MR_Loyale

Timing belt is off or timing is off?

I went to the show as well. I think I counted about 7 people over 30 there including myself lol. Finally had a chance to check out and sit in a BRZ and WRX. I was surprised at the amount of room in the BRZ. The engine bay wasn't as cramped as it appears in pictures. Didn't see much old school stuff there. There was an older Outback with an STI turbo engine in it.

Can I ask how much you paid him in total? If nothing else you can file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and ruin his reputation. Also a nasty yelp review is in order. Costs you nothing. Just state the facts, nothing more, nothing less as you have stated here. Also a call to your local TV station's consumer investigative reporter ought to at least cost him as much as he has cost you in incompetent "repair" work.

Are you going to the Subaru meet in Bremerton tomorrow? If so I can meet up with you and help you with it. http://www.bignorthwest.com/

I found the problem. I had to take out the hood release cable bracket in order to find the other connector. It is a three wire inline connector one side has pink wires, the other blue wires. I connected them and it works. I suspect the connector was originally loose and it finally came apart. It was behind the kick panel on the driver side. Not sure if that is the same thing on the passenger side, but it might be worth a look.

My driver side auto seatbelt (93 Loyale Sedan) has been erratic lately sometimes working sometimes not. Usualy a kick to the driver side panel got it working. Now it doesn't move at all. I cannot find a wiring diagram for them and am not sure what connector or wire it is. Rather than tearing it apart to trace it out, I was wondering if someone had a wiring diagram or could tell me the wires to trace.

Extended warranties are seldom worth the money. Consumer Reports recommends against them. http://news.consumerreports.org/money/2009/07/usfidelis-car-repair-warranty-avoid-1077-complaints-nascar-rusty-wallace-better-business-bureau-bbb-.html

Got a Haynes manual?

BR - don't beat yourself up too badly. It is an easy mistake to make. Chalk it up to the school of experience. Now you got a beer drinkin tale to tell at WCSS.

What is the engine in that? If EA81, here is a rebuilt replacement with a warranty: http://www.ccrengines.com/id11.html

Absolutely. I am much more impressed with folks who can keep the "antiques" running and use them everyday than rich folks who throw em away every 5 years. I have had the same Subaru for the last 20 years from brand new. I still love the way it looks. Yeah it is a sickness...

Car looks clean. If you have a place to work on it then you ought to try to fix it yourself. Lots of great help and advice here.

The thing is even if you took him to court and won the entire book value of the car, I suspect you'd be out several hundred bucks in the end. Someone step in and correct me if I am wrong here, but the replacement value for a 30 yr old Subaru GL is probably $1500 in the best condition. If it was a rare antiquity it might be worth the battle. How much do you have into this car as it stands? You probably have spent more than the book value of the car as it is and you have nothing to drive. Is this your only means of transport? If you have the space to work on it yourself, you would probably be better of attempting to do so. You probably can't break it any worse. If you are well off money-wise and the car has sentimental value you could haul it to another place but what is to say something else won't go wrong and they will want to charge you? At mechanic rates things can get spendy real fast. The thing is the car is, ahem let me put this delicately - is an antique. Nothing wrong with that, just that with cars this old things can and do go wrong. Is it a pristine show car or more of a Maynard (aka CARS)? I would hate to see you haul it from one place to another pouring thousands of dollars you cannot afford only to scrap it in the end.

I agree with this. If the mechanic steps up and takes responsibility then see what he will do. If he tries to make excuses there is always the legal solution.

1993 Loyale Sedan FWD SPFI. I am doing the groundwork for a remote keyless entry (RKE) system so I can press a button on the key fob and have the doors lock/unlock. As you know, the driver side door of the Loyale is considered a "master" in that opening with the key or moving the lock latch from the inside locks and unlocks the doors. There is no actuator in the driver's door. In order to accomodate my RKE system's lock/unlock feature, I need to put in an actuator and a resistive restive ground relay circuit so that I can trigger the lock and unlock with a negative pulse as that is what my RKE control module requires. Got all that? LOL. Here is a video describing the resistive rest at ground circuit I am going to be using: MY QUESTION: I have a pair of wires already run through the side of the door, through the door wiring boot to inside the car. Would it be best to mount the relay set inside the driver door (there is a hot wire in there according to my Haynes manual) and use the wire pair for the control signal (max 250ma). This would be the wires connected to terminal 86 in the video above. The advantage I can see here is that only a very small current would be running through the two wires. Disadvantage is that the relays would be subject to lots of mechanical shock from the door being opened and closed. OR Mount the relays under the dash and use the wire pair as power to drive the solenoid (probably 1-3 amps I am guessing though I haven't measured the amperage used when activating the solenoid). This would be the wires to terminal 30 in the video. The advantage I see here is that the relays wouldn't be subject to the mechanical shock of the first option. Disadvantage that a much larger current will be running thorough the wires. I am leaning towards the relays in the dash just for reliability but thought I would get opinions in case I missed anything.

Take him to court. He owes you a new engine. You'd have been better off having the three stooges work on your engine.

When I converted mine, I used a $44 Interdynamic kit (even came with a dvd) R12 to 34a kit from Walmart. Kit had the refrigerant with esther oil and stop leak. Only thing is you MUST evacuate the system using a vacuum pump. Just opening it up won't work. Vacuum pump will boil off any moisture. I did mine for an hour to be sure. http://www.walmart.com/ip/EZ-Chill-AC-Recharge-and-Retrofit-Kit/16888792

Harbor Freight has a vacuum pump and mainfold gauge set specifically for this. $170 for both. Prob won't get it done cheaper than that at a shop. If it ever needs redoing or any car AC, you will be set. http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html

The confusion in the OP is the word "ultimate". It means different things to different people. To some, ultimate means more power. To others is means more reliability. To me personally, the "ultimate" EA82 would be one where the HLA's never develop a tic, the rotor screw never came off, it never leaked oil, never leaked coolant, hoses never broke and always started no matter what. I don't need to climb rock walls vertically or show up Hummers by pulling them from the ditch. I don't care to race punks down the I5 zig zagging through traffic. Don't get me wrong, I am amazed at those that do that with their Subaru's(except the crazy racing ricers on the interstate), I just don't desire to do that with mine. Because the EA82 engine was never designed to be any of those things. It was designed to be an inexpensive, easy to service, modest engine for an inexpensive automobile. Mine still meets that design goal. When the time comes to rebuild mine, it will be exactly as stock when I bought it new. I still drive it daily and it meets my needs. Will a McClaren haul a family of 9? Does that make it a failure as a car? Can you tow your 32 foot boat across the country with a Lamborghini? How many yards of dirt can you haul in a miata?

Website is up.

They make UV kits where you thoroughly clean the engine, put in the dye, run the engine and wherever there is a leak, the UV light will find it.

We'd neve get anything called JAPFEST allowed here. The PC crowd would shut it down in a heartbeat.

Check the screw on the rotor.

What is the machine shop you use? I will prob need a good shop this fall when I get my heads on my EA82 trued. I would prefer one that understands Subie and not some GM monkeys grinding on it.

Why does it do that? They didn't do that from the factory did they?