koolminx

Found in oil pan, thin curled up metal. I haven’t been inside a Subaru before so I lean on you guys for thoughts.

Just in case anyone is Actualy reading this Here are the sticker numbers off the Impreza first followed by the Forester. 681168 4A-TY754VSBAA 342145 67-TY754VCAAB Thank you yet again

I have a bad tranny in an 01 Forester, have a good tranny (if a little loud) from an 01 Impreza RS. Where do I find the final drive ratios to ensure this tranny will work in the Forester without binding up things? I do not have the Impreza to check it's numbers, I only have the Impreza tranny. Thanks!

The timing marks on the Craig and both cams are good the bolts holding the cam sprockets in place are intact the Locking pins on the camshaft holding the camshaft sprockets in place are good this is not a timing event this is an electrical event and I am just missing something but I will find it

Yes everything is plugged in and it is not a stupid question

, why should I scope the crank and cam sensor with both the crank sensor and the cam sensor are new and the cam sensor is brand-spanking-new right out of the box and the cam sensor is off a running driving motor this issue if not the crank of a cam sensor in the does not need a scope for that particular thing while the engine cranks it gets no signal but as soon as it is released it gets crank signal so between the ACM and the crank signal to the injectors what causes the injectors to flash because I have literally had the key in the on position and jumpered the crank signal down at the solenoid on the starter and it still does not Flash the injectors until after the engine stops turning.

Okay boys let's open up this can of worms new crank sensor new cam sensor timing marks Dead on new computer new computer control relay crank the motor nothing happens release the key and on the last movement of the motor the Noid light flashes twice for the injectors tell me what the problem is

Those are some very good and valuable questions to ask :-) and thank you for mailing that to me I will be extremely pleased when I plug it in and this car fires up :-)

I will check in the morning if i can find where the darn wire is on the harness. ????????????

Ohhh, okay, i misread, i get what youre saying now. My apologies

Technically I think the ECU relay failure was the thing that gave up the ghost the day my son was driving it because when I was previously diagnosing the car I would receive a solder two injector code while cranking it with annoyed like in sonar to us injector and I also received the code prior to the final failure of the crank sensor being out of whack when I had the crank sensor unplugged

And I fully understand your sentences about the diagnostic path And discussing with the customer the issues that they experienced. Now as far as my son is concerned spoob he could have been going straight downhill at 250 miles per hour and then just coasted in to the store parking lot when it died but it was a really convoluted parking lot so I kind of believe his story that he drove and then parked when inside came back out and it wouldn't start so he jumped it with the spare battery he keeps in the car and he play with it for about a half hour and it still wouldn't start and then he came to me I told that sucker home after doing a thousand different things to it LOL so now I'm waiting on this computer from spark boy and hopefully she'll fire right up if not I think there's going to be an accidental fire in my driveway from a spilling of two or three hundred gallons of unleaded LOL

Additionally it was a very long cranking session before the car would start and it would usually only start when the battery got down to 10 volts or maybe even a little bit less right before it would cease to crank and then it would fire up but it would always run extremely smoothly once the load from the alternator smooth out after recharging but even then there was no ill functioning of the computer running the motor at all no misfiring no weeks throttle nothing that would seem unto word other than hard cranking and then finally starting at the end of its life or near the end of its life of cranking. This happened over a period of time but maybe a month and a half it had to be cranked longer and longer and longer and then finally it just wouldn't start after my son drove it to the store

On this particular model I must beg to differ. If I have no check engine light and then I unplug the crank sensor and crank the motor over I will get it check engine light and the code will be for the crank sensor. If I clear the code and then crank the motor over with the crank sensor plugged in that code goes away showing that the computer does recognize that the crank sensor was in or out of the system I eat working correctly or not working being it became an open circuit. The same goes with the cam sensor and the idle air control that I got yesterday when I was diagnosing and playing with the car. The Idler control I believe was a P0505 Once these items for plugged back in the code was cleared and when I crank the motor again the code did not reappear