Andyjo

welcome to the club, good job! i can't wait for pics

sort of like a knock? or poping noise? my swaybar(s) both do that ever since i played with them.. you could try taking it down and re-mounting it?

the documentation i have has "use a hydrolic press" and that'd it... there were some links posted a while ago about the swap from impreza bearings to legacy bearings, and it had very detailed instructions... i have them printed out, but not digital... if i find the links i'll let you know

how much are those universal sensors anyhow.. i have no clue how to fix the problem, but i need to change mine soon

ahh, those are in, we cleaned them up nicely..

i think when i flushed mine.. i used 4 of those big jugs of atf =P

pad clips? you mean those metal shims that always fall off? hmm... we didn't put those on... perhaps that's the problem.

That's so cool, i'm going to cut off the front of my impreza and make one! with the exhaust coming straight up out of the back, like that one lol... what the hell... people are.... interesting....

That click is a switch which lets the key come out if you're in park, if not, you can't get the key out. I had a problem with the pin that switches the switch (the pin fell out), and there was no click, and my key was stuck in the ignition! Ended up ripping out all the trim and glueing the pin back in place. As for you're first 'problem', you spoke of the car acting like it was in 4WD all the time, that's torque bind, but that drive train back in, and change your ATF a few times, do it, drive around a bit (do some circles in a parking lot, it mixes the atf nice & good), change the fluid again, drive around more... you get the point, do it like 3 or 4 times and you should be good to go. The reason you do it more than once is because you can only get say.. 50% or less of the fluid out of the tranny when you pop that drain plug. when i did it i cheated a little and jacked up the other side of the car to get more out ALSO make sure all your tires have roughly the same circumference (within 5% of eachother), if not it can mess up the AWD, and give you some MORE torque bind. 12mpg... you might want to check the O2 sensors, sometimes they don't throw a code and are still bad. umm.... if i think of anything else i'll let you know.. my starter is crappy but i just deal with it..

I just switched to synthetic motor oil.. like.. yesterday, nor problems yet

You see, what you need to do in the end is make a BAD rump roast switch for it check out this baby, Green is AWD, Red is 4WD.. heh.. the funny thing about it is that the little wires (black & white, hard to see) are for the Tranny, and the larger wires (Green & Orange) are to power the LEDs I think if i can i'll get some white paint and a TINY paint brush, and pain AWD on the top under the led's and 4WD under the switch.. because down is 4wd, to get down & dirty

take out brake fluid? it was about 1/2 way when we started, and now it's almost full.. i don't see a problem with that... I'm gonna go jack it up, both sides, throw in the FWD fuse and see if we can replicate the symtoms w/ the front end in the air, try to see what's going on....

less force to pull, more tension in the cable you'd be essentially creating a 2:1 pully system oh yeah, you'd have to pull twice as much cable in to move the hook the same distance... i think

Both sides are doing it.... the rotors looked fine, no warps/bumps/wierd things. I'll check the axle... that'd be wierd though... Maybe it's related to the ABS kicking in so much.. ?

It might melt... hmm... does UPS have a cold delivery system? oh yeah, Potsdam NY is the place to be I've got a house too!

i don't have an answer to your question.. but what's a snatch block? :-\

it'll really vibrate enough to feel? i should go play with mine...

you need: a 19mm socket (lug nuts) a 14mm socket (caliper bolts) a 17mm socket (if you're doing the rotors, for the calipet bracket) a C Clamp (to compress the caliper, your new pads will be fatter than the old ones) a wire brush (to clean up the thing the pads slide on) some acetone (to wipe rotor clean, if you're putting a new one one) a hammer (to convince the rotor it wants to come off) a screw driver (sometimes the pads don't want to come off either...) Tips? maybe.. get the right parts, and put it together the same way you took it apart. As for the caliper, if you take it all off, i just turn it around and hang it on the axle... ALSO, i usually hit all the bolts with some PB Blaster before i start... makes things come out easier. For rounded bolts, i hear the craftsman bolt extractor thing works really well, or you could just drill & tap the thing.. but that's just overkill.

The wheels will fall off if you don't torque the lug nuts to spec... oops

No ideas? grr.... i was thinking maybe he got the wrong rotors? but they fit perfectly... no issues getting them on there. We didn't put the shims on the back of the pads, because the caliper would fit back on with them there :cool:

if i remember correctly you used a 25 ohm resistor? or was it 2 25 ohm resisters in parrell... that makes more sense...that's 12.5 ohms, which is in the TCM range. I may get around to adding those when i get around to putting the switch somewhere.. not hanging off my cd player control

my 97 obs has the single piston calipers, and my friends 99 legacy outback has the 2 pistons next to each other. Honestly, i don't think they'd put 'heavy duty' calipers on a mail car would they? i'd guess they'd be stock.... just me guessing though

Something to look out for: MAKE SURE YOU TEST PIN 4 AND 11, in the proper orientation. the row with 1 pin should be on the bottom, so you're going to be looking at the connector like this; 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 12 11 10 9 13 - - - the dashs repersent NO PINS (there isnt' a pin there), you can only sort of see that in the image. Also, inturupt pin 11, not pin 4, because pin 4 is your ground.

Something to look out for: MAKE SURE YOU TEST PIN 4 AND 11, in the proper orientation. the row with 1 pin should be on the bottom, so you're going to be looking at the connector like this; 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 12 11 10 9 13 - - - the dashs repersent NO PINS (there isnt' a pin there), you can only sort of see that in the image. Also, inturupt pin 11, not pin 4, because pin 4 is your ground.

perhaps i will, although i haven't tested the 'switch' at 70mph :-p only slowish stuff, but it worked DAMN well rallying up my road the other day in about 4 inches of snow