Svengouli7

Where's money creek mike? I gotta friend riding up from Oregon. We are supposed to do some brake work- might be fun to take him out in the roo...

Per the USRM article, " Make sure that you use the side caps that match the ring gear. Very important as this will maintain your gear mesh. If it isn't the right set you run the risk of getting noise and mismatch" Sounds like you only need the #/shim placement of your 3.9 EJ, don't need to remember the set up for the 3.7 Zap, Im about to grind swing by if'n your sttin around

On the money Mike. I.D. on the LSD thru holes to ring gear were like 10mm per el cheapo dial caliper.. thread width on the bolts to be used from the 3.9 were 10.5/11?? Wierd. Mr Qman mentions this in the USRM article. BTW, nice feature! Zap, I'm thinking I owe you a fresh drill bit (from your helicoil pack)... It was just the right size at the moment of need and Mr Svengouli had just a few too many to cruise out for one

Woulda been done last night but ended up having to drill out the holes to widen them up a bit. EJ- the side seal carriers Andy included with this have 1 shim on 1 side, 2 on the other. Looks like each diff could be different. Thanks again for the socket use Zap.

thanks guys. Me and Zap dug through his stuff, no dice. FYI Sears is a no go as suggested by some (they do suprise me once in a while what they do have) also, the "E" probably stands for external (female sockets) regular male star bits seem to be refered to as "T"-number/size Ken if you see Zap and can spare yours for the job it would be great

Hi guys. Working on swapping 3.7lsd/3.9- Looks like 1st order of business is to get the stubs off- I have an external torx e-12 but shes too fat to squeeze inside the stub- What socket/where'd ya get it to unscrew these boogers? Looks like a 9mm 1/4 drive deep might work (if my garage was clean enough to find one arrrrgggg) 5/32 just doesn't grip..

I see lotsa readers, no call from you Ed so maybe you have not seen this "bumpalotamus"

I have something for you here from Jerry. Give me a heads up a 206-818-6048, prolly be around evenings all week if you wanna pick it up.

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Hello- I need to arrange to pick up stuff that Baccaruda left out there for me AGES ago... some rims and a diff piece.. Please let me know a good time to do so, andI hope I am not putting yall out by draggin my feet so long, car wasn't moving when he brought out the stuff, and since then its been one thing after the other (some things for fun, some not) Thanks Caleb

Hi Ed.. were you going to make a trip to the Yakima area? Already been?

thanks Toybuilder. Ended up doing 3 7/16 coarse heli coils. Problem I encountered at that stage was keeping the drill plumb to the short block surface- 1 out of 3 seemed straight when finished, placing head on was tight since 2 studs were off a hair facing either way. For furture reference, any tips on keeping that drill more plumb? I did not see a real practical wa to set up a guide.. tried to check against a square but that became irrevelant once the metal started curling out.

missin some blocks er struts? pretty damn badass lookin'

I had increased jet sizes trying to hunt down similar problems.. had put in a larger jets... seemed to give a bit more power overall, turned out I was getting about 16-18 mpg! I am diggin to find what sizes I have in right now... still not as snappy between primary and secondary as it should be I'd guess. I also suffered from stalls on hard turns- whatI have read is that webers really ought to be placed with the float pin parallel to the firewall to prevent this temprary starvation. This just doesn't seem an option on our intakes due to the way the barrels are arranged- unless we go dual 32/36'ers but then htere's the linkage.....(?) I also picked up that low initial power can be attributed to not having a big enough idle jet set up... have not messed w/ that

I meant to go yesterday.. any other stragglers?

Sooo.... turned out the vac cannister on the passenger side firewall was hooked up to an inactive vacuum port (the one that sits at 90* to the EGR, now capped off post weber install) Runs full blast in defrost off the windsheild vents after having switched vac ports... Skip, you'l be pleased to see that I've put my ride info in my signature lest I forget that detail again in the future.

1,000 pardons, Mr Skip. All I've been riding are EA82 4wd wagons- in this case 5spd d/r. Getting lazy I guess. And 1,000 thank you's. Perhaps I hooked that sucker up backwards or some other brilliant self defeating error.

Alrighty. My fan selections work fine 1-4. But when my defroster is on, no air ever blows out the top. I know the defroster cycles during different engine load- so which vacuum line did I goof when I did my weber? Or, is there specific wiring for the defroster I coulda goofed?

2 ways I might try that- 1, spreading needle nose er something in it (shim? wedge?) and trying to turn it in till its counter sunk- then maybe follow it w/ another coil w/ the heli tool? Maybe put the flat blade of a screwdriver perpendicular to the end of the wire and tapping it to see if it would move in? Or try to remove it (maybe same way) clean the threads out, oil em up light and put a brand new one or two in w/ the heli tool.. *never had the problem* Good luck though!

Noah88dl slapped a weber on his spfi.... Might be interesting to see what he could add to this thread re: advance and wiring done... dunno if he just plugged the carby advance port, and screwed her down? Maybe put a carby disty in it when said and done-

Hey Reoff. I'm in Seattle but every once in a while I head up to b town to see a good friend up there. I'll keep it in mind- maybe we can meet up for a beer (er whatever) sometime.. I should be up there soon, since my buddy had his 2nd kiddo I have yet to meet!

2wd axles might be a little less beefy...dunno for sure. only differences I was aware of for sure is in the spline count between turbo and non axle ends. Drawing the axle into the hub has been a pita for me before. Have some plastic ABS or PVC pipe handy to cut into spacers to place behind the axle washer and nut if needed. I have had the whole knuckle off before w/ the axle just started... and WWF'd the face of the knuckle on the garage floor w/ axle in hands to get it seated good.. prolly lucky I didn't break anything though

I put a motor from Nippon motors in a loyale wagon I had. Delivered to my door in Seattle from LA it came to about $650. The outside was steam/solvent cleaned. I did a reseal on it, including the oil pan, and i don't remember much sediment in it. Cooling pasages were a bit nasty- while it was hanging from a hoist I kept filling her up w/ water and draining- head plugs were blocked, that first rinde through looked like automotive diarrhea. Once mounted, you bet I flushed her a good few more times. That motor lasted about a year prior to a head gasket failure in a trip (whole other story!) Certainly I don't blame the motor itself- seems like as hg could go on any of our motors at any time (EA82) unless fairly recently redone w/ dealer gaskets...

Planning on going down- maybe not whole weekend, we'll see (probably fri or sat night + a day) Mike W, Subafly.. if you need a hand lemme know- and Mike, your carbie is all ready for you (can drop it by or you can stop by if you like) Still dunno bout that upper 311 but am eager to explore round the park more.

For the x member brackets a chisel and hammer will pop them out of place- whack between head and bracket To lower your knuck further perhaps knock out the pin holding the inside doj- that'll allow the axle to slide out a smidge when pushing down...