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Everything posted by Andyjo
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e-brake slides my friend. i think i may have to do it too... just for because well.. more crap needs to be done to that car are there any forseeable problems with switching it to FWD while moving? i mean.. if you can drop it into 4wd while moving.. i see no problem with throwing it into FWD. SO... throw a fuse in the FWD fuse holder, cut a wire on the end of the fuse holder, run that over to where the 'brake' light switch is under the e-brake..... wire up a relay on the brake light switch, and complete the circuit... easy enough?
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whoah! thank you! my girlfriend's gonna kill me.. muahaaha i'll set it to her background too
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i want a bigger one than that! 1600x1280 baby!
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i sense Autodesk Inventor... say.. v. 9.0? good model.!
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youre borlas reduce your clearance?! mine give me more
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you can accomplish anything with an angle grinder and a large welder
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I've got about 8 at the y pipes, a little less with the stock headers on, and something like 9ish at the rear diff... depends how much crap i have in the trunk.
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really old uhh status on the oilpan.. some silicon rtv is holding the oil in... as for the switch, go for it! just be reminded that the 4eat is not a happy beast if you run it in that mode for a prolong period of time... when i was offroading (and bashed in my oilpan) i was running around w/ the 4wd on, and doing some pretty gnarly offroading, and the car started shaking really bad after a nasty hill... i let the tranny cool down and it was fine...
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it could just be the laminar boundry layer going turbulent... eh :-\ what is it.. .the reynolds number hits 1/2 a million and BAM, you get turbulence...sort of... i'd check to see if they're on backwards/upsidedown... i haven't seen one myself, but i'm guessing they're some sort of airfoil design.. When i first bought my 97 OBS when i hit 40mph it would hit like.. the resonance frequency for the bar spacing (roof-bar distance) and it would make a nice howl... i just drove faster or slower.. until the problem went away... but i've since removed the factory racks... eh
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Are any of the EA oilpans the same as the EJ pans?
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Let's just say that i SHOULD have one... i managed to bash the snot out of my oilpan the other day doing roughly the same thing you described... except i nailed the oilpan pretty hard, and got the headers also, nice dent in the borlas you don't want this to happen to you: oh well.. i guess i'll learn and for making your own skidplate, good call, i'm doing it, i'd use steel not aluminum... 1/8" plate should do it. i've got a piece about.. 24"x15" and it's just barely big enough to cover just the oilpan and some littler stuff, i think i'm going to get under there & measure it up and get a bigger piece for the job... perhaps re-enforce it w/ some small square tube, and weld the snot out of it.
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hey.. now why didn't i think of that.. i just took e-mag last semester i was going with the 'let's see if it starts to rust' approch.. d'oh!
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he wants you to get the other cars, so you can swap out the parts that break :-p so in the end you have ONE really spiffy car, and 5 car carcesses i like my 97 OBS... but it's a little small for all the stuff i move around. eh, good luck.. and oh yeah.. the EJ22 will take a bullet for you.. or at least the oil pan will take a few rocks
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nah, it just builds your tranny some character i'll be doing this this summer i think... when i was offroading the other day my 4EAT was PISSED OFF, i had the center clutch pack locked up, and i was giving it alot of nut, in some torquey situations... at one point i was going up.. the motor was at about 3.5-4k rpms.. and the car wasn't moving.. no problems with traction.. just a large lack of torque..... think i may have to change my fluid again :-\
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It's made of aluminum right?
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may have fixed it.. for a day or 2... silicon RTV is my friend
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already posted in the market place