway to play hookie from work I just might be able to. Be a chance to meet Andy too- it would be a little tough though frankly. Like Rob said, shame you landed 5 hrs short of ocean side!

I am in the middle of putting some new rear bearings in (4wd gl) and have some regular red disk/wheel bearing grease handy but am wondering if it is worth running out for some moly-b black grease for them. Any educated opinions out there?

I'll be there. Probably w/ 2 or more peeps. Prolly have 1 soobie and some infidels.

I used some sealed bearings on the brat I am driving now. The outer race on those things is about 1/2 the thickness of the outer race on non-sealed ones, meaning don't even try to use a punch in driving em in. It will slip and damaged the metal seal. Use an old bearing to push em in once started.

tri[ple check your linkage. Make sure the valves are closing fully when off the throttle. Make sure you have a goods return spring set up?

I have to second all notions. Tim and Vicky helped me out a lot when I broke down out there way. Their just doing what their boss tells em too. And its appreciated.