MR_Loyale

I figured out what was happening, only after buying another brand new water pump! The metal water pipe was leakijng at the flange. I swear the stream of water looked exactly like it was coming from the pump itself. It was only after I took the first one off and put in the second one and tested it that I realized it wasn't the water pump. I ecased the thing in RTV for a temporary fix. I am hoping this pipe is something I can get at a dealer. The car runs great now, leaks no oil and the clutch is very grabby. Thanks everyone for all your help. Oh and my dad was impressed too.

Well I got it together, cranked it over and it started right up. It runs better now with no more tapping. However, I have a leak around the water pump. I am not exactly sure where, but it is a new water pump. Before I started it up, I poured a coolant/water mixture into the passenger side water hose to the engine where the thermostat is at in order to ensure there was some coolant there before I started it. It did drip a bit off the timing cover right under the water pump area, even before I started the engine up, but I just thought I spilled some. I am thinking that pipe that has just an O ring to seal it up could be the problem. Or perhaps the bypass hose. I used a good coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket before I put the water pump in. Has anyone seen this before?

I agree with you. I made a very similar argument about it. In the end when it looked like he still didn't get it, I politey asked him to go back in the house and let me work on it alone.

Yeah, that is what I ended up doing. I got both belts on and am positive it is correct. I will know tomorrow.

Ok I am at the scary part of the timing belt. If I screw this up I will never hear the end of it from my father who has been working on engines all his life. He insists I should never move the flywheel once I took off the belts. I told him I got the instructions from the experts online. So I am putting in the driver's side belt (EA82) and I lined up the three ticks ont he flywheel to the bell housing indicator. However I have a question. There are three ticks. Which tick do I line up with and as I face the engine from the flywheel looking forward to the front of the motor, do I line up using the very edge of the idicator on the housing? Or am I making this too complicated?

I replaced my oil pump with a new one. Probably wasn't necessary as the old one looks to be in good condition. It has 117K miles on it. If anyone wants it and you are in the Spokane area, PM me and it is yours. I also have the old timing tensioners too but those are probably not worth keeping.

1882? I knew Subaru was ahead of its time, but that is amazing.

I have an EA82 Oil Pump that I replaced today. I am in Spokane for the next few days. It is yours for the taking. It is in serviceable condition, I just prefer to put in a brand new one for piece of mind.

Does anyone know what the torque is supposed to be on the EA82 Oil pump mounting bolts? The Haynes manual says 13-15 ft-lbs and I know that is wrong. The factory manual doesn't list it.

Actually at about 80K I changed the fluid as it hadn't ever been done. It is now at 117K. But I did notice that it appeared the release bearing carrier was packed with axle grease. Perhaps that could be what this is?

I recently pulled my EA82 from my Loyale and I noticed the entire isinde of the transaxle housing was coated with a black film that appears to be composed of oil and clutch dust. Does this mean my transaxle input shaft seal is leaking? Is there a positive test I can do without pulling the transaxle from the car? If it is leaking, is there some can of crap I can put in there of do I need to pull it and get it repaired/replced?

Well after carefully labeling everything as I took it apart, I got the engine out with a minimum of cuss words and all my knuckle skin intact. I probably set the record for taking the most time to get to this point as I have been working on and off for two days on this. Amazingly neither the pressure plate bolts, flywheel bolts or the main crank pulley nut gave me any trouble on removal. Actually the flywheel bolts were rather easy to break the lock on. The flywheel had no scarring, just a glaze. So I am getting the glaze removed tomorrow. Since I took the entire week off for this, I am ahead of schedule.

I recently took the mat out of my Loyale Sedan trunk to clean it off. When I put it back in I notice in the floor of the trunk kind of left of center, there was a bracket with a threaded hole in it. It kind of looks like it may be for holding a spare tire or something. But my spar tire is in the engine. Does anyone know what this threaded hole is supposed to be for?

AWESOME! :banana: Thanks.

Thank you everyone for the advice.

I am so sorry about that. I thought I had posted on the older generation area. Thanks for not calling me the total idiot I obviously am. And thanks for replying twice.

I am planning on removing the engine on my 93 Loyal to do the timing belts, cluth and a reseal. I wanted to run the list by everyone to see it I missed anything. Camshaft Seals Oil pump seals Water Pump Front and Rear main seals Oil pan gasket Did I miss anything?

I am getting ready to get the parts for an engine reseal as my 93 Loyale leaks a quite a bit and I will be removing the engine to do the timing belts and clutch. I wanted to run the list by the experts here to see if I am missing anything: Camshaft seals Oils pump seal Water pump with seal Front & rear main seals Oil pan gasket Is there anything I am missing?

I notice there are timing belt kits that include the tensioners and idler. Should those also be replaced when doing the timing belts?

My 1993 Loyale has 117K on it. At 120K the timing belts are due. My clutch is also in need of replacement as it slips with aggressive highway acceleration. I also have leaks in the engine that leave a nice puddle wherever I park. I got a quote for $600 for the clutch work to be done. I never asked about the timing belt though. My first timing belt replacement at 60K set me back over $1200 at the dealer when they originally quoted me $600. I would like to do a complete reseal, timing belt and clutch replacement with the engine out of the car. Should I also replace the water pump? What is the typical life of the stock water pump on EA82 engines? Does anyone have any idea where to get a good quality parts? I don't need the highest end parts, just the most reliable. I am not one of the people here that can do it all in 6 hours. I will be dedicating a week for this as I am not sure if the flywheel will need to be resurfaced. I have the Haynes manual as well as the pdf files for the service manual. Any other tips from the experienced people here?

I have never changed the PCV valve on my 93 Loyale. I just looked and I cannot figure out where it is. How dumb is that? I even have the Haynes manual! Yes I am an idiot. But will someone please take pity and tell me where it should be and what it should look like?

I am just curious if anyone knows what is in the ECM? Is it a custom microcontroller, an off the shelf microcontroller or a version of a general purpose CPU? Has anyone ever taken one apart to see what is in it? How much RAM etc?

Dude that is a really sick April Fool's Day joke. Kidding around about people getting in accidents is not funny at all.

Tizzle, That white car looks a lot like my Loyale. Kinda funny to see it leaping out of the air like that.

Yeah, it was that article that got me thinking about it!