MR_Loyale

At first read of the title I thought you had caught some troublemaking youth on your property.

Are there any consumer reporters on your local tv stations? See if you can get one of them interested in your case. Nothing car dealers hate more than bad publicity. If you are really mad, make a big sign saying "This dealer screwed me. Will you be next?" put it on your car and park on the public street next to the dealer lot.

For me it is just that my 93 Loyale is the first new car I ever purchased. I have had lots of memories with it and I have kept up on the maintenance so it still drives fine. I don't drive cars to impress people but rather to get me from one place to another. It has always started and got me where I want to go. C'mon people, it isn't called "LOYAL(E)" for nothing! Is a Chevy Cavalier loyal to its owner? I think not, it stalls out, breaks down and is quite "Cavalier" about your suffering. I am much more impressed with someone that keeps up with the maintenance and hits 200K, 300K, 400K or even more than I am with those with more money than brains that trash a new car, throw it out and buy another new car. Plus these are relatively simple cars to work on. I look forward to the day when we can all get our 500K badges from Subaru! Me, I have only 355K more to go. Doh!

The good: Great mileage and easy to work on. USMB has just about every answer for anything that can go wrong. Even if the timing belts break, the engine won't be damaged. They don't burn oil even after hundreds of thousands of miles. The bad: What is the mileage? If it is close to a multiple of 60K chances are the cheapskate previous owner dumped it on you before having to pay to do the timing belts. The ugly: They do tend to seep and leak oil. Just keep it topped off.

Someone has to be the new owner or there would never be any cars for you to purchase. My experience with used cars is that the previous owner waits until the expensive maintenance like timing belts and such are due, bubble gums things together to unload it on the next sucker. I tend to buy new and drive them until the wheels fall off. I know who to blame if the maintenance isn't done right. To each his own.

Having a new model make the previous one less desirable has always been the catch22 of consumer products. Apple is constantly plagued with angry repeat customers who complain about buying a product only to have a newer one come out a few weeks later. In general, cars are depreciating assets. Frankly I too was surprised when I first saw on the Subaru web site them offering the 2014 as I hadn't heard anything about it being so much improved. Then again I think someone said something here about first year of a redesign having "issues", so maybe you really dodged a bullet. The 2014's haven't been out long enough to know if they are even going to be reliable as yours. That is about all I got to cheer you up. Maybe alcohol will help.

To be fair though he is also probably having woes.

And chance you can get a video of it? Have someone else record while you reproduce it.

Can you always reproduce it or only on occassion? Does the speed with which you release the clutch affect of the noise happens or not?

Here is a diagram of how it is supposed to be setup:

Did you check both bolts, the one under the tire well and the one attached to the engine? They need to be really tight because this bar absorbs the initial torque when the engine engages the driveline. Is this a 4WD or FWD, Sedan or wagon? The transaxle also has mounting bolts. Check that they and the motor mount bolts are tight as well. Don't just look at the motor mounts, get under there with a wrench and see if you can snug up the nuts.

I had that same thing in my car after I put the engine back in following a removal for timing belts and seal refreash. There is a stabilizer bar that if not really tight will allow the engine to sway. Try tightening the bolts. You need to remove the tire from the engine bay as this bar sits under the tire. In the photo below it is the vertical bar running from under where the spare tire sits to the engine. Not to be confused with the horizontal black bar that supports the tire.

I am no professional mechanic either. But I have had Jiffy Lube cross thread the filter. They have 50 cars to do in a day and must hurry hurry hurry. I have only one, my own. No need to hurry. Plus most of those folks working in the "pit" changing the oil were working Mcdonald's the day before and probably know next to nothing about what they are doing, just that they need to do it fast.

I do my own oil changes now. After that experience I decided I couldn't do any worse.

I lost patience when mine broke and let's just say the grill is "modded" now.

How do you test the thermostat?

Leave you hanging with the rest of the song or the rest of how I had a dealership screw up an oil change? The rest of the song is online. I just thought that verse applied in this situation. My oil change fiasco was a Dodge dealer - Bremerton Dodge to be exact and as they are no longer in business, I see no reason to hold back. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 I bought spanky new in 2002. Not many miles on it as I only use it to haul the boat. At 12-15 MPG it could never be my daily driver. I think it was in 2004 or so I took it in for a routine oil change oh and asked for a locking gas cap as gas thefts were going big back then. About an hour later, they tell me the truck is ready and hand me the bill. I pay the cashier and go out to my truck. I start the engine and about 20 seconds later the engine stops and the check light comes on. It won't start again. I grab the manual out of the glove box and try to look upwhat the indicator meant. After about 5 minutes, I give up and walk back into the service desk. I tell the guy what has happened and he rolls his eyes as if he knows what the trouble might be. He walks out and immediately opens the hood of the truck and pulls the dip stick. Yeah, he KNEW what to look for because this had happened before. Keep in mind I didn't have more than 16K miles on this truck. He walked back into the shop and told me what it was. He tried to say there was low oil in the engine that they didn't put enough oil in it. Though I never checked it myself I suspect it was worse than that based upon his shocked look as if "oh crap, not again". Honestly, I was in shock, caught totally off guard that here in the dealership, the factory authorized annointed place where ALL work was to happen, they could make such a mistake as not added oil for a damn oil change (dang it I am getting pissed just writing about it again). All their ASE certs on the wall, Dodge certififcation and feel good posters that the "know" Dodge trucks because they are factory trained etc. So now my truck is in the small lot where they queue cars after the repair work is done. I'd say about 20 yards from the service bay. The service guy assures me he will fix it etc etc. So the next thing I know I see this probably about 17 yr old kid hop into the my truck (you know, the one with no oil) and DRIVE it into the service bay. Yup, you read that right. See why I am angry? I tell the service desk guy they are on the hook if I have ANY engine issues in the future and I want the computerized record annotated with the details of this incident. If it had been me that had done such a thing, who here doesn't think it would be the excuse to deny any and all future warranty service? So I get it back, and this time I check the dip stick. It has oil in there, the correct amount as far as I can tell. A few days later I get a call from the dealership asking "how did you like our service".. Not in a sorry we almost wrecked your engine with such a rookie mistake you might as well have changed your own oil sort of way, this was in a gee I think we did such a wonderful job we are just calling to confirm we are wonderful, sort of way. Ever see in cartoons where a character gets really mad and the steam puffs out of each ear? That was me at this moment. And like Yosemite Sam, I unloaded on them - both barels and then some. How any place on earth could be so incompetent and clueless just added to my anger. They offered me a free detailing to placate me. I told them I wouldn't trust them to check the tire pressure. A detailing might mean I'd get the truck back with holes in the paint as they'd probably try to "clean" it with paint stripper. In 2008 or so I think Bremerton Dodge went out of business. Needless to say I didn't shed a tear. Since then I have learned that dealership service shops tend to run on something called the "Team Concept" where the mechanics are indy hired guns that must supply their own tools and work more like contractors than employees. And the oil changes are done by minimum wage young dumb and full of cum pimply faced kids who wouldn't know a piston rod from a fishing rod. This explains why the service shop kid drove my truck without oil back into the bay to put in oil. He probablly had no idea why oil is important in an engine. Now for all those folks who are going to write that "anyone can make a mistake", yeah that is true. But if I am buying mistakes, I'd be better off paying jiffy lube goobers (don't get me going about how they cross thread the oil filters, my blood pressure is already high just retelling this story) to make them cheaper or perhaps Wal-Mart mistakes than pay dealership rates for my mistakes. I can hire a couple of illegals to make the mistakes cheaper than ASE certified, factory authorized mistake makers.

The most important thing is everyone is OK. Cars can be fixed easier than people. Please make sure your wife gets follow up even if she doesn't think it hurt.

If it isn't banging really bad, you can employ the factory supplied anti-ticking device. It will be in the middle of the dash.

Subaru finally came out with their first hybrid, as a Crosstrek. http://www.thetorquereport.com/2013/03/2014_subaru_xv_crosstrek_hybri.html http://www.thecardriving.com/read/4538/2014-subaru-xv-crosstrek-hybrid-preview-and-technical-specs/

One super grande mocha.

When is it this year?

The brake guy told me once he hated that hill holder becuse it is tricky getting the cable adjusted just right. But I was able to do it after I pulled the engine end put it back in. When the cable nut is adjusting wronge either the brakes bind slightly or do not engage correctly when you release the brake while holding the clutch. Once you get used to it though nothing beats this feature on a hill.

One way to tell is to come to a stop on an uphill. You will have the clutch pushed in and the brake pushed in, Hold the clutch in and release the brake while keeping the clutch held down. If you do not roll backwards, you have a hill holder. Basically the hill holder is an auxillary valve that holds the brake pressure until the clutch is released. Look at your master cylinder. If there is a hill holder, you will see what looks like a metal brake line going from the master cylinder to this hill holder valve and that valve will have a cable that connects to the clutch.