MR_Loyale

Got the replacement front main seal and it is in. If a job is worth doing, it is worth doing correctly. Work continues on the intake. Got 4 bolts, 2 others to come in. Also I decided an oil pump reseal would be nice too so got to order my mickey gasket tomorrow as well.

Before you buy any used vehicle, get it inspected by a mechanic.

You mean the heater core? It is really a combination of cranking the blower to remove debris that is between the core and the vent grills (that is what blows out the vents) or if the debris is before the core, remove the blower motor and go after it that way or maybe from the cowling area if you got a small enough hose to hook to a vacuum. Finally what may be left gets a good dose of bleach and the ammonia smell is neutralized. Thus the thread is about how to get rid of the smell, not how to get all the debris. It is the alternative to radical dash-ectomy. If debris removal is your goal, then you need to look at radical dash dis-assembly if the vacuum doesn't work. Good luck.

Oh the humanity! Please just tell me it went to digi dash heaven.

You don't like your Digidash? Can I have it?

Yes it can be done. I watched Miles Fox do it. Google his videos.

Google Miles Fox. His videos are the gold standard for EA82.

I think I made that clear when I talked about baking the coatings on the parts on the barbeque. Besides, art projects are allowed in the living room.

How To Get Rid of The Mouse Pee Smell For Good DISCLAIMER: The author assumes no liability for any actions a reader may perform after reading this article. The reader by virtue of reading the material agrees to hold harmless he author, the website, website owner and any other persons. This procedure involves potential contact with biological (mouse pee and infested bedding) and chemical agents. If you do not agree to these conditions, close the web browser immediately and logoff. I recently acquired a wonderful 1992 Loyale Sedan with 4wd 5MT. The body is in great shape and while it has some electrical issues, it is mostly without big problems. Mostly I say because there is/was a dirty secret in this new Loyale I have named Ash. It has had mice in it! Yes, those filthy little vermin that we only care to see in cartoon form as a kid. They got into the vents and when you hit that heat button you get a face full of mouse pee and occasionally the bit of nesting material flies out the vent. Some have torn apart the dash in order to rid themselves of this problem. I thought about that but then thought better. With some well placed dis-assembly and a little bit of chemistry you can both decontaminate and eliminate that urine smell and once again turn on the heater. The first step is to get rid of what mouse bedding you can find. The reason is that our sense of smell is keenly attuned to that nasty urine odor and the slightest bit of urine soaked bedding will keep you wheezing and gagging every time you turn on that heater or AC. Step One - Remove the Cowling. It is either a snap as shown below or screws. Note how big the slots are in those cowlings. If you were a mouse you'd say "woohoo!". Vacuum out any bedding you see here. Below is a pic of where the air comes in on the passenger side. Step Two- remove the vent grills. The vent grills inside the cabin pivot on two plastic dowels. Using needle nose pliers or a flat screwdriver, gently pry one side until the dowl comes out of its hole. Pull forward slightly and then rotate the vent grill down as if to put air at the ground. Twist out. This is an important step because we want all the nasty crap to blow out if possible, not clog our vents. Step Three - Cover The Seats Using plastic sheeting or garbage bags cover your seats. We will be having the bedding material blow out and putting it on the seat isn't any good. Step Four - Warm Up car Roll down all the windows. Nasty things are about to happen, this likes of which your children should not see. It will give them nightmares and only you should be the one with the nightmares. Put on face masks and gloves. No seriously. Mouse droppings can have the Hanta virus and make you sick. Start the car and let it warm up but do not turn on the heat or ac yet. Step five - Exorcism From outside the car, while it is running, reach over to the controls and crank the heat and stand back to see what flies out. When the debris stops coming out go back and slide the temp selector up and down vigorously. If more crap comes out, stand back and let it come out. Repeat this process until the bedding material can no longer be made to come out. It may take up to 20 times doing this as the bedding gets caught in the temp adjustment baffling and has to be dislodged. You will know it is empty if you have the blower on full blast and you can slide the temp adjuster up and down rapidly at least 30 times and no more bedding comes out. Be sure to be violent while moving the selector slamming it from one extreme to the other. This causes vibrations that will loosen the bedding. Step Six - Fumigation. So now we got all the bedding material out, but there is still a urine smell because it has soaked into the plastics and any small amount will make us gag. So now we need to neutralize the odor. Sterilizing the ducts is helpful too. In order to fumigate, you will need to spray a solution into the duct intakes until it is literally saturated. As a precaution, remove your stereo so it doesn't get ruined. NOTE: The following procedure is dangerous. Proceed at your own risk. Get a clean spray bottle. By clean I mean so clean you can drink out of it. We are going to do some chemistry and we can only get the reaction we need if the chemicals are pure. In that spray bottle, fill it to the top with bleach. Use pure bleach, not a watered down solution. These are desperate measures, remember the mouse pee for the love of God! A principle component of mouse pee is ammonia. This is the primary smell we get when we smell urine. Bleach neutralizes the ammonia smell. However it can produce some dangerous fumes such as hydrochloric acid, chloramine vapor and oh yeah hydrazine. In its pure form that stuff can explode. The quantities here are so small there is little danger of explosion but the chloramine gas can make you sick if you sit there inhaling it. Don't sit there and inhale it. Be like Bill Clinton and don't inhale. Well don't sit in the car either while this is going on. You can learn more about how bleach and ammonia react by this link: http://chemistry.about.com/od/toxicchemicals/a/Mixing-Bleach-And-Ammonia.htm I said this could be dangerous. If this makes you too nervous to continue, you may use vinegar as your fumigating solution. Now with the car turned off, you want to spray as much of that pure bleach or vinegar (whichever you chose to use) firstly into the intake at the cowling. Then saturate as far back as you can get into the ducts from inside the car. Let them sit for 10 minutes to soak. Stay away from the car during this time. Leave the windows down. Keep kids and pets away. After 10 minutes, come back to the car, start it and get it up to temperature. Do not sit in it while it is coming to temp. Crank the heat on full blast or the AC as you prefer. Sometimes mouse urine only affects one or thr other, By now you know which is the worst, set it there. Let the blower run for 10 minutes. The with mask and gloves on, using the spray bottle with your solution, mist the intake cowling. Not a spritz but a damn good soaking. We want lots of continuous vapor to flow through the vents to disinfect and neutralize that mouse pee. Let the car run with the windows down and blower blasting for at least 10 minutes or more. STAY AWAY during this time. Do this spray and run procedure two more times to completely eliminate the odor. It may be needed a few more times depending upon the infestation. Let the car sit with the windows down for 3 hours or overnight if necessary. Repeat as needed. NOTE: If you notice a white residue coming out of your vents, it is the dried up bleach solution. Take a damp towel and wipe it up immediately. If left on the dash, it can stain. Wipe up with damp towel. Reinstall vent grills.

Baked up some more parts and fitted them to the engine while the intake is on my living room table being dissected and cleaned.

Well this morning I fixed the dangling power window switch on that rear driver side door. As usual for the poor design, the bosses holding the mounting screw crumbled. I was going to epoxy it but I rummaged around my nuts and screws drawer in the garage and found to longer screws that would work by reaching and tapping into the remains of the bosses. The maser switch control bank on the driver door only makes the windows go down not up. I am sure that is the telltale clue of a broken wire and should enable me to find the wire in the schematic.

Were those Felpro or Subaru HG?

Castrol.

Google Mile Fox videos. He did this very thing.

First crank will be delayed by a week. Tonight while trying to install the front main seal, I go it cockeyed and upon trying to remove it to reposition it, I damaged it. So I wait until Monday to order two more (in case I mess that one up).

Tonight I hopped into Ash and mistakenly rolled down the driver side passenger window. It would no go up and guess when it decides to start raining? Here I am in the rain trying to get this thing working. i took the panel off in the rain and sprayed wd40 in the rollers. It works reliably now. Oh and of course the poorly designed switch in back in dangling on panel because the bosses that the screws go into busted off- just like they did in UNO two years ago. Looks like will have to employe the same fix- epoxy fill and hole re-drill.

I was very conscientious about the pcv changed it regularly. The coolant prob every 5 years. Got lots of pics of the heads and block so you can see the condition for yourself. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147673-uno-my-first/?p=1239480

One crank bolt golden brown. Who ordered this?

If your honey asks what you are doing the kitchen, just reply "Baking something special" and hope she isn't in the mood for fresh baked bread.

Good god I hope not! I'll let you know! If it does, you will see another thread posted "How to strip down your cam sprockets".

I cook burgers on that barbecue too. But not at the same time as the cam sprockets. I was hygienic too - see I covered it with foil.

I decided to spray my cam sprockets to match my engine. I had cleaned and scrubbed all the dirt from the aluminum block but it does tarnish and without heroic efforts, I just wouldn't get that shiny "new" look as it was originally 20 years ago. Of course I am using engine enamel. Cheap Krylon not meant for engines will last all of about 8 month before it peels due to the heat of the engine. A requirement of the engine enamel is that it be heated to 200 F in order to harden the coating. No problem for the engine block, just drive the car. But for other parts like the cam sprockets, if they are getting up to 200 F then your engine is on fire. SO of course you will need to "cook" them at 200 F for one hours, as it states on the can, in order to get a durable finish. Being a bachelor, I could certainly just turn on the oven in the house. But for the sake of you married and cohabiting mechanics, I urge you not to do so for you will suffer the wrath of "the other". What is a good self respecting man to do? That's right, fire up the barbecue! Amazingly, the rules for "cooking" are similar to those used in regular baking (at least with the VHT product). Low and slow for a light finish such as silverish aluminum. If you crank up the burners you get a golden brown color. You can see below I "overcooked" my cam sprocket. I kind of like it even it if is a bit ricer like: I used the exact same paint on the block as on the sprocket. The only difference is the temp used to cook them. I used both burners on high. This was probably closer to 500 F than 200. The engine hasn't been started yet so it hasn't gotten warm. I guess it is also a way to visually tell if I overheat the engine. My block will turn to gold.

With the synthetic, are you extending the change intervals? My Loyale started life with regular oil and 3mo/3K changes until 120K miles. Inside the cam tower was very clean to that point as I have pics of when I did the timing belt (w/engine out of the car) I took off the covers. A beautiful light tan tint with no dirty residue. From 120K until 160K i switched to synthetic and 5-6K intervals. Now I am at the end of head gasket replacement and i can tell without a doubt the engine was the most filthy I have seen. Black dirty deposits in the cam tower area. Had it all cleaned up and I am going back to 3mo/3K intervals and standard oil. I cannot say for sure if it was the long interval or the synthetic. I suspect the interval more though.

I bet you have accidentally enabled the "trunk cancel" latch inside the trunk. Open the trunk with the key and look at where the latch catch is located. You will see a label. The latch must be OFF to disable the handy dandy "trunk canceller". Not sure why they put it in there, but it has caught me a few times. I even started taking off interior panels thinking it was a bound cable or something. Here isa pic from my other sedan, Ash: In the pic above, the feature is enabled meaning the front trunk release lever will not operate unless I turn the "trunk canceller" off.

You are correct. My memory must be going. Emailed Subaru and they said it came with 10W40. I do recall my father convinced me to switch to 10W30 which I have been using for most of the cars life.