-
Posts
1705 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Andyjo
-
I've found that it's not always the huge breaker bar that does it... i've snapped many a' breaker bar by throwing a 5ft tube on it and reaming the ************ out of something... best luck i've had getting the axle nut off (in the rain, middle of nowhere vt), was taking a 1/2" breaker bar, about 1.5' long, slide a tube over it (another foot maybe. then i had someone press down on the tube, leaving some room about 4" up the main breaker bar... then i wailed directly on the breaker bar with a 3lbs mini sledge, while there was still force being applied to the bar... the nut right off it's called... manual-impact-gun
-
+100 for the lightforces they're the... middle blob of light.... mind you... these pictures were in the middle of the day.. the lights just confused my camera middle of the day... yet again....
-
just the struts will do, springs if you want to go higher.
-
WRX in snow.....
Andyjo replied to newg's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Yeah, what he said, the OBXT is the way to go -
WRX in snow.....
Andyjo replied to newg's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
what kind of snowbanks will you be busting through? the biggest problem you'll have with the WRX vs OBW is the ground clearance... if you were sporting the same tire type, and tranny. Getting high centered with an impreza/wrx is alor easier than with an outback.. but then again, the OBW weighs quite a bit more... but that momentum can help you smash yourself through some snowbanks... trust me i've got some pictures floating around somewhere that will explain this.... -
Clicking LSD?
Andyjo replied to Andyjo's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Well.. since it only clicks when it's getting about 200+ft-lbs of torque to it i'm not exactly sure about the click:wheel spin ratio, i guess i could run beside it when someone's stomping on the gas.... i'm wondering if there's a bit of water in the diff.. frozen chunk or something. eh.. it's about time to go synthetic with is anyhow... -
Clicking LSD?
Andyjo replied to Andyjo's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
i didn't break it yet nipper, it broke itself actually what's interesting it that one of my buddies who has an OBXT, says his does the same thing, and a guy over on legacygt.com. the fluids look good (yes i still know how to check those :-p ) and the axles seem to be solid (can't move them laterally really) at first when i heard it i thought blown cv joint... but the boots look perfect, and i felt around em and it feels fine inside, for all i can tell. hmm.... i don't want to bring it to a dealer -
I've come to expect something like that from a link like "http://wrxvideo.vidiac.com/video/c68...fd5ac8697f.htm" stupid kids....
-
You should be getting abour 10 ohms off the duty C solenoid. here's the connection: Here's the connector: that is.. 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 12 11 10 9 13 - - - the dashs repersent NO PINS (there isnt' a pin there), you can only sort of see that in the image. and here's what you get when you grab pins 4 and 11 If you get something completely different from that resistance... you may have a fried duty C solenoid. When i burnt out my clutch pack, when i romped on it i could spin the front tires... and the rear would do nothing. How does your ATF look? burnt, black, nasty? I've heard you can replace the duty C and the clutch packs with the tranny still in the vehicle... just a little tight i believe. If you want more info on how it works: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264 that's how to lock it up, but i wrote a bit about how it works & stuff.
-
Derrick, just rip out the center trim stuffs, and the shifter trim, there's a little metal tabb'd switch that you can push up, and it will unlock the key. here.. the plate will look something like this... Where the notches for the gears do something like... 1 2 3 D N R P i believe... the switch is at the top of the P notch i think.
-
I'm sorry.. if you have an apporpriate set of tires you should not need chains... both my subarus maintained superb (i dunno if i've ever used that word before... ) traction and handleing characteristics. Hell, even with my old yoko avid touring tires ( 0 on the snow scale ) i managed not to kill myself on a highway covered with 1/8" of glare ice... downhill... That AWD system is expensive, Tires are cheaper, dont' trash it. a note on tires... my obxt 5mt, crawled up a 38deg hill w/ 6" of snow on it last night, no tires slipping at all... so yes, AWD will get you where you want, you just have to not drive like an idiot
-
I might be wrong.. but i think AA stoped making Subaru stuff.... To get 300hp out of your stock EJ25, you're going to have alot of work ahead of you.. it's going to take a bit more than just a turbo... you need to upgrade your fuel rails, put a nice turbo in there (not a stock OB/GT turbo) get some up/down pipes going, you'll most likely also need to get it pro tuned... with an Access Port or something along those lines (i don't know if they make AP's for older Subarus). Once you get the horsepower cranking, you're going to almost instantly start snapping halfshafts, like it's your job. That's why you said go solidaxle... that will have to be totally custom, because as much as i can remember, no subarus came stock with solid axles. As for the dual range tranny, you'll need to find one, get an adapter plate (easy enough) and mount that all up, if you want solid axles, you're going to have to put a T-Case after the tranny... i'm pretty sure you might need a little more than 10" of lift to get a T-Case under there... not 100% sure on that either. But i am pretty sure that if you're trying to push 300hp through an EA Tranny... things are going to start to break very fast.... Have fun, hope you have a big welder, and alot of free time!