koolminx

The injector must get a pulse at every revolution of compression otherwise the engine will not run......

I need brilliance... What prevents the injectors from getting a pulse from the ecm during cranking? Just an overall bad ecm? And if so.... what are some compatible subarus to test anotger ecm from?

The cam sensor is fine the wiring to the cam sensor is fine there are no check engine lights the car just cranks and cranks and cranks and does not get signal to the injectors anymore except right as you let off the key the last rotation will send a faint pulse to the Noid light somebody needs to be able to crack this code

Thank you I will get on that first thing as well remove it clean the connections and see what goes on

Sure you're not talking about the crank sensor or does it have a crank sensor and cam sensor both?

Plus I will check the cam sensor if I can find somebody that will tell me where they're located :-)

The only time I get a check engine light is when I disconnect something and start the car it will set a fault code for the injector that I plug the Noid light into and if I disconnect the crank sensor and crank the motor over it immediately set a code for the crank sensor otherwise there are no codes

That'll be done first thing tomorrow thank you for that thought!

All of the connections to the engine from the fireball have been checked but I will double check them tomorrow and I will reassemble with Dielectric grease that's another good idea although they were inspected in all appeared to be in good condition

Well that sounds like a nice idea although I have no idea what the coolant temperature sensor would have in relations to the ECM sending a pulse for the injectors no matter what temperature the injectors should always receive their pulse while cranking and running

Have myself a 95 Legacy Brighton.... Auto trans blah blah, 2.2l yadda yadda.... Most times when cranking there is ZERO signal to the Injectors... As she sits, the car will only start when the cranking voltage draws the starter down to a crawl, and sometimes not even then... When I utilized a Noid light, it shows ZERO illumination, when it is supposed to be flashing with each signal from PCM, thus the car will not fire off. sometimes when cranking with the Noid light in injector 2's slot, the light will flash and the car immediately starts. Other times the Noid light will be dark during cranking and only flash once when the key is Released from the crank position, and the next attempt to crank it, it WILL start.... Therein lies my constitutional dilemma.... This issue was in place before I replaced the physical ignition switch from a running driving problem free Legacy. The car starts better after it's been run and is up to temperature --on occasion-- Not the fuel pressure, I have 36 psi. Not filter, it's new and free flowing. Not the crank sensor, NEW and crank wheel is dust and debris free. With only a 4 wire ignition switch, it is not the ignition switch in my opinion. But.... I've been wrong once before, and that was the only time... lol 8) What is the next step guys and gals? The PCM is going to be unplugged, and I am going to clean and apply electrical connection lube and cleaner before reconnecting. What is my mostly dim but brilliant mind missing in this setup? Thank you for your time and hopefully BRILLIANT replies 8)