Andyjo

here here for Jamie, i'm just about to place my order for the relay i need, good stuff.

same w/ my girlfriend... they just don't understand the capabilities of the subaru! for some reason she thinks i like the subaru more than her... but... well.. maybe it's true :-p

i got an allignment for $54 bucks a few months ago... that'll correct your camber if you're worried about it.

Those are the tires austin is running on his impreza... they're a 27.8" diameter... so you should be able to fit em. I'm gonna get a set for my imp. when i get some $$ :-p

I'll second the broken wires in the rubber tube between the hatch & body. My rear wiper did the same. Along w/ the relay... if you chop open the relay, and clean the contacts the rear wiper won't be as sissy.... so yeah, i'd check the relay for the rear defroster, and the wire bundles.

ahh.. getting high centered, it's one of my favorite things to do in the winter... SubaPlow!!!

dude, you're on long island, he's in northern NJ... loan him your suby! i'd be there but it's sort of a long drive for me

This is sort of off the topic, but would: 5HOL 100MM TO 5HOL 100MM X1.25" be the correct item to increase the offset of a new. gen roo? by say.. 1.25 inches? seems right... i should measure my studs, like the website says to

Diodes scare me.... and i thought this thread needed another bump! And i dunno.. i sort of like having complete control, so the computer doesn't get fussy w/ me playing with it... but good idea! has anyone figured out the signal yet? or even where this mystery wire is?

I saw Opperose at a stop light in Potsdam the other day! and subie94 needs to get off his butt and go offroading with me

do you have rear drums? mine make a similar noise, because the shoes are super-low. If not that, it sounds like you might have a warped rotor... try taking the wheels off, and re-torqueing the lug nuts evenly.

good link! very helpful as for the box behind your gas tank, i believe that's the carbon canister...

Now to get the spring-strut back into the car, it pretty much the same as taking it out, except you've got a little more length to deal with. I found that bolting the strut cap up to the body first, was much easier than connecting the hub first. Also, make sure when you put the parts back in to look up the torque specs for your components. (Note: KYB Strut tops have a MUCH LOWER torque rating than standard subaru strut tops). So, now throw in the strut, bolt up the top, line up the bottom, and bolt on the hub (try to get the camber as good as possible..), re-torque the main strut nut, run the brake line back threw the strut, and connect that bad boy back to the caliper. You'll want to bleed your brakes afer all of it is done, because... well. because that's what you do. It also might be helpful to disconnect your swaybar when putting the new strut in, because it's taller, and your swaybar won't like that. So that's about it, do the same thing for all of the struts, and when you get it all done bring it in for an allignment. After you get it all alligned & pretty you should test out your new lift by driving up a large sand pile (Fig 17-20) Figure 17 Figure 18 Figure 19 Figure 20 Enjoy! i hope this helps someone, because it took me way to long to type and re-size the images If for some reason you need higher resolution photos i've got them... they're all 3.1 megapixel... so whatever Enjoy your new lift! Disclaimer: This is how i did it, i'm sure i forgot stuff, but it'll get you started!

Now for the fun part, get our your breaker bad/impact gun/10lb hammer, because now we get to remove the Strut-to-Hub bolts! Yay! Simply remove these two bolts (Fig 8) with your chosen anti-bolt weapon. My method was to shove my 1/2 rachet on there, lay down on the ground with my feet up in the wheel well and make alot of aggonizing noises until it came un-done. Figure 8 You're going to want to loosen the large bolt in the center of the strut cap now, or else you'll never be able to loosen it later on. With that done you can now remove the 3 Strut-to-Body nuts (Fig 9) holding the strut in place now. It should look something like Fig. 10 When you get the strut out of the car, this may require some very interesting controsions of your body and the strut-spring assembly. I found it easier to push the strut back into the car, and then pack towards the rear end of the car. When you get it out it should look something like Fig. 11, if not, please seek professional help... not this tutorial... Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 11 Now, i've found that many people are afraid of spring compressors for some reason... I've found them very easy and enjoyable to use, you just simple put it on the spring (Fig 12), lock the little tabs, and crank down on them w/ a rachet somewhat evenly.. Once you do this you should be able to unbolt the top strut bolt without it flying across your driveway and almost taking out your neighbors Figure 12 Now you should have a bare strut just waiting to be left in your front lawn for a week. It's now a good time to compair the hight differences between your new suspension parts, and the ones you just ripped out of the vehicle. (Fig 13) Figure 13 You can now take the boot off of your old strut and put it on the new one, or you can put a new one on (Fig 14).. but who buys new boots if the originals arn't ripped? :-p With the new boot on and zip-tied to the strut you can line up the compressed spring you just took off, or you can uncompress the stock spring, and compress a new spring (Fig 15). Either way, slap that puppy on there and throw the strut top on, and bolt that sucker down. Now you can experience the joy of trying to uncompress the spring while lining it up with the strut cap. Good times... Anyhow, after you get this done you should have a complete Spring-Strut assembly, ready to go right back into the vehicle (Fig 16). Figure 14 Figure 15 Figure 16

So for some time now every once in a while someone comes on the forums looking for information on how to lift their new gen. subaru. I've descided i'd throw together some of the pics i took when i lifted my impreza for a little help to those who can't quite put it all together. So here it goes: (For all bolt removeage, it's good to soak all of them in some PB Blaster for a day or two before attempting this opperation.. either that or have a very large breaker bar....) First you'll need some suspension components (Fig. 1)from a taller vehicle, i chose a 99 forester. I only got the struts from it, but if you got the springs, already installed, this whole thing would be alot easier. Figure 1 If you have the springs already installed on the struts then skip this step, if not, get yourself a spring compressor (Fig 2). I went to Advenced Auto, and asked if i could rent one, they said sure. Charged me 49 bucks, and if i bring it back, they give me the 49 bucks back. Figure 2 Next you need a vehicle to lift, most likely if you're reading this, it'll be a subaru. I chose to use my car (Fig 3), which happens to be the only car i own. Figure 3 Our next step will be to pop the hood (if you don't know how to do this, turn back now...), take the hub caps off, loosed your lug nuts, and lift the car and put it on jack stands (Fig 4). If no jack stands are available, utilize the local universities supply of bricks, found convienently in the dirt pile on the back side of campus. (Note: Users without hubcaps may skip the hubcap removal step) Figure 4 Your next step will be to disconnect the brake line from the hub, so you don't end up ripping the brake line out when you pull the strut (Fig 5). You will also have to remove the clip attaching the brake line to the strut (Fig 6). Make sure you plug up the brake line (Fig 7) when you take it off, also, because you'll get brake fluid EVERYWHERE. (Note, if you have friends that like to mess with you, keep them away from your brake pedel from this step, till the end) Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7

I was just wondering what kind of things might happen. anyhow, i was rolling through some of the FSM stuff i found http://www.freebmw.net/Share/CarsBoatsBikes/Subaru/FSM/ i couldn't really find anything about the signal... or the center diff, but i didn't find anything... although i wasn't looking very hard either.

it would be a short in the FWD fuse box? but i guess that's supposed to make a light come on in your dash. If ONLY your front wheels are spinning, that means that the DS c is getting a good hearty 12v... and i guess my torque bind comment has been overruled! and 230000 miles! congrads! become part of the high milage subaru club

i don't like the way it looks... to much plastic on top there.... i've never played with one... but i guess they've got some nut to them.. although the specs on the subaru site says they have less torque than the 2.5L's

i nominate Skip heh, i'll try it to if we can figure out which wires to tap into... i may need a larger inverter for the oscilliscope though.. or a long extension cord... So what we need exactly is: -The Stand Alone Signal (roughly what 100/0 would be) -How the Pulse Width changes w/ conditions To get the signal, we could perhaps throw in the FWD fuse, and check to see if that yields a high pulse width...

I'm about to do the same thing, but i'm installing an engine block heater at the same time. The my haynes manual says there's a drain plug on the radiator, and 2 drains for the engine block. The engine block drain plugs require a 14mm allen bit!! I've gotta' goto the local shop tomorrow to see if i can borrow one.... The instructions pretty much just say drain all the fluid, flush it out w/ a hose and then plug it up, and do what you normally do.

like a loud scratching? mine does that when it starts to get cold out... the spring/gear in my starter is giving out.....

without knowing any symptoms i'm guessing it's torque bind

I've got a ton, and they'd be online if my router wasn't being a tool... i can't get the port forwarding working here, to run my webserver off of.... There's a really cool pic it as it was going up.. huge dust cloud around it

Speaking of wear & such, what sort of 'side effects' could manually controling the DS c? you'd need to patch the original signal into something like ground... so the ECU doen't freak out, you can't just cut the wire.... Also, good PWM link above... sounds like a good idea, if we can get this sucker working, that would be amazing! i've actually started looking for spots in the car to add a switch & potentiometer Also, how would we go about testing the split.. if it's 50/50 you can go out in the snow, and gun it to see if the front & back both spin, if it's 90/10 , or 100/0 then you can do the same, and the front spins, but how do we know if the modification is actually working? lift up the car and throw a torque wrench on all of the axle nuts and put it in drive? record the results? hmmm....

2-3" i'd say i got 1.5"-2"? just from the struts, with stock impreza springs...