Svengouli7

hi Gravel Pretty sure its the blue wire- in a group of three like this _ l l top wire.

Whoa. Sorry to hear this man! I just sent you a pm about other things- lemme know if this changes things ($$$) for you and you want out of our arrangement. I have learned the cams are slightly different between SPFI and carbed. Maybe a search for details is in order.

Kinda guessing here but I think the Aussie BYB site could help you better. Swinging a hammer in Telluride? Ever meet a Brian Johnson? Good luck

The only stunts I think I have seen like it were maybe the pictures of Austin and Ken launching outta that gravelly pit like last summer. All I know is I was up on the bluff minding some other important business only to have a charging beige soob make me look over to the right just in time to see it go damn near air borne after charging a 10-12' bank! Yeah Eric. We can trade. Just trying to help you out.

How about checking the wire that runs to the pressure sending unit? Make sure it is connected and connected well.

Hi Caleb. I had some luck w/ a come along attached to the header of the garage door (someone left an eye bolt in there) and rope going though bay and tied on the end of the tranny. kinda like the ratchet strap idea. couple ups and downs and i was able to lean into the bay, and kinda lift and work it it that way. Good luck.

no, there is no blinking or clicking... Zap, I will give you a call here in a bit No great sense of urgency here, I forgot to have the girl I picked this up from sign the title. duh. and the 3rd gear thing kinda clips the wings a little..

hehe. So the 84 2wd wagon I've been working on now moves under its own power.. but lacks a few things like quiet brakes, 3rd gear, and turn signals. The indicator on the dash lights up solid, but does not blinky. I checked all the lights in a walk around, they seem to light up just fine, which would mean the flasher is out- I have been trying to find the flasher for this thing, looking at location diagram in the haynes, picture shows it to be a box shaped peice next to a cylindrical peice, to the right of the fuse box. The 2 peices in that area are both cylindrical, and are 4 prong. Good old Schucks equipped me w/ a 3prong flasher, box shaped. This does not compute. Has schucks sent me on a goose chase (again)? Or should I be getting more invasive in my search... Thanks

I don't think disconnecting the hose will guarentee anything, if I remember right the chamber beneath the carb is part of the whole jacket in the intake. On my EA82 I took a small square of 1/8" aluminum stock, tapered the edges, pushed down the brass feed nipple in the port a bit, tapped in the square a little bit below the surface of the plane, then covered it w/quicksteel, scraped it flush w/ the plane and was happy, no leak. Good luck.

Don't know about cowboy bars man. Whan is your big day?

Thanks for the call Mike, and thanks for the pic Mr Renn. Will be double checking the pipe fittin area at work tomorrow...

wish the best for you.

In Nov BYB555 on the aussie site posted he had been running 125's as p and secondary mains, w/ 140 and 160 as air correctors in the top prior to doing mods to his powerplant. Post upgrades he siad he had been running 140's in the bowl and 165+180 as air correctors. The carb Cameron sent me was off a crtina, I dont think he changed jet sizes although I guess its possible he may have let them trade places on reassembly- it had 132+140 as mains and 175 and 135 as air correctors. I still want to pull the top off a redline carb as sold to soob guys and see what they put in there. In weber books there seem to be good listings of stock weber set ups where applicable, but these listings don't cover aftermarket mod set ups (that would be a big list I'd bet) They do provide some examples of 1.8L motor applications though...

Hi Mike. So I have a N/A EA82 intake on the bench I am prepping to for my weber and to mount onto an ea81. I was wondering where/specifically how you relocated the barb off the thermostat housing that conflicted w/ the disty on the EA81. I have the disadvantage of the block being up at Zaps so I cant dry fit it. I had found this using the search- "I'm the fool that put the SPFI intake on my EA81 and made the bolt-on Weber adapter plate to keep the carb level. I think it works good but I've spouted enough on that already. In retrospect I kinda wish I had gone SPFI...it just makes sense. Once you get the system working you might even be enlarge the opening in the manifold and go with a bigger throttle body. Didn't Chef Tim or someone stick a EA81 block into a SPFI Loyale? Surely someone has already done this. The intake fits on the block like it was made to, everything lines up perfectly. I used the SPFI EGR pipe and it fits sweet with no interferance and I have a functional EGR system. The heater pipes needed to be bent a bit to clear the oil filler neck (or something over there) but it was no big deal tweeking the pipes to fit. The biggest headache was a small coolant fitting on the thermostat housing. The fitting is in the way of the disty vac advance (for a EA81 disty.) I cut off the fitting and plugged the hole in the 'stat housing. Then I installed a new barb fitting in a new location. (It's for that coolant line that runs from the stat housing to the center of the block under the intake.) Other than these little items, the SPFI intake fits right onto the EA81 block." Sooo if you are around the hood gimme a call at 818-6048 er something... I am a little leary of capping off the existing barb, and drilling etc.. wanna do it right thanks

that really stinks man. Wish I had a tranny for ya.

Hey Austin... Hoped to see you at PaP but got a call from Rob after talking to you, and heded down to Buckley, hit PaP later (@3) Think I am mostly set now btw. Take it easy

header says it- are the tranny mtson EA81 and '2 trannys the same? thanks

I saw a few of those elk biding their time just back from the road when I left... Me and Jackie had a great time, and I hope my begging doggies didn't bug anyone too much hehe My only regret was not introducing myself to Mark/XSNRG, and the chance to thank him personally for the fastener he sent me- I don't think I put who the blue wagon belonged to until we were just about to the bottom of the FS road on the way out.. It was great to see all the family fun too- makes me look forward to my trip "home" in Dec. that much more! I90 corridor here I come! Caleb

I sure had some fun- did some puddle hopping and the hobbit trail where the soob eating hole was fed...G.D. was succesfully pulled back out of it, but his clutch failed... Q's brat now wears another mark from towing GD's wagon in the tight trees.. The pair of them were awaiting AAA when me and Eric left @4-5. I had some ignition issues... Austins XT looks best w/ a wash of mud! And yes it was real good to meet more folks though I don't think I caught all the names by any means. We'll have to do it again real soon, and I hope you can make it next time.

Cheer up Jerry. I'm sure you'll find another sometime... and you gave it up to caring hands I'm sure! Take it easy- Caleb

Ed, I've been in Illinois- will be flying back tonight and will be available the rest of the week for the pick up of that rim-

Mine is 180*. I did not shorten my cable, and that has not been a problem. I picked up a choke kit at napa- the "nugget" in the kit as a cover did not fit well, went the turned route. Noah88DL installed his w/ choke, head on- he just beat the PS rez till there was room. If that was me, I woulda caused more problems for myself and still had to turn the carb- but it has been done. Any leaks Noah??? From what I understand, installing a Weber either way we are forced to in our cars isn't ideal, and can lead to hang up of the float on hard turns, hills. I have suffered fuel starvation in moments like that. I've read the float pin/hinge should sit parallel to the firewall, and in the most forward position if possible. Either way, the coolant passage was barely covered w/ both Cameron's plates and kit ones, and match up to the intake once "flipped" wasn't ideal (dremel?) I used the brass del nipple in the port to support a bit of aluminum cut to shape, countersunk, then covered w/ quicksteel. No one stepped forward when I was dealing w/it as to whether there was any real reason the secondary should not be most forward spot... So, its been runnin okay since then, jetting is okedoke but Im sure could get better. If you take the top off yours, pls post your jet sizes (air correctors n mains, idles if you look) good luck

7/16 coarse was it, I just cut threaded rod to the same length as the head bolts as studs. If it wasn't 6pm on a sunday I would have gone to Tacoma Screw out here and gotten some hardened stock- I was able to get 1/2" in an equiv to grade 5 or so before- try calling a fastener shop if you've got one local. I wish you all the luck if you are trying to drill those out w/ the motor installed- room for a drill+bit+patience will be tough. If I had had another $150 I would have looked for another motor myself, but woulda still tried it out anyway

bbs53... If that makes you queezy I just won't tell you what I tried to pass as a "valve job" hehee Mind you this is a motor out of a $150 car, not even a $150 motor. Nothing but the best as far as threaded rod- grade 3!!! The goal was to get this car up and about for as little $$$ as possible- I really had no budget for the effort. This hackjob is about to be retorqued, and It looks like I may keep the car as a second-- When she takes a poop I'll let you know.

Hi guys. I have a block that stripped out a hole- I borrowed Ezaps heli kit for 7/16 coarse, and bought some extra coils and 3' of threaded rod from NAPA for about $10. I cut to size some lengths of rod (use nuts on it to mark your place to cut and clean up your threads) and was pleased. I was not pleased after doing 1, resetting a fresh gasket (the first delaminated when seperating due to the 1st hole stripping-because I used some copper sealant- which I would not repeat doing-- $30 for another gasket) then I had 2 more fail. The real problem I made for myself was in the process of drilling- I had no success in hold my 1/2" spade drill plumb and level while piloting out for the coils. This means I ended up with 3 studs facing like this /,\ and straight. I had to rasp out the holes in the darn head to get it to slide over! A little too shady tree to me. I hope you fare better- if you have help, maybe have someone spotting you as you pilot out the block for you coils. --PS I felt more secure using 2 coils per hole- if you go 7/16 they are pretty cheap I'd consider it