MR_Loyale

You can remove the door panel, two screw in armrest, pop off lock latch housing and then the whole door panel pops off. The switch will be attached to the control arms that are moved when the key is turned. i do not remember exactly where it is mounted in the door, but if you follow the control rods, you will find it. While you are there it would be a good time to grease the window tracks too.

You cannot prove a fuse is good by visual alone. However you can verify it with some deduction and fuse swapping. Your washer/ wiper uses a 20 A fuse. If your washer/wipers works, then swap the door lock fuse into the washer wiper and see if the washer wiper still works. If it does, the fuse is good, if not it is bad. Trust me a visual inspection alone doesn't prove it is good. Many hours may be wasted relying on the visual test of fuses. Ask me how I know.

If it isn't the fuse, the it is either the switch or the wiring from the switch to the actuators. Have you looked at the switch?

How did you check them?

The fuse is the one circled in red. Be sure to test the fuse with a meter. Do not rely on a visual inspection alone.

just a sec...

Did you check the fuse?

Do any of the three actuators lock the door when you turn the key on the driver side? Do any of them lock when you lock the driver side from inside the car pushing the latch?

Gunk is good stuff for degreasing.

Did you check the fuse? You said "it wouldn't lock ALL doors" does that mean it DID lock SOME doors? If SOME doors lock, which doors are the? Details are kind of fundamental in troubleshooting. I had the passenger side actuator go out my 93 Loyale. On my 92 Loyale the power locks would blow a fuse because the previous owner mounted after market speakers in the doors and one of the screw pierced the wiring.

There is no actuator on the driver side front door. Did you mean the master switch panel?

Rob you have to show up or I will be the only old fart out there.

If you want to disable the ac temporarily, there is a 15 amp fuse you can pull on the passenger side by the firewall where the ac pipes go into the evaporater.

"Experience keeps a dear school..." - Benjamin Franklin (google for the rest of the quote)

I am in Bremerton. What ferry will you be taking?

Does the new car have AC?

I will definitely stop by the booth. Thanks for being a sponsor.

Looks like a factory option. Nicely done.

The gear grinding sound at 3 am, followed by sounds of a stalling car and whispered cuss words are your clues your car is being stolen.

I will tell you an easy way. On the starter near the back there is a small wire with a spade connector. Disconnect that wire. If someone "hot wires" the car it will only make clicking noises.

And exactly how does one persuade a Tom cat to do his business in the intake? Sometimes it can be a chore to get the cat trained to hit the litter box.

I don't like plastic radiators either. My Loyale UNO had the stock plastic radiator leak after 42K miles. Subaru refused to cover ut as the warranty was 40K miles.

The fact of the matter is that you will probably spend more on hiring a mechanic than either what the car is worth or what you payed for it. Maybe you got lots of cash lying around, I don't know. If you do then good for you. Otherwise I recommend you learn wrenching.

On my white sedan Uno I have Michelin defenders. As pavement pounders, I think they are the best tire I have owned. Excellent grip in wet, dry and good winter performance too. If you aren't going to get bigger tires, why did you do the lift? For off road I prefer BFG T/A KM2. Got them on my truck and that is what will be going under my red sedan after I get the lift installed. It sounds like you are looking for a more general 90% pavement 10% offroad if that, kind of tire. The tire you get is more related to the kind of driving you want to do. The tires are the most fundamental and most important choice for good driving performance. Match the tire for the task and it will always put a smile on your face.

Grab Grant and make him do it.