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Andyjo

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Everything posted by Andyjo

  1. I've never had any problems with my 4eat offroad... like scooby said, get a cooler, and know it's limitations.. it's not going to be perfect, but it will get you most places that you want to get if you know how to drive a line
  2. So, i pulled the ol' impreza out of the barn today... battery needs some charging.. and i still have that transmission problem..... (yeah it didn't just go away like i planned....) i'll get it up on stands sometime this week, and start measuring things
  3. That's what i was thinking gary
  4. BARF!!! i thought it was a strech for the 05 lines... but i guess i got used to it... but the rims are just gross on the 08 OB... or at least the ones i saw. and the new imprezas...... eh.... i'm not a fan at all. i'd take a baja over the new line of roo's
  5. good call, i suppose i'll have to make some rims, and check clearances...
  6. if you just lift your suspension, yes your camber will be a little off... depending on how much you lift it, you should be ok just going and getting it alligned with the stock camber bolts.
  7. well.. i suppose there are several ways to lift an EJ-aru. you can just lift the suspension, and run a larger angle on your half shafts, or you can lift the whole body up, so you'd have tranny/engine/all sorts of other blocks.... so if it was done correctly you could have the suspension lift part work with the body lift part.... does that even make sense to anyone but me? when i get back home i'm going to start measuring and designing some stuff and see how it works. i'm guessing the OB's and Legacies are relitivly similar to my OBS, besides the bolt pattern & strut top hat issues. soo... that might lead one to believe making an extension to the bottom of the strut as an easier process? i drew up a quick strut assy with a hub... yeah... the hub is just a block for now.. .and none of the dimensions are set... realistically.. just did it by eye... but we have this: and... i'll draw up some lifting methods in a bit... so the 1st way would be to add a big ol' block up on the top of the top hat, the second way would be to add an extention to the bottom where teh hub mounts to the strut.
  8. well, the paint code should be stamped into a metal plate, attached near the drivers side strut tower... it should also be on the little sticker thingy on the drivers side door jam, that tells you the reccomended tire pressures. I've had good luck going to NAPA, and having them custom make big cans of paint... it's like 10 bucks for 2 cans, but it looks pretty much the same.
  9. heh... on the note of rodents and subarus.... my girlfriend's engine is covered with droppings.. no chewings yet... but her mom got a new 05 outback... back when they were new, and within a week, it wouldnt' start... because a squirel had chewed the wires that lead to the fuel pump
  10. If i remember correctly, an half shaft from auto zone/advanced auto will run you about 90 bucks after the core. It's a real easy swap too.
  11. The guy has enough positive feedback..... eesh.... i'll try to find the records, i got my forester struts off of ebay.. not ure from who though.
  12. when you go to replace the springs, put king spring/scorpion springs in and it'll give you a good 2 more inches.
  13. I'd make sure those 17's arn't bent of something.. because they usually don't go for cheap but as long as you can cram them in the wheel well, and they don't rub on anything you should be fine.
  14. that's awesome dude, i may have to check that out this summer, i've gotta' go back to NH and get all my gear, but i should be back up w/ it in Juneish do you know how deep it is? and about where in the lake?
  15. Well today i finnished up my open water diving certification in the balmy 40 degree st. lawerance river This summer is anyone up for a few dives? soem friends an myself are planning on hitting up lake george, and champlain at some point. Let me know, and we'll do some cool stuff
  16. That's your starter not getting enough go-juice. check your battery terminal connections, clean them up real nice, and then tighten them down pretty good. Sometimes the connections will just loosen up on their own. or... should i ask.. can you start the car at all?
  17. my 05 has the plastic junk... how long have you had the car? was it there when you bought it?
  18. 24 blocks well.. i guess if you want to do it right, you've got to go all out, right i'm not to worried about it, take it as it goes pretty much
  19. Quite a few people have had this problem, i thought i did, until i realized that i bumped the trunk light with my head, and never realized that it was on... i also tend to leave the two map lights on in the front... that'll kill a battery overnight http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51200&highlight=battery+dies there's a few things that people have found the most common, is the radio head unit then th Defective Engine Control Module.... then a defective map light switch... when i had the problem with my OBXT, i just didn't let the battery charge fully... so it kept dieing... if you're going to do it right, you've got to jump the car, drive a few hundred miles, and then let it sit and idle for an hour or two.. i did that, and i haven't had the problem since...
  20. I didn't know Ozified was working on one, you're right that would be alot easier... oh well, i do like making things on my own, and i'll be bored after work As for the OBS... the tranny is toast, i've gotta' pull that and fix her up... why it'll take a year... $$, moving, to MA, etc... the Car will be staying in the barn in NH, but it's an hour drive from where i'm going to be living... fixing the tranny won't be that hard, just have to find the time I talked to some of my buddies about the camber issue... sounds like the controling arm may drop down a little bit too. we'll see. I like the extension to the bottom of the strut idea too. but i guess i'll see what happens, i'll mess with stuff, see what i can come up with, since i like doing stuff myself, rather than shelling out $$ for other people to do it for me, eh whatever, i'd like to learn something during the process too
  21. Alright, since noone's really making lifts for the EJ's (body lifts that is) i figured, since my OBS is out of commission for a while, it's going to get big, and i'll just make my own lift for it. So, i figured once i have it designed, i'll just post the 3-views, specs, and whatever people need to get it built if they so please. So the parts that i'll give a shot at designing: -Strut tower blocks, possibly with some camber correction -Engine & Tranny Blocks -Diff Lower-er and... what else? does the exhaust need to be messed with much? Now.. i know it'll take some time, but i'd like some input about this stuff... here's something i started to just mess with, no measurements, or to scale, just a general idea of the strut block. i'm thinking aluminum... for weight & easy of machining... aye ideas? It'll most likely be a year or so because i can finally get time to rip apart the car, and install it... but why not start designing now?
  22. I was driving around, and i saw a Camo non-lift hatch going the other way, little tires on her... but it was still hard core camoized. It sounded like it had a few holes in the exhaust... anyone on this board driving through po-dam lately? i gave a wave, but got no responce.
  23. watch out for the 4x4 switch on the 4eat, it has a tendoncy to burnout stuff... and i'm guessing that youre' going to be romping on it pretty hard... get a tranny cooler before it's too late, or you'll suffer the same fait that the 4eat in my OBS did and when you're offroading... after big hills & nasty stuff, let it cool a little... i went out one day and managed to get a little atf burn at the end of a hill so, get the biggest tranny cooler you can find (i used the RV one.. heh...), and make sure to check if the 4x4 switch is locked up... because it is pretty easy to miss if you don't really watch what it's doing. and 4x4 + pavement = burnt out tranny :-\
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