MR_Loyale

Oh sure, rub it in.

An audio or video would be helpful.

Or instead of a specific processor, a virtual processor P-Code such as is done with JAVA, but with better performance of course. That way the flavor of the month hardware becomes irrelevant as the only thing needed is the P-Code interpreter.

How are motor mounts?

Do I just need to have them replace the bushings?

That shaft in the first picture is a reman that Les Schwab installed in 2006. I still have the invoice. If you look closely at the angle on the struts from the first pic to the second, there is less angle on the second pic. I think the shaft is shorter, thus it explains why the tech claimed "my frame was bent" because the camber could not be adjusted within tolerances. He actually said it slanted out, which would be logical if the new shaft was shorter. it certanly doesn't look at all like the one that came off there.

This is a front wheel drive car. There is no AWD.

Does that axle look familiar to anyone? Maybe an Outback cv they put in or perhaps a rear axle. I had to keep on telling them this was a front wheel drive vehicle.

I think they put in the wrong axle. Here is the passenger side, the one they did not touch: Here is the one they put in. Notice the difference folds in the boot:

1993 Loyale Sedan, FWD pulls to the right on acceleration. Here are the clues: Took the car to Les Schwab to get the driver side axle replaced due to blown outer boot. Got the car back and it pulled to the right upon acceleration. Took it back in and they tried to claim that I had a bad motor mount or my rear brakes could be causing the problem saying they were sticking. I think this is bull crap. So they replaced the LEFT AXLE and it now does a hard right upon acceleration. Let off gas and it goes straight. Hit brakes and it goes straight. I know someone here knows exactly what they screwed up. I am clueless when it comes to front end suspension stuff, but I got a haynes book and can look for things if someone can direct me. Second clue: The tech tried to tell me my camber was out to tolerance as if my frame was bent according to his machine. He claimed it cambers outward when he tried to do the "alignment". He said to take it to a body shop to get the frame straightness checked. My car has never been in an accident. I know the frame is not bent uless they did something to crash it into the lift or something. What parts can I check to see what they missed/screwed up? The car did not do this prior to their repair. Steered straight as an arrow on acceleration.

Really? Reman axles blow in a year? I guess I cannot complain. I had a chance to get a new Subie oem axle but at over twice the cost. The other side has reman that is also at 46k but looks good. If I went new oem, I would want both done and that would be over $1200.

Check the set screw on the rotor. If it threw it off, get a new one or this will happen over and over at the worst times. Ask me how I know.

I wanted to ask everyone what sort of lifespan they get or expect to get out of cv axles. Just put my Loyale in for replacement of driver axle due to blown outer boot. This is the second replacement of this one which makes it number three. The initial factory axle lasted 101,000 miles. The second one is at 46,000 miles and 7 years of use. Is this normal lifespan for an aftermarket axle?

I had a similar situation with my Loyale. Fill the system with coolant(overflow tank to spec), start the engine, open the hood and manually rev the engine by pulling the throttle. Watch for any leaks when revving the engine. I had a leaking turbo bypass hose (for engines without turbos, this goes from the thermostat housing into the block, it is about 5 inches long 1/4" tubing or so. ) it would only leak under engine load when the pressure increased. The coolant would pool on the block and then when I come to a stop it is dripping down the engine seemingly from nowhere. Under engine rev, it pissed out coolant like a three yr old wetting his britches. Here is the pic: Hope this helps.

Seems like everyone has put in their two cents so I hope folks don't mind me joining in. I have owned the same number of automatics as I have manual vehicles. I prefer a manual for smaller cars and automatics for big things. Shifting a big old truck is not quite a joy as it is in my little Loyale. I live on two long hills I drive up and down every day. I use the compression braking to slow myself down on one long hill that is a mile long. I also use it part way on a steeper hill that is about 1/4 mile long. I tried my brakes alone on this hill (which ends nears the water where you will plunge to if you don't stop) and at the bottom I could almost not stop the car. Also, if anyone has ever been on Mt Walker in Kitap County, then you know the drive down that mountain you will definitely be compression braking as your brakes will be toast. They get real hot real fast- ask me how I know As for the clutch, if you don't do burnouts, then you should be OK with judicious compression braking - at least in my experience. I believe that the standard clutch is rated at about 100K miles or so. Mine made it to 117K and I replaced it on a timing belt/reseal cycle. It was slipping on rapid acceleration(no, I couldn't adjust it), could have still driven it by less aggresive acceleration, but it coincided with a timing belt replacement so I went for it. I expect every other timing belt will be a clutch too and I will pull the engine. When talking about repair costs etc, most of us here do the repairs ourselves, so shop rate isn't really an issue. I don't enjoy replacing clutches but I feel if a part has a stated life expectency, if you get the stated use out of it, you got your value.

Similar happened to me several times except the set screw came all the way off the shaft and the rotor wouldn't spin. Finally had to get a new set screw. Why the shaft isn't keyed I will never know. I am used to old school rotors with a notched shaft so the rotor doesn't need a set screw.

There must be something in the Subaru dealer manual that tells them to do this. They tried the same scam six months after I purchased my new Loyale in 1994. Like another poster said, if it carbons up at 15K miles, the warranty should cover it. Is it throwing a code? Did they take the injector out to inspect it? I suspect it is just upsell. My Loyale is 20 years old and I have not had a single injector problem. I used good gas like Chevron with Techron in it. Don't buy the cheap ARCO gas, it is crap and will lead to things like injector cleanings and such. Unless it is having driveability issues, just get a can of Lucas or Techron and put it in at your next fill up.

"Been Rooed" Toyota

I know where Otis Orchards is. I grew up in spokane. Welcome.

The poor little subie corpse recovered: Video: http://landing.newsinc.com/kirotv/video.html?freewheel=91304&sitesection=&VID=24845687 The pic and pull will have a new parts donor if anyone needs parts.

Do you mind me asking if you paid MSRP above or below? I have heard some stealerships are adding as much as $5000 on top of MSRP. I know this is true because Peninsula Subaru near Bremerton even shows this on their internet pricing. Needless to say, they are crossed off my list.

A good story on these: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2010/11/curbside-classic-ultra-van-cross-an-airplane-with-a-corvair-for-the-most-radical-rv-ever/#more-374511

Though my dash is in good shape, I would like to ensure it is in good shape in the future as well. Of course I have eaten greasy McDonald's fries and Albertson's "cheep chicken" in it. And I am a bit of a slob, probably got it all over the dash.

Adam - I am looking at a BRZ. I am concerned about bottoming out though on some of the crappy roads we have in Washington. Have you had any isues in this regard?

I think he means interstate 5, you know the major interstate where the bridge collapsed in Washington.