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Everything posted by MR_Loyale
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Crank Pulley seal ? W/ ? behind seal.
MR_Loyale replied to Dinky26's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Didn't the new seal come with a spring in it? -
Crank Pulley seal ? W/ ? behind seal.
MR_Loyale replied to Dinky26's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Really? Remove the spring from a brand new seal? I must have done things completely wrong then because I left the spring on my new front main seal when I put it in. -
Replace clutch, or get an Automatic Trans.?
MR_Loyale replied to Subaruist's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
An automatic transmission is no cakewalk to install either. Usually you have to bolt up the torque converter to the engine through a small access window and then rotate the crank to reach each of the bolts. AT also typically are plumbed into the radiator so that is another potential point of failure for the cooling system. AT are more complex than the manual transmission from a maintenance point of view. -
Right rear rumbling, shocks?
MR_Loyale replied to MR_Loyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Just read online that you are supposed to change your shocks every 50K miles. Mine are the original ones at over 160K. Update: Got shocks replaced, rumble is gone. I'd say I got my money's worth out of hose shocks. They were the originals installed in 1992! -
Right rear rumbling, shocks?
MR_Loyale replied to MR_Loyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
We are talking about the 2wd Sedan Uno. Tires were balanced and rotated last Sat. How should I check the strut mounts? I looked at the strut and tried to see if it had play and couldn't find any. If the mount is bad does it need to be welded? -
I still get some rumbling from the right rear tire when I go over bumps. Sometimes at highways speeds if the road is rough the rumbling seems to go for quite a bit. Checked the wheel for play, there was none. Took it off anyway and repacked the bearings. Verified again, no play in the wheel. Bearings seemed fine. Anyone ever have this symptom before?
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GL, GL-10, Loyale Oil Filter Alert
MR_Loyale replied to scoobiedubie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
OK folks, I WAS JOKING about the Fram. I am not that dumb. Well not always. -
GL, GL-10, Loyale Oil Filter Alert
MR_Loyale replied to scoobiedubie's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Buy a Fram. You want "the good stuff". -
Ok, first issue since the Uno build. I was so concentrated on the engine that I neglected the wheels. I was driving 30 around a 25 corner, slightly fast i know, but as I went around the turn my rear wheels rumbled as if they were skipping out because of my speed. Took it home and lifted up each rear wheel and tried moving them to see if there was slack. The driver side had a little so I replaced the bearings. It was not easy finding anyone that had a seal in stock. I then took off the passenger side bearings and repacked them as the wheel seemed to get a little too warm. Just got back from a 40 mile drive with lots of highway and no heating and no more skipping. Tomorrow the brakes will be verified and adjusted as needed. Now at 525 since first start.
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Excellent thread. Gonna lift my Loyale Ash probably in the fall when I return and I appreciate all the folks reporting their results. I will make it a bit easier for those that follow.
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Make sure the transmission is in gear so the splines do not move as you rotate the crank.
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Take good care of it and it will do the same for you.
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I feel you could improve your prospects if you simply took the time to glue the body molding back on. Also your CL pics show a drooping front bumper whereas your ones here show a shiny aligned bumper. First impressions are often the difference between a sale and a pass. Go look online at dealer lots hat are selling Loyales. Most have given them the spit shine. You may be over on the price but your really only have to find one sucker uh er buyer, not 10. Clean it so it sparkles. No missing body panels, no misaligned panels no mismatched panels. Just my opinion.
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Nice find. Now get it inside so the elements don't ruin it.
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Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo. (sniff) Um, is it too soon to ask if you are parting it out? I mean uh er my condolences.
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Ok boys and girls, don' be like me. ALWAYS disconnect the battery if you are going to swap alternators. You might fry your fusible link and they are a pain to find. No auto parts stores seem to have the 1.25 fusible link.
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I had a dream so big and loud I jumped so high I touched the clouds Whoa-Oh-Oh-Oh-Oh-Oh-Oh
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Wow. Very nice. Did you use actual wood veneers on the steering wheel or plastic look a like? Looks like a nice burl of some sort.
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F those damn corps that ship the jobs off shore to unstable countries and then when the unstable countries have a coup, they come crying to the US government to send those same folks they sent to the unemployment line in to risk their lives rescuing their property. Start holding your lawmakers accountable people! Forget democrats and republicans - THEY ARE ALL THE SAME. Only out for themselves. Be the thorn in their side. Ok, rant off.
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Well I took the overheating alternator back to Autozone and the girl at the counter brought out another reconditioned "new" one. Then a male employee came over and tried to talk me out of it being bad claiming that the bearings would be making noise and such. It was triple checked at the factory he said. Yeah, I guess in Malaysia they may have thought Triple Sec not triple check cause this one I KNEW was bad damnit. I told him to put it on his tester and I followed him there and all three of us, the female and male employee and myself watched as the girl loaded the alternator on the tester. It spun up and reported it was BAD on the screen. Voltage too high. Now I could have been a pain and claimed it damaged components being bad but I didn't know that for sure. I asked them to put the new one on the tester to so I didn't waste my time. It checked out OK. I grabbed the swapped one and asked the girl to put her battery tester on my battery to test it out. Honestly I was prepare to buy a new battery, I wanted to buy one. She tested it and declared it good so I hopped in Uno and drove back home. I installed the alternator and it did not get hot. But the issue was still there just not as intense. So I thought of vacuum leaks. I sprayed around with carb cleaner and on one of the throttle body gaskets, I got an idle change. So I tightened down the screws and the problem got better but not completely gone. So Next I poured a bit of Berrymans cleaner in the IAC and let it sit for a few minutes. Started the car and it seemed even better but still had the issue. The last thing I did was replace the fuel filter because I had a bunch when Rock Auto had a sale. They won't age like wine, so I put it in. Then I took a 50 mile drive and it all seemed much better. No hints of idle stalling at stops etc. To summarize: This was a multi-cause issue. No single thing fixed it. - Bad reman alternator. - Intake gasket leak - Fuel filter Hope his helps any one else experiencing this issue.
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Here is a top shot of the finished engine.
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I got some new parts for the install of the engine - all Genuine OEM.