Andyjo

i've read subaru wires alot too, i've been thinking of changing mine out.. i just haven't had time to get to a dealer maybe i'll order some from jamie... eh.. who knows...

to keep it semi sealed, i cut a slit in one of the rubber things, ran the wires, and then just threw some silicon in the hole to close the gap...

and your vehicle is?

wierd... my 97 impreza's rear camber is VERY adjustable... when i did up the lift, and got everything back together, i had -2deg on one wheel... until i fixed it... it's not adjustable on the strut, it's over on the cross member by the diff, a big ol 'bolt

i only lifted my impreza like... 1.5" but there was plenty of camber adjustment left...... i don't think you'd need that

brakes grabbing? perhaps a warped rear rotor? when my bearings went/are going i've never gotten a squeak persay... well... only when it had completely failed, and the axle was floating in a sea of bearing juice... (metal bits + grease = bearing juice) but when you reach that stage its' more of a screaming death like sound....

i suppose you could have your host mask change for every download, and trick the system.... or does it go by username? hmm....

here's what you do to get that nut off. you get in your car, your drive to the local shop and be like 'hey, i just broke like 5 breaker bars, can you loosen this for me? it's a 32mm nut' then the guy says, sure drive it over to the door, he opens the door, comes out w/ his good ol 800ft-lb impact gun, breaks it off, puts it back on a little looser than it was before, and away you go, if they're nice they'll do it for free

I'd do all of the struts also, in my 97 OBS the rears went out before the front.. but i also was beating on that thing pretty hard... if you want instructions check this out: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50268 that's the thing i wrote about lifting my OBS, but it's the same thing with different struts... actually.. if you need struts i have a set that only has about 10-20k miles on them... KYB GR2's... but whatever, let me know if you need em, it's a really easy swap, it just takes time. I'd really suggest soaking ALL of the nuts/bolts in PB blaster for a few days (hit it a few times a day) before you do the swap, it make the bolts come out easier, and saves you from laying on the ground with your feet in the fender well reaming on your breaker bar

please explain this 'drink' =D

hey.. i almost did that today! cought a thule bar on a tree... had to back up & try that turn again

i've heard 5% -10% circumference between all the tires... any more than that and it can start to get pissed off. if you have to run a different size tire, get the same sized ones up front, and put the off sized one in the rear end, and put in your 'FWD" fuse, that'll disengage your rear end, so you wont' completely chew up your AWD.

because if you try to run an STi motor through an EA tranny... what would be left in the end? a pile of metal?

it's still sitting on my bed, i'm awailting access to a welder funny thing.. the girl gets angry that the bumper gets the bed, and we sleep under the bed... heh but yeah, the other day i cut up some pieces so i can have directionals! fancy aye? it's getting there slowly.. i'm not sure about the airbag stuff.. because the battery was disconnected when we built it on the car... you know.. welding on a car w/ your battery connected can be interesting but yeah, hopefully tomorrow i can get into the shop, either that or next week sometime... i'm still not sure what color i'd like to paint it, maybe grey.. maybe black.. hmmm

Shopping cart bowling !!!! WOOHOO! in a walmart parking lot... we got one going a good 20-25mph... into about 20 of them in a big group Also got one to flip over a curb.. a few times... quality entertainment here

i want an EJ d/r... w/ an sti motor swap thinking of that scares me... .in a good way

My OBS came naked :-\ i need to work on getting my 1/8" plate bolted under there....

A little side note on using a solid rod opposed to a hollow one... a tube (hollow rod) will take torsion/torque much better than a solid rod, it has to do w/ moments of inertia, and crap like that.. if you really want to math i can bust it out.. but i don't think you want a completely solid axle....

it's been done, Forester ranger has it in his forester there, and i guess it's pretty hardcore. I was going to do it to my OBS, but it got cold out... check out this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50833&highlight=dual+range+in+OBS shouldn't be that hard...

man.. you OWNED that thing... good to see that the mudrat bumper destroyed the other car.. lol... i dunno what you guys think, but i think it makes your car look more hard core

if you have a stock subi exhaust, it should be galvinized (zinc plated) and not rust THAT bad... unless you're like make and like to remove the plating w/ rocks, small trees, DEEP mud at high velocity... etc...

There's a reason i have my 700watt inverter wired directly to the battery 4-6gauge wire is fun! i've only fried my 12v supply once.... so i put a 30A fuse in instead of the 20A... problem solved

could be a long shot, but check all your vaccum lines, maybe you pulled one by accedent, or you have a leak... that would do it...

you can get some pretty hard core aluminum out there, say... aircraft grade :cool: but you end up spending.. more than the cars worth there.... you might as well get a 24'x8'x6' block of aluminum and mill is out into a new brat they do it with airplane skins/stringers etc...

if they have an obd 1 reader