MR_Loyale

I still got my old head bolts if anyone wants em for free. Got the intake bolts too.

What Subruise said. Miles Fox made a handy dandy series of videos doing just that. Begin at the begin:

Yeah I thought about the screwdriver in the flywheel hole but I think it would mar the bell housing. I think it would work if you don't mind a divet in the bell housing.

I put the engine in Uno and didn't tighten the crank bolt to torque. Though it runs, I know this is just waiting to fall off at an inopportune moment. Does anyone have a clever way to stop the crank from moving while torquing this? I know I can put it into gear but it still has some play. I guess I am interested in something like the Subaru wheel stopper tool that holds the flywheel solid. Thought to build one myself actually because I hate to buy one time use tools like that. Any ideas to stop the flywheel while tightening the crank bolt? Should I also add some thread locker or will that make future removal too had?

I will do that. Thanks.

The battery is over 6 yr old I know that. I will do that today.

OK. I switched in the alternator from my other Loyale and it still did it. The alternator was just purchased 5 days ago from Autozone so it is going back to them. But I do think that alternator was a part of the problem. I also have replaced the coil with a new one and the issue seems to happen still but not as intensely. Could this be a vacuum leak that only shows when it is hot?

Mine is spfi and the CAS is in the distributor. It is an optical pickup so not much to go wrong there.

I was out driving Uno today and it began to act up on me. At random times the tach would momentarily drop down as if the engine was going to die. I had seen this very very rarely before the build, so I am confident the build has nothing to do with it. And if it had stayed a rare problem I would have ignored it. But today after about 10 minutes of driving, suddenly the engine quit, no power steering nothing. I was thinking the crank bolt came off because that happened to me in 2006 and the symptoms are similar. So I pulled over and checked and the crank bolt was secure. I do need to properly torque it though or it will come off. I felt the alternator housing and it was super hot I burned my hand. Not sure how hot that should be but it seemed like it was overheating. I let it cool and after 10 minutes, started it up and drove quickly home. I let it cool for three hours a home and then came out and started the engine. I put my hand on the side of the alternator and within 20 seconds I could feel it getting too hot to touch. Is this normal? I started Ash and his alternator didn't do that. It stayed cool to the touch even after 5 minutes of running. New cap, rotor, spanky new Subaru wire set (all as of today. Everything else original. I am thinking it could also be the coil shorted out too. Has anyone else seen this tach jumping behavior before? Seems to only do it after it gets warmed up.

At 12:21 am Thursday July 31, 2014 Uno took his first revs. Took a small drive and then put him away for the night.

First Start Achieved at 12:21 am Thursday July 31. This is approximately t minus two weeks till the trip. But it wasn't "turn the key and go". No there was drama. I spent the last two days putting everything back in, polishing, painting. I had taken Tues and Wed off work to do only this. I had decided I was going to finish tonight if it killed me. It darn near did by the aches of my back. After everything is hooked up, oil added, coolant filled, I put in the battery. Immediately the power door locks activate because of my remote keyless system. Uno lives! I hop in and turn the key. The first time the fuel pump goes for almost 30 seconds to bring the system up to pressure. I wait and wait and then turn the key. Click click click. Try again. Click click click. WF??!??? Maybe the battery is bad from sitting two months. I had put it on the charger but who knows? It is at least five years old. So I swapped it into Ash and Ash starts right up. The battery is not the issue with Uno. Next I look at the battery cable ends. They are rather corroded. Perhaps they aren't delivering enough current for the starter. So I hop in Ash and dash off to Walmart at 10:47 PM. They now close at 11PM. I buy these new-fangled "no corrode" ends and dash back to the house. I put them on and try again. Click click click. Ok, so it must be the starter, right? So I am prepared to swap Ash's starter into Uno. I take off both the nut and the bolt and turn the started over o remove it. Just then I notice a small spade connector on the starter and think to myself "this is odd". Then I glance at the wiring and see the dangled wire that is supposed to go there and plug it in next to the positive starter post. Bolt the starter back in place. This time I am sure I found the issue. I hop in and on the first turn Uno fires up and immediately revs to 3K and the lifters and makes the loudest clanking I ever heard. By now it was well past bed time and I am sure all the neighbors heard the racket. I figured the high rev would kick down after a minute or so. I let it run for a minute or two and it doesn't go down. I tap on the gas to kick it down and it doesn't go. As I am looking at the tach, I see smoke rolling out under the hood so I immediately shut off the engine. I felt a sick feeling of dread as I got out of the car to investigate. By this time smoke is barreling out of the engine bay and I am wondering if the car will ever drive again. Looking under, I see it coming off the exhaust. Nowhere ion the engine but the exhaust is billowing. It doesn't smell like oil burning. I have become well acquainted that smell. It smells almost metallic but not quite. So I wait for 10 minutes while things cool off. checking the coolant I add some as it has taken up what I filled into the radiator. I squeeze the upper hose to burp the system. I looked at the throttle linkage and the cable was adjusted tight so that is why the 3K on startup.I adjust it back down and start it up once agai. It fires right up and idles about right. I can tell the lifters (HLA) have changed their sound so the oil mus be flowing. After 5 minutes of running, again smoke billows out from the cat area. I think about it and realize that the power steering lines gave me a fit when mounting the two overlapping "feet" on the passenger subframe. Many cusswords were used while doing this. However some of the fluid dripped out while I was doing this. So the atf dexron must be the cause of the smoke. . However just for caution I shut off the engine and checked to see if anything looked wrong. Nothing burned, nothing on fire. I wait until the smoke subsides and then start it again and this time I put it in gear and drive off the ramps. It still needs the timing done, but I am too tired now. Tomorrow I will do the timing and upload some more pics on the engine bay. I must say that it came out better than I had planned. Once the timing is done, it will be time for a mini road trip to do a shakedown.

After spending Monday evening prepping the engine, the last thing I did was set the timing belts and then the distributor. Tuesday morning I had to prep, clean and paint a corroded battery holder as well as enamel some remaining bits. I also prepped the compressor without removing it from the engine bay. Bless us for that which we are about to receive... The very beginning had a similar picture to this one, except now it is going into the car and not out of it.

Not quite yet. I have to do the timing belts and then put it in the car, attached the cables, hoses and elctrical. But I am hopeful.

Slowly creeping towards the finish line. Installed new exhaust studs on Uno's engine. Since it was on the stand, I just flipped it rather than wait until it was in the car and crawl on my back. Finally bolted in the bling too. After the bling is installed, we do not handle the engine without a clean pair of surgical gloves. I have come to realize that when you detail every bit, cleaning rust and coating etc, it takes a hell of a lot longer than you planned.

Sadly no first startup this weekend. Got the transmission ready with the cam carrier and all, rear main seal, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Intake and little stuff as well as the covers are on. But I have learned that when you are detailing as you go, plan for things to take 5 times as long as you must clean every little bit, removing dirt and rust and coating as necessary. I am content with the progress. My trip is in less than three weeks so this is cutting it a bit short, but the end product will be fabulous. It is my vision and more than I envisioned. I am happy with the looks so far: I got new exhaust studs and since the engine was on the stand, I flipped it over to install: More progress

Front bumper. This may help: The writeup of the procedure is here: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Subaru-Coupes-Sedans-Wagons-1985-1996-Repair-Guide/EXTERIOR/Bumpers/_/P-0900c15280067754

Today was productive. The clutch fork, bearing carrier and release bearing are installed along with the clutch cable. The transmission is now ready for an engine. I also spent this last week working on the intake sprucing it up. It started out like this: The after cleanup and mounting on the engine, it looks like this:

Got the clutch fork and release bearing carrier installed. Had to do some sanding on the shaft because there was some sealant in between the halves and that oblonged it enough to make the carrier travel stiff. The transmission cable is hooked up and it awaits an engine. Installed the intake on the engine, hoses clamps and a bunch of little crap here and there. Tonight I will put on the flywheel, cluthc and plate. Then the belts, engine mounts and cam covers. My neighbor volunteered to help me grunt and cuss and swear while jiggling the engine to the transmission. Then after hoses, connectors, radiator, fan and fluids are added, it should be ready for startup. It is starting to look like a real engine.

I am close to starting up my EA82 that has been apart for head work and such. It occurred to me that just filling the radiator with coolant would leave the engine sucking air for a while until it circulates. Is there a ways to ensure there is coolant in the block immediately upon first startup? Add via thermostat housing perhaps? Or am I making an issue out of nothing?

Yeah but those were both internal Subaru projects. They had to be brought kicking and screaming to do the BRZ. They already have a turbo BRZ engine only it is in the Forester.

Thanks!

What is the stuff called you put on the intake thread of the bolts that go through water passages? I canot recall the name. I think it is anti-seize. Will this work? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Permatex-1-oz-28-35-g-anti-seize-lubricant/_/N-25qx?itemIdentifier=526814_0_0_

Just so I am clear on this. What are the two tools?

Got the oil pump and new Subaru water pump installed into UNO today. Puting the intake back together and will install it, the rear main sea, flywheel and pressure plate tomorrow. Then sat the timing belts and motor mounts. Engine should be back in car sat evening with first startup on Sunday.

Welcome.