MysteriousXTC

Again dont have my manual in front of me but I am getting these codes... code 11 code 15 code 22

Ran the compression test on the drivers side cylinders both around 100, guessing thats not bueno, but I don't know how bad cause I don't have my manual with me...

Cap and rotor look good, when I remove the plugs wires from the cap, while the engine is running, its getting a good arc between the wire and the cap... Guess i need to compression test it... However it has been to the point where its will run extremely bad and I can remove two plug wires and nothing changes; passenger front and driver rear... Kinda odd to lose compression in two cylinders on opposite sides simultaneously isn't it? Two plugs were black (not sooty) and wet, other two where the grayish white color... Car doesn't not burn oil at all.... Its just very odd considering it switches from running on 3 cylinders to 2 cylinders and sometimes back to running normal on all 4...

I lifted my rear the exact same way, brackets and turning the struts, didn't know that wass how the SJR brackets/mounting was, awesomeness:banana:

Engine: EA82T (87 GL10) Car as of recently is running piss poor... Sounds a lot like an exhaust leak, however it will occasionally clear up and go away and run fantastic... I through out the exhaust leak idea because I would get under the vehicle and while I could hear it I most certainly could not find a leak anywhere... When I started searching for another cause, with the engine running, I would remove one spark plug wire at a time and listen for a change in the engine... I noticed I could remove one of the plug wires and the engine idle would not change... Decided the car deserved new plugs and wires... Got them put in and nothing still the same condition... The plug wire I was removing was the front passenger side so I assumed it could possibly be a coil going bad, not having the power to overcome the resistance of the longer wire... I really don't have much cash right now so I don't want to go buying more parts that might not be the fix... Also was wondering if sounds like a possible condition of low compression in the cylinder? Any thoughts/ideas/direction would be appreciated... -caleb

Ill get some pictures of my buddy's civic with tube doors if he ever puts them back on!

My half doors thus far; kinda different from others ive seen but I wanted to retain a place for the mirror to attach... And my extremely messy metal area...

be sure to post up pics once its in...

done it on my buddy's civic, im bored and want something to occupy my time... plus I have a spare set of doors laying around so it makes sense...

idk if those are quite half doors though lol maybe 3/4... I definitely plan to trim off a bit more... thanks for the pics though...

Anyone ever fab'd some up for a scooby, think I might do it on my EA82 wagon and I wanted to see how rediculous it would look ... Think they would look much better on any form of 2door but we'll see...

Someone optimistic like me ... wonder if it cause we share the same name?

maybe if I was back home in Nebraska

Thanks for the input everyone, its really helpful... And yes the car is rust free... I do plan on fixing all the small easy things and hopefully nothing big will pop up... Once I can get my other subaru fixed I will then focus on selling this one, till then DD all the way...

I figure it might help the value, plus if I ever get another it doesn't take me to long to make one....

oh its fine, the tick isn't the issue, hell all my subarus have ticked and just like this one they all run fine... I just know how bad I am about working on things and fabricating stuff all the time and its my final year in college and I have a lot of things I need to be focused on other than a car... but yea the tick isn't that big of a deal, just the lifters getting stuck every once and a while, probably get it to go away with some MM or seafoam...

thanks, and that is definitely lower than I was hopping...

Just wondering what the community thinks I might be able to get out of my car if I were to sell it, as I am really contemplating doing so... 87 GL10 -EA82T just rolled over 100k and developed the subaru tic :-\ -Auto to D/R 5spd Swap w/ matching rear diff (open) -Interior is in good condition only problems are headliner drooping and front door panels have ware at the top -Intermittent wipers dont work nor do the first 3 blower levels -New Dueller APT 3's on redrilled nissan rims, also have stock rims + tires I will probably lift it an inch or so in order to keep the tires from rubbing slightly, and a few other necessary things before I sell it if I do... I will post up more complete pictures tomorrow... I was hoping to list it for $2000 maybe a bit more, what say the community, just right or to much? I am on the east coast (north carolina) so I know the demand isn't to high out here so my asking price may be a bit optimistic... thanks, caleb

Once I get my bender I was going to fab some things up based off your brat, I think...

Just wondering if there are any other people from the Carolinas? If so post up your location if you dont mind...

Definitely a good thought, I was pondering that myself when i was tinkering aroudn, I think it would give more room for the hood to clear the lights when shutting...

I definitely prefer the vertical bar as it doesn't block the radiator... Once I can get my hands on my own bender I will definitely be playing with things like factory bar replicas and complete round tube bumpers

also if and admin wants to make this a poll that would be awesomeness ...

So I have been toying around with the idea of producing some light bars, and while I am particularly fond of the bumpers I've built I know the price is a little high for some... And not wanting to descriminate , cause everyone needs more light , I have two basic ideas for light bars for the grill area of the scoob and wanted everyones opinion on them... Conept 1: Vertical Bar Mounting tab for the lights Concept 2: Horizontal Bar; inspired by the Rallitek light bar thread I looked at... Mounting tabs can be inside the bar or outside These are the two basic concepts of what I have been tinkering with this morning... Keep in mind these are really rough as I had very little bent tubing to work with since my close friend moved about an hour away from me, and since he has the tubing bender it makes it difficult to do things on a whim, hence the drawn in yellow lines for where the tubing will be run... I think it would be most practical to run 2 lights off of both setups however 3 should fit fine, 4 would be pushing it as they might start to get in the way of the headlights... Also keep in mind this is 1.75 inch tubing, alot bigger than I really want to use, I was thinking more along the lines of 1 or 1.25 inch tubing... There is a lot left to consider still, especially the actual mount of the bar... I have a few ideas however I want to make it as simple as possible... Also a determination of price is in order, so everyones opinion on how much they would be willing to pay for one would be appreciated... I'm sure I've failed to mention some things but post your thoughts!!! -caleb

Good points, still need to at least get it tuned to my antenna...