Andyjo

i've got all the service things that subaru put out... except they use all these fancy 'tools' like a 'slide hammer' (bearing puller?) and other things.. which i don't have... NAPA wants 98 bucks a piece for the rear bearings! is it just a straight legacy bearing swap? maybe they're cheaper than saying impreza bearing... eh?

AGAIN! i guess i should stop loading it like a truck.... or get a trailer hitch for it... mmm.... oh yeah, i've never really played w/ the bearings before, had a mechanic do it last time.. .how involved is it to dig them out?

So a while ago i started to notice a 'rolling' noise in the back end of my 97 OBS. I jacked it up, and poped the rear wheels off, and the brake shoes, and turned the the axle, and the 'rolling noise' is still there. I was wondering if this was just a sign that i should get some grease in there ASAP or if they're already shot. I did the whole torque test and stuff and they seem to be holding out pretty well. Any thoughts? The noise started when we were getting a ton of rain up in potsdam... so i'm guessing the bearings were packed in there w/ the packing grease, not wheel bearing grease... eh?

Sounds like you need a skid plate, or a sump gaurd.... i you like playing w/ metal that's the way i would go

i'm sure you can download a manual somewhere. Now what you should be thinking about is the material properties of your tow package. I have no doubt that the vehicle will tow 2500lbs, or even 4000lbs.... you'll just start breaking stuff though If it's a stock subaru package i'm betting it's "Rated" to 2500lbs, with a factor of saftey of course i've seen other aftermarket tow packages for subi's that are 3000-3500lbs i believe.

So i was bored today, waiting for job opportunities to call me, so i descided i would do something productive. The obvious thing to do was to lift my subaru. As i sat there for a minute, thinking of how i would accomplish this task i realized that my funds weren't adiquite enough to go to the junkyard and pickup some forster parts. So with no plan in hand, i headed up to our stop. After rummaging around for about 30 minutes i obtained some plate aluminum, and a wierd long piece of steel. I promptly cut this metal up w/ the good ol' Sawzall, and drilled a bunch of holes in these pieces. Now, i didn't feel like finding longer bolts for the strut mouts, so that limited me to about 1/4". So that's what i did. i took my ghetto 1/8" spacers, and poped them right in there (2 spacers on each bolt = 1/4"). I was also feeling lazy, so i only unbolted the top of the strut from the unibody, and threw on the spacers w/ the strut still attached to the knuckle (the rears are a pain in the rump roast! if you do it this way). So anyhow, i poped those suckers back on and bang! i've got 1/4" more clearance at all fours.. heh... i took a bunch of pictures but only a few came out well. http://64.222.148.23:78/bcoc/?cheese=piclist&picdir=minilift I believe the front bumper cover went from 10" to 10 1/4". The headers low point went from a little under 6.5" to 6.75" and the read dif went from about 7.75" to roughly 8". I highly doubt this will increase my offroading experience.. but what the hell, i got bored

i don't know any answers to your questions... but... it seems to me that the amount of torque coming from as diesel would torque your little unibody in half if you pegged it. just a thought....

WHAT DID YOU DO TO THAT THING?!?! i don't think i could get my girlfriend's 96 lecacy to get that milage if i tried O_O it gets something rediculous like 33mpg! oh yeah, i don't like the b9, they looks sorta' like those gross PT-cruisers =P

my advice would be tighten that puppy down a little more and see if it works. 1/2" seems like a bit much to me.... i know i have trouble moving mine but then again my subaru hates when i touch it's engine

Arn't the new gen's regulated at 100mph? it seemed that way.... but that was up a hill

Where are the gears? the shifter has: P (park) R (reverse) N (neutral) D (drive) no 3..2...1 ? boo!!

3ft crowbar... nuff said i use that thing for everything... poping out dents, beating the crap out of rust welded on bolts, removing side paneling, poping out break bads, fixing the radio...

Our boat has more power than my Subaru

From the start there it sounded like bad CV's... for some reason. my girlfriend has a 96 legacy, and it has that problem sometimes, i'll have to check it out, thanks!

fenders are overrated. it's always nice to see your suspension working you could just get out a sawzall... and fix that fender problem =x

Here's some floating pics from this year. as you can see, large knubby tires, and a fiberglass/foamtype floatation on the bottom. And yes, that's a beer flag

mini-baja cars: http://students.sae.org/competitions/minibaja/east/2004pix.htm it's a big competition between colleges.

You obviously didn't use enough PBB Blaster i think i go through a can each time i go under that car... might just be my obession though... heh but seriously, i couldn't get 2 bolts out... i snapped my breaker bar trying... brought it into the shop, had them try, they broke it. and fixed it right up. PBB Blaster didn't get in there it was so bad... eh.

Since you're playing w/ an OBS, here's mine w/ a redtop in it: And this next pic is where i had to disconnect the battery cable link, to make the calbes reach: I love this battery, it'll be -20 out, you run outside wearing everything you own, stick the key in, and hear the gas pump trying to kill itself, because the gas is so thick. And it just cranks over, 3-4 times and VRMM! no problem at all. I've also left my driving lights (KC's) on for about 5 hours by accedent, and came out... said oops, started the car and drove off.

Will the legacy bearings just pop in? or would i need to bust or the grinder and 'move' some material? This is what i found on i-club http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=999821#post999821

if you had been confronted face to face, i'd challenge them to a competition Let's see... -Acceleration -Handling -Gas Milege -Speed -Off roading Capabilities Hell i saw one of those ugly things the other day up close... the 'basher' on the front was made of plastic... come on.. my subaru is going to get some 2" solid steel bar welded to her front! no crumple zone there kiddos! you best be watchin' out!~

You don't have to disconnect the brakes on the newer models, it's just messy, and you end up having to bleed the bugger off at the end. All the books say take off the brakes... i didn't oh yeah, and taking the pressure off the suspension keeps stuff from falling when you undo the bolts

i don't remember touching my cv's.... you jack up the car, put it on jack stands. then you take your jack, and throw it under the knuckle, and take a tiny bit of preasure off of the strut to knuckle bolts, then crank those bad boys off, then you can slowly lower the knuckle assembly onto a piece of wood or something, then you can pop off the top strut mounts. and it should fall out, you might want to support the bottom of the strut so it doesn't come crashing down and break everything. remember to make the relationship of the knuckle to strut bolts so you don't mess w/ your allignment too much. if you're going to be removing the strut mounts... be careful... or else you'll get a strut mount FLYING across the shop breaking stuff.... OOPS! note: this is just how i do it, i guess you could do it other ways to.

I've got a red top, 75/35-925, which is... according to the website: 9 5/16" x 6 13/16" x 7 5/8" (LxWxH). Advanced Auto Parts said it wouldn't fit, so i took that as a challange, bought the battery, poped the old one out, and threw it in. The only 'Issue' i had was that that cables weren't really long enough... so i didn't accept defeat there... i went into the engine compartment and cut some of the restraining plastic things, and hooked it right up as for yellow top.. lemme check out the site here.... The Yellow Top D75/25 and the D35 have the exact same dismensions as my redtop. And i'm thinking that my 97 OBS is pretty much the same as your 00 OBS.. so you might have to pull on those battery cables a little bit, and cut some connectors... but they work oh so well.

we've got a clear tube, with a one way valve on the end of it, so when you press the brakes, stuff comes out, but when you let up, it doesn't go back in =) I think you can pick em up at a hardware store?