MR_Loyale

Dressed up properly with that new grill too. I like it.

Probably was the crank angle sensor like GLoyale said in post #8. In the optical version a finely slotted disk spins on the distributor shaft with an optical emitter/detector unit hovering over the slotted disc a bit like a brake caliper on a disc brake. This results in a waveform to the ECU that correlates to the crank angle. Not sure if that is the version in your car though, just the one I am most familiar with.

The only time I experienced bucking on my Loyale, it was an Oxygen Sensor. But it threw a code.

Are those Brussel Sprouts growing out of his beard?

I found this about P034: A code P0304 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty spark plug or wire Faulty coil (pack) Faulty oxygen sensor(s) Faulty fuel injector Burned exhaust valve Faulty catalytic converter(s) Running out of fuel Poor compression Defective computer If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0304 A way to eliminate the injector as the possible cause would be to swap the number 4 with a different one (if it is MPFI). Be sure to get all new seals and O-rings if you take the injectors out.

It is refreshing to see good parenting making a comeback!

Yep that hose is a pain in the ***. Thing is they don't seem to leak at idle so if you look while it idles, no leak. Rev the engine and it leaks.

Check out row52.com I am sure there are EA82's at the Portland yard. http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JF1AC422XNC206424

Miles Fox made the gold standard video series on how to do this. Give it a watch:

I am glad it finally arrived. I sent it out on Dec 23rd. Looking forward to your threads on CANBUS and OBDII troubleshooting adventures. Lots of learning ahead!

If your distributor is the optical pickup style, you can open it up and clean the wheel and sensor with electronic cleaner. Just remove the screw on the dust plate(Don't disassemble beyond that point to ensure nothing is messed up). I did this last summer to mine when I had the engine out. I don't have any misfires. Of course I cleaned mine up for my trip this past summer.

I just think that EA82 engines (non-turbo) are hard to kill. Their performance may degrade, but they still chug along.

Checking the coil and grounds is a good place to start.

Check the motor mounts.

Check the connector on the blower motor itself. I had mine turn crispy and wouldn't run the motor and had to be replaced.

You can also take the blower motor off, spray a bunch up in there and then put the blower motor back and run on high to circulate it through the system.

Parts car AS IS. Caveat emptor. You told him it was a parts car. You never promised the engine would run. How do you know it wasn't a good engine and HE did something to ruin it? He won't be out too much anyway even if he just scraps it. You shouldn't engage him any more on this because it is leading him to the belief he will get a refund. Just politely state it was an AS IS sale. Wish him luck and bid him adieu. Folks, in the future always mark AS IS on the receipt.

The hill holder cable is right on the same mechanism where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch fork. (You need to remove the spare tire to see it. You can back it out a few turns. See number 9 in the diagram below:

Just a correction. A properly adjusted hill holder does not prevent you from rolling backwards down a hill if that is your desire. Simply let up on the clutch and the hill holder (properly adjusted mind you) disengages. The properly adjusted hill holder is activated only when the clutch is depressed and then the brake is pressed and released while still holding down the clutch pedal. Releasing the clutch disengages the properly adjusted hill holder. I find the hill holder useful on a steep Seattle hill when the car behind is 1 inch from the bumper at the stop light.

What did you have in their before?

That's odd. If I disconnect the mass airflow sensor on my Loyale, the car immediately dies.

You master switch unit could be going bad too. I did a writeup on fixing this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149642-power-window-master-swich-fix/

Yeah my snow tires too have studs and it always sounds like you are on gravel. But they grip very well. Tires are the most basic and important thing you have one your car that affects the ride.

The Yakima style is what I am after. Do folks usually buy them new, from the J/Y or craigslist? How much should I expect to pay for such a rack?