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Everything posted by Andyjo
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If you're going to be offroading that thing, take into account that you WILL break things, i'm betting 1st you're going to crack that front plastic bumper thing, and maybe rip off your exhaust backing up like that That car is pretty low.. the 1st thing i'd do it secure a lift on it... either body or suspension.. i'd start w/ a suspension lift... easy & cheap(ish) what else breaks... your gas tank can get smashed in.. so if you break crap, don't be suprised... here's your link to the locking clutch pack: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264 you'll want to have that.... i've walked right up stuff steaper & nastier than that plenty of times before w/ the good ol' 4wd switch, no problems at all. And as stated above, momentum can be your friend, but it can also destroy your oilpan :-\ be careful with that car, it looks nice, alot nicer than my OBS was when i started romping on it :-p
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I want one!!!
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Any interest in a lift kit group buy???
Andyjo replied to Shadyirishmen's topic in Products for your Subaru
2" Impreza Body Lift? 4 is just too much for me :-p -
There needs to be a smiley face that scratches it's head in thought... because that's what i've been doing for some time now.... at first i thought it was my swaybar, so i took it out, no big deal.. but it still does it... when ever i crank it all the way left, and there's a loud 'Klunk'ing noise. I'm guessing it could be the steering 'yoke' (Universal Joint thing) again... anyone else have this problem before? The last time there was no klunk it just was hard to turn, turned out that the bearings in the yoke there siezed up, made it near impossible to turn..... Once in a while i'll get that hardness of turning... but not all the time...all the time it makes that klunking noise... i guess i could get off my rump roast and tear out the yoke again, to see if it's siezing again... but i'm lazy... eh... ideas? :-\
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you can change the tranny fluid yourself, really easy, get a large drain pan, pull the dipstick, unplug the tranny pan, and drain the fluid out.. plug it up again, put some more fluid in via the dip stick hole (a funnel w/ a big end thingy works best). just fill her up till the full mark.. drive around for a while, go into a parking lot... do some circles etc... change the fluid again.. do it say 3 times or until the fluid comes out red..... you should be good.
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Looks hott! i like the look of the 2-tone's better anyhow
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if you get a scoop, especially one of the JDM ones (found on OBS's etc..) they have a backing plate on them anyhow.. and are completely astetic... something that this backing plate does is creates a pressure bubble inside of it, and can screw with your aerodynamics a bit. I took the plate out of mine, and haven't really noticed a difference... but i'm guessing there's a little less pressure bouble.... but something you may want to consider is that this bouble could increase your fuel efficiency, directing the flow over the top of the scoop instead of slaming into it, and turning turbulent or something like that. Is your impreza the small 2dr one? usually comes in that wierd blue/green color? some buddies at school have thost.. re-painted, nice rims, JDM scoops & smaller wings, they look HOT. THe red one has a roll cage built in it (set up for some hard core rallying), and i believe one of them has a EJ22T in it, and the other has a Full WRX swap in it.
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they should fit fine, the forester struts fit in the imp. caps, no problem, i think i've heard that the forester ones just pop right in, no cutting, etc..
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oh yeah, isn't it illegal to weld to a unibody.. or something like that? say.. if i cut out the lower rad support and welded in some 2x2" square tube in it's place.. a little higher up.. i dont see how that would be a problem
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only scratches when i turn it on.. i'm gonna try the hammer trick, because i like hitting things with hammers My problem gets worse with the temperature... it used to only do it when it was cold out.. but now when it's warmer it's starting to do it more offten... boo!! I'll have to find my camera, and extract the sound from a video & post that...
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i believe it may be illegal unless you have a permit for it.. like suicide knobs... i knew i kid in high school who had both of these, but he had a medical condition where his feel/legs weren't able to operate the pedels properly.
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how about this senario.... you start the car, it starts fine, but when you let go of the key, there's a scratching noise for about.. say.. a second or 2... depending on how cold it is out. It sounds to me like the sring isn't disengaging... or could it be the brushes just being CRAZY... or something. would this require a starter replacement? or a good swift kick to the box?
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It only scuff'd when it wasn't fully cured yet, i got a little inpatient :-\ it's rock hard now.. can't scratch it if i wanted to i can chip it though, by smacking a shackle into it... d'oh!!
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alot of the hard core offroaders here, with heeps & toyotas swear by autos... and they don't mess around... 2 of them go to compotions w/ their vehicles. but yeah.. a subi tranny (4eat) isn't designed for that sort of abuse... i know from experience
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another problem w/ using an auto for offroading is that your torque converter gets pissed off REALLY fast if you don't have a tranny cooler. And yeah, i've been in situations when i've had the car pegg'd to the floor, pulling about 4000rpms, and the wheels just won't move up the hill... grrr i wanna do up a twin stick setup break axles pulling out of the driveway.. oops!!
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Whoah! it's been road tested, no wierd wind noise, lots of funny looks, got some shackles on her too. ALSO it may have gotten me a job i find out later this week. Pic of the radiator setup would be awesome... and yeah i need to work on that skidplate eventually. i've got the belly part cut out, i just need some more plate to extend it up to the bumper, and back a little further. I think the tow hooks may come off tonight if i can get ahold of the plasma cutter again.. if not... bust out the hack saw or sawzall i think if i were to do it again, i would have bent the tubes in a little more, they stick out like... 3/4" from under the fender on each side... i'm thinking flush would have been prettier.. but whatever. ALSO, Lightforce 170's will fit under the bar oh yeah, some people wanted to know some specs It weighs 52.7lbs The steel cost $117 bucks (i have ALOT leftover) The paint cost $12 bucks, and i still have 1.5 cans left It's now sporting 2x 1/2" shackles ($15), i wanted 5/8 but they didn't have them there
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my milage dropped, if i go by the odometer, because it counts lower, but if i go by the GPS the whole way, it's roughly the same, although the tires i have on there have a more aggressive tred than my touring tires... so that could also drop it a little. Note: the shackle mounts work there was some pulling of 'stuff' on campus which needed to be accomplished, it got done very well that thing is rather solid i'm thinking i may cut up some plate to use as 'washers' on the top end of the bolts, so it distributes the force a bit more eh, we'll see
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that the plan in the end, not sure what to do about the radiator... i may see if i can just move it... and chop the support right off. perhaps put the radiator under the hood scoop? who knows...
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Here it is! i skuffed it a little putting it on.... needs some more paint, but that'll happen some time other than tonight. Gotta' cut off those tow hooks and make a skidplate... whoah!
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something about going offroading.. and only coming back w/ one swaybar link when i got back, made me take out the swaybar