MR_Loyale

You are in perfect range to go soob hunting my friend. Look at the map. Whidbey Island is in Northern Puget Sound (find Seattle and move north). You can take a 30 min ferry ride from whidbey Island to Port Townsend and then less than 1 hour to Sequim. BTW, Port Townsend was the site of last year's West Coast Subaru Show (WCSS). It'll prob cost you about 26 bucks by car to ride the ferry each way so save yer pennies. WSF has an online tool called vessel watch that gives live real time map position of the ferries. Here's the link: http://www.wsdot.com/ferries/vesselwatch/Default.aspx

The only sure way to know where it is leaking is a UV/ test. Kits are cheap and no guessing required.

Or deploy the anti-ticking device.

Ah yess the two bolt radiator. That brings back memories **sniff**. It was my first repair on my new Subaru 1993 Loyale - my very first brand new car. I bought in August 1994 for $11k. At 42,000 miles (I think it was 1997) , I pulled into a freind's drive way and it started peeing all over the driveway. Turns out the el-cheapo plastic sidewalls on the stock radiator had leaked. I remember being so mad at Subaru because the warranty was only until 40,000 miles they would not replace itl So, I went to a radiator shop and asked if there was a replacement without plastic. The guy looked it up and gave me a Legacy radiator. Fit like a glove and to this day at 145k no leaks. In 2008 at 117K I pulled the engine to do the timing belt, replace the clutch. While there I did the oil pump, water pump, all the pulleys, rear main seal, cam seals. Easier to pull nce than many times.

What color is the 92 you are wrecking? Does it have power door locks?

Yeah see that is the problem though. It works fine as designed. But adding a remote unlock/lock ability so all four doors work from the fob requires adding an actuator into the driver door. Electrically it is a snap. I just need to know how to physically connect it. It would be really really nice if they had made the driver door with an unused actuator mount point similar to the rear left door but just not put an actuator in there. That would make my job very easy. Sometimes they do this during design for flexibility of manufacture and easily changing options. Thus a need for an illustration.

My Loyale already has power locks. But there is no actuator in the driver side door as it is used as a master switch to open all the other doors. Does the GL work the same way? I don't have the wiring diagram for a GL, but I do for the 93 Loyale I have. Is there an actuator inside the driver door on the GL models with power locks?

I generically call them Jesus Christ connectors. Because after struggling with them and they break, that is usually the first thing out of my mouth.

LOL. No I don't want a "stash spot". Yeah I know there is a vapor barrier and a bunch of connecting rods and such. I had the passenger front door apart once- never the driver door. No I need an illustration of the precise layout so I can shop actuators. I want to add an actuator on the drivers side door so I can then add a remote lock/unlock. I can certainly add this as it is now but it will do all doors but the driver's side since there is no actuator in the driver door. Kind defeats the point wouldn't you say? I want to know the layout without having to tear it apart myself just to see the layout. Those Loyale actuators can go for $100 and I am not even sure if there are mounting points to make it easiy to add. Parts store have other makes online much cheaper. I would rather have the diagram so I can do "figgerin" in my head rather than bolting crap up and having it not work. Besides it is wet and cold out right now and I am laid up with a broken foot so I wouldn't do this until spring. I have seen diagrams online for other doors, just not the driver side. Here is one for the rear left door:

Does anyone have an illustration of what is under when you remove the door panel for the front left (driver ) door of a 1993 Loyale?

I must not be doing it right. I clicked your screen name and couldn't find the picture of the 100 mph Loyale. You peaked my interest with a 100mph Loyale, but I cannot find it.

I agree, don't smash it up.

Rear left wheel bearing. I'm at the store now. Thanks to everyone for their coments. Can't complain.20 years out of wheel bearings is good in my book.

93 Loyale, 5MT FWD. Driving on the highway this afternoon I heard what I thought was tire noise. It was a growling sound. I thought a tire was making noise. I got off the highway onto a surface street and slowed to a stop at an intersection the growling slowed as I slowed the car. Pressing in the clutch did not change the noise. Coasting with the clutch pedal depressed did not alter the growling. I checked the tires and they seem to be fine. It definitely sounds like it is from the rear. I am thinking wheel bearing. Does that sound about right? I will take it to Les Schwab tomorrow and have them take a look. If it is a wheel bearing, do they have to be replaced in pairs (e.g. both left and right) or can one corner be replaced that is bad? What price range should I expect to pay to get this fixed?

What gear oil do folks recommend for Loyale 5MT ? Last time I changed the gear oil I used Valvoline 80W-90 synthetic. I have heard Redline makes a superior product. Any info or experiences are appreciated.

I am the original owner of my 1993 Loyale. I will never forget when my car was at 83K miles I had taken it into the dealer (as I always did) for an oil change. The front desk person tried to convince me to get an entire rebuilt engine for $1500+labor costs due to all the leaks. I thought, what a crappy car that cannot go 100K miles without having to be rebuilt. Could have bought a Chevy if I wanted that ilk of car. I passed on that offer. Then later that day I spoke with my older wiser neighbor, just chatting. I mentioned what the dealer told me. My neighbor scoffed and said just to keep it topped up. Just common sense - he doesn't own any subies so he wasn't saying out of any brand loyalty. I took his advice and I am now at 145K. I quit taking it to the dealer because clearly they were just out for my money. I listen to a couple of radio shows on cars regularly (Tom Turner and Gregg's) here in the Seattle area. In conversations on the radio, the EA82 comes up (they refer to it as the 1.8) and they all seem to have nothing but good things too say about it. These aren't people who get paid to say nice things about Subaru's either. They are professional mechanics. I think Subaru is Japanese for "leaky machine". Or it may be small aluminum engines have this tendency for leaks as I know plenty of Honda owners with leaky engines as well. If you are willing to do the work, this is the place to visit. There are videos and complete steps for doing things as extensive as engine reseals to just the "mickey mouse" gasket (clears up the ticking) and timing belts. Also good camaraderie and encouragement. You couldn't possibly screw something up any worse than hasn't already been done. I am not a mechanic by trade. I wouldn't even count myself as mechanically inclined as most here. However, I was able to pull the engine, replaced the oil pump, water pump, rear main seal, cam seals, timing belts and clutch all myself. The EA82 is a non-interference engine which means you cannot really wreck it as the pistons cannot reach the valves even if you screw it up, which many posters have done and then fixed. Those posts teach you just as well as the ones where everything goes alright. I did about $2000 worth of mechanic work for about $600 in parts and my time of course. It took me a week because I was being careful and never did this before. I was lectured by my 90 year old father how I was going to screw up the thing once I started removing the timing belt while the removed engine was on the hoist. My satisfaction with him as my companion at first crank and test drive cannot be put into words. So if you do not like wrenching, or are unwilling to learn, then get rid of it and buy a new car because that is the only way to stay out of the mechanic's billing sheet - at least initially. If you are not made of money and willing to learn a new skill, you are perfectly suited to fix this yourself.

Excellent post. You have inspired me to get out and do more driving.

Commie parts are junk.

+1

I thought you were implying that the later manuals allowed towing based upon what you wrote. Thank you for your clarification. Originally when I purchased the car new in 1994, I was excited about potentially towing as the jj421. Everything I read at the time, including the owners manual said no towing. I have a small boat I would have loved to have towed with the car. Instead I bought a Dodge Ram for towing.

I can't speak to all the manuals of cars I do not own. However I am the original purchaser of my 1993 Loyale which I still own. The owners manual states on page 6-25: Towing trailer or other items with your SUBARU is not recommended. Furthermore, the 1993 Warranty and Maintenance Booklet that came with my car states on page 9 under WHAT IS NOT COVERED last sentence: There is also no coverage if a part malfunctions, fails or is damaged due to any unauthorized alteration made to the car such as the removal of parts or the attachment to the car of accessories or equipment not approved or recommended by SOA. This information is repeated again on page 30 under WHAT IS NOT COVERED point (7).

No no no. I live in Wa, know you have many mountainous hills. You get going down Snoqualmie Pass with that behind a Loyale and you are likely to be a statistic at the end. The manual says not to tow. I love my Loyale but would never tow with it. Can it be done? Sure. A guy can move a trailer with his teeth too. Doesn't make it safe. Please don't do this. You are too young to die stupidly like that. Just my opinion, feel free to flame away folks. I'd rather take the flames than read about this kid smashing up on I-5.

That is an excellent job rejoining the rear of the body.

+1

Got a pic? That would be helpful. I'll keep my eyes open over in Kitsap.