MR_Loyale

I have noticed that my temperature gauge goes to about half way up when the car is warming up after a cold night and then I can see a point where it clicks down almost to the bottom of the range. Presumably this is the thermostat kicking in. When I start the car from cold overnight and I turn on the heater and as the temperature needle is rising before the thermostat kicks in, I am getting warm air. Shouldn't this air be cold until the thermostat kicks in? I am just curious as to how I am getting heat when supposedly the thermostat is blocking the flow of coolant through the system.

Wel I definitely won't put any of that stuff in there. Thanks for the comments everyone. I replaced all the grommets and seals for the cam tower when I did the timing belt two years ago. That doesn't mean it can;t be the source of the leak though. Has anyone here ever used the UV leak detection kits?

Cracked front windshield, passenger side mirror only goes horizontal and not vertical, driver side seat coming apart, tailpipe fell off, brakes make squeeling when stopping, clunking on right front cv when making sharp turns and of course an oil leak. But other than that, it drives wonderfully!

Well actually two years ago I did the timing belt, idlers, rear main, brand new oil pump with the mickey mouse gasket, new water pump, cam seals and all the cam cover gaskets. The oil doesn't appear to be coming from there. The one thing I did not do was a head gasket. Could that be the source of the leak?

I have an oil leak that gets oil on my muffler and it smokes. I am not sure where the oil is coming from and was considering a can of leak fix for the oil system. Is this a bad idea? Has anyone else tried any of the products on the market for this? My concern is that is might clog the HLAs or other tiny passage. Oh, I am talking about a 93 Loyale EA82 engine just in case anyone wondered.

This thing I don't get is why it was the passenger one that failed. It is used very little as I am single. I would expect the driver side to fail first. I wonder if the construction of the driver side is different. There is an F/R sticker on the side of this so I am presuming that means FRONT RIGHT which leads me to think they are all not interchangeable.

The problem is definitely the actuator. I took it out and bench tested it, no dice. Dealer wants $123 and it will come from New Jersey. I figured it was already broken, so what is the worst I could do by opening it up? It seems to me that this thing was designed to fail. I took the cover off and there are three brushes that ride their contact on a motor driven wheel. Two of the three are nice solid stamped meta. The third, the one that brok off was made of thin wire. On top of it is a stub of what would be another nice sturdy stamped brush but it is cut off and serves only to hold down the chinsy wire. Oh and I tested the motor by powering it directly. It works fine. Update: I soldered the wire onto the base plate of the connector. It now works, so I just need to reinstall it. Photos attached. The connector that broke is the second from the bottom with the red wire attached. As you can see, it is a spring wire. 17 years of sprining back and forth snapped it.

Well I finally got a chance to look at this. I get voltage on the connector to the passenger door lock when I move the lever on the driver's side. So I guess my next step is to remove the junk on the passenger side door and see if I can find either a broken wire or something? Has anyone ever replace the solenoid thing that moves the lock? What is it called? My Haynes book doesn't really say much about it. Will it be an expensive part? I also noticed my driver side door harness boot that connects the door wiring to the frame has come out of place on the door side. It doesn't want to go back in either. Will this eventually chaffe the wires or should I just leave it be? I tried wrestling with it, but it didn't budge. I suspect the cold weather is working against me here too.

On my EA82, the screw that holds the rotor in place keeps working its way loose and the car quits. Sometimes it is a few months, or a few weeks. I tighten it down and it still works its way out. Has anyone else ever had this happen? I was thinking I could put some blue loctite on it to hold it in place. Any thoughts?

The driver's side lock switch no longer locks the passenger locks or unlocks - sorry for leaving that the first time. Any specific brand names for the electrical cleaner? Can I get that at any auto parts store?

Normally when I lock the driver's side door lock, it locks all the doors in the car. The passenger side lock has stopped locking. I can manually lock it so I know the mechanism works. Is there a fuse for this or probably a loose wire or worse? Has anyone else had this problem?

Well, after replacing the plugs, fuel filter, dist cap and rotor and wringing my hands for several months, the bucking loyale has been tamed. It FINALLY threw a code, 32 - Oxygen circuit. I replaced the O2 Sensor and the horse is back in the corral, well tamed. I have to admit I had no idea the process that worked between the MAF sensor and the O2 sensor. I thought sure I had some sort of rust or something clogging my fuel line or perhaps the TPS sensor was bad. It was only the $200 price tag that kept me from throwing that part at the problem. Sorry for taking sooooooo long to get back to folks here. I had seriously considered *gasp getting rid of it. But my inner cheapskate held me back. Thanks for everyone that tried to help.

On my 93 loyale I am having an issue with the accelerator. When I try holding the speed constant, I get jerking as if I was quickly letting off the gas and then pressing it again. This happens even at highway speeds. It has been happening for a while now. I bought plugs recently and will put them in tomorrow. I am also thinking perhaps a fuel delivery issue? Cap and rotor are fairly new. Has anyone else had this issue? Some times it seems to not do this though it is more frequent it will do it.

That would be the end of the internet.

Just in time for winter too! Glad you got it working.

This happens to my 93 loyale on occassion. The problem is the power connector to the blower motor. It is inaequate for the task. As a result, the wires to the plug can got hot and loosen. Usually I just wiggle the connector on mine until it comes back on. There is a panel underneath the glove box area that you can remove to see the blower motor. Turn it on and then wiggle the conenctor. Examine the connector plug where the wire goes in.

I think that is a clue here. Instead of looking for something that is open, look for something that is grounded that shouldn't be.

The plugs are about 6K old, distributor and wires about 5K old.

I am having an issue with my 1993 Loyale (1.8L non-tubo). When driving down the freeway, and this is the only place it seems to happen, my check engine light comes on. It stays on for a while then goes off all of a sudden. When it is on, the car is jerky even though my foot is holding the accelerator in the same position, it is as if I was quickly taking it off and applying it again. But the jerks happen faster than I could ever tap the gas pedal. After a while it goes away. By the time I am anywhere to check the code, it is gone. I suspect this is fuel system related, but that is just a guess. An ideas?

Well if you got really bad ticking, give it a try. I doubt it will ruin anything. It will either help or it won't and if you are afraid of it, then you can drain the oil and refill it with fresh stuff. If you don't have ticking, why take the chance?

Well, that's one way to see if the trunk light goes out when you close the lid.

According to the article, it is going to be rear wheel drive. Why would they do that? The last rear wheel drive car I owned was a Dodge dart. I would never own another rear wheel drive.

It would be nice if you could go somewhere other than the dyno with that 800 hp. Anyone kiddie can play dyno games. Heck why bother even using a real car why not fire up the playstation instead? Same thing.

You obviously didn't go look at the Veyron. That is precisely my reaction about it.

Actually the SSC could have gone faster but they ran out of road. Like I said, each appeals to two different segments. And clearly we have different ideas as to what constitutes brilliant engineering. I look at the Veyron and see a bunch of useless stuff thrown on like a Rube Goldberg device. I prefer the succint, reliable KISS approach to engineering. Extra whirlygigs, hockeylockers and sizzlewhigs that do nothing have zero appeal to me. I am quite sure the SSC will appeal to the wannabee Andretti types out there. That is it's target market. Do you spend $600K (or twice that in the Veyron's case) on a fast car to just drive it slow?