MR_Loyale

Working on the power door locks on Ash, my red sedan. Was blowing fuses instantly. Took off all the door panels to unplugs the actuators. Two on the passenger side had mounting screws that would not come out so I had to drill them out. After disconnecting all the actuators, turns out the switch in the driver door was the issue. Cleaned the connection up as it looks like it took a bath in dirty dielectric grease. Cleaned it up and it stopped blowing fuses. Must have been a conductive grease the PO put in there as none of the actuator connectors looked like that. Got both driver side doors reassembled and also greased the power window mechanism. Now I still got the passenger side to do. Before I can do that though, I have to remove the remains in one mounting screw from each of the actuators in the passenger side doors. Never used an EZ-OUT before. Hope I don't screw it up.

Where is your sedan version?????

It sounds as though your clutch fork is not fully engaging the release bearing against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch from the flywheel. Thus your input shaft is still being driven while you are attempting to shift. Cable adjustment seems the likely culprit. Check to make sure you didn't forget a spacer nut or something when you put the clutch cable back on. Did you take pictures of the clutch cable attachment before you did the swap?

What is the deal with cutting a tree (permits and such)?

This should help:

You are doing a fantastic job IMHO. It isn't how long it takes you, just that you see it to the end. It took me almost 4 months when I did mine and I had lots of fancy tools such as the engine stand and hoist. You are out there on your own turning bolts with 25 years of greasy crap hitting you in the eye. Slow and steady your first time doing it is a great way to ensure success the first time. On the clutch, I had to adjust mine quite a bit so I reckon you will have to do the same. Great job so far, keep going you are almost there! One day you will tell your kid the story about how important it is to make sure the transmission has the proper fluid level.

Nice writeup Jeszek. I thought about changing them out to square ones but I found the round ones online from densoproducts.com. Less than $7 each and they even included a free three pack of nitrile gloves. The wiring is still good and I would have to make new mounting for square ones. So i just went ahead with what was there. It seems to work,

Thanks for clarifying, you are correct. The thing that threw me were the schematics on this. No where do they state that it is the left hand relay, just call it the "lighting relay". Here is the schematic I was working off of: The bottom is chopped off here but the fuse 6 circuit goes to the tail and marker light via the combo switch. Of course there is a schematic for the headlights too: I found the green relay (see below) to control the driver side headlights and the illumination as you stated. Was there another schematic I should have seen that pointed this out or should the relay in the first diagram really be labeled "Left lighting relay"? Here is a pic of the roundie relays we are talking about:

Can I ask where you got it?

Running light issue solved. Turned out to be a fuse. I had passed it with just a visual inspection. Upon using the test light, turns out the fuse was bad. Never had a fuse look perfect but be bad. Never overlook the basics I guess. Next issue will be the power door locks that blow the fuse. Hope it isn't wet this weekend. Oh and the "main lighting relay" is the one with the black base. he headlight relays are the blue and green base ones I believe.

Ok got it figured out. It was the fuse. In my previous attempts, I merely visually inspected the fuse. I swear it looks perfect. But after I got down to basic troubleshooting 101 starting from the lighting relay, then I hit the fuse and no power on the other end with ignition ON. Bingo. Also, the black base relay socket is the "main lighting relay" and it is separate from the headlight relays. It is energized when the ignition is turned to ON. Glad I did not have to go after the combination switch! It would have been a bitch.

Both switches are bad (Combination switch and parking rocker on column)? I replaced all four roundie relays with new ones. I didn't realize the illumination was run off the LH light relay. Originally my problem was that the driver side HL worked but passenger side was dim. Replaced all relays fixed the issue and now the cluster illumination and the running lights won't come on for either the combination switch or the parking rocker on the column. More troubleshooting is needed.

Does anyone know where the "main lighting relay" is located on a Loyale (92 Sedan, SPFI 4WD)? I cannot find this relay. Running lights and dash illumination is out. All fusable links test OK. Not even the park light switch on the column will turn them on.

Nice!!!

The only time I had a wild bucking horse of a car was when my O2 sensor went bad. But you should have a Check Engine Light for that UNLESS the previous owner disconnected it. Try removing the panel where the steering column meets the dash, turn the key to ON without starting it and see if there is a small red light blinking. This is OBDI and sends the codes via blinking lights in long flashes followed by short flashes. Long flashes are the first digit of the code and the short flashes are the second digit. You can find the meaning of the codes here: http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

There are so many wonderful places to visit in the country I think if I ever won the lottery I would just become a road warrior in my Loyale with travels of wanderlust. How many times do we have "somewhere to be" and pass by interesting destinations we would have loved to see? I want to detour and see all of them.

You certainly are! Google maps doesn't let you put in more than a certain amount of destinations so I had to do two trip maps and splice them together. When you left that night I heard your tires squeal and thought you were showing off or something. I learned different the next morning when I had to get on it just to merge into the traffic, made my tires squeal too!

Nice. I too took a trip across the country this summer in my 1993 Loyale I have owned for 20 years. I bought it new in 1994. I basically circumnavigated the country. My odometer was approximately 160,750 miles when I left. It was 173,098 when I got back. So the approximate mileage of the trip was 12,348 miles in less than 40 days. The trip included the most Northern City in the US (Carribou maine) and the southern most point (Key West FL). Here is a map of my trip: I left from Bremerton Washington on Aug 14th and arrived back on Sep 16th. I did a live thread of the trip, you can see here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/144924-help-me-plan-my-trip-across-america-in-my-loyale/page-3

Welcome. Wherabouts in E Wa?

I miss popup headights.

On the bright side you got a good basis for a build. The no rust part is probably the best aspect. You will learn lots about repairing old Subies, make lots of new friends and learned some life lessons along the way. Plus you got a great cautionary tale to tell your own kid when he gets wide eyed and wants to pounce on his own used car "deal". You probably got more useful life experience out of that $3000 than you'll get through book learning at any college for ten times that in tuition.

I didn't realize they even still made Rainier Beer. LOL.

Pics would be helpful.

Sounds like they are just guessing at your expense. The only thing I ever saw close to this situation was when a coolant temp sensor wire was not connected.