MR_Loyale

I have an EA82 Oil Pump that I replaced today. I am in Spokane for the next few days. It is yours for the taking. It is in serviceable condition, I just prefer to put in a brand new one for piece of mind.

Does anyone know what the torque is supposed to be on the EA82 Oil pump mounting bolts? The Haynes manual says 13-15 ft-lbs and I know that is wrong. The factory manual doesn't list it.

Actually at about 80K I changed the fluid as it hadn't ever been done. It is now at 117K. But I did notice that it appeared the release bearing carrier was packed with axle grease. Perhaps that could be what this is?

I recently pulled my EA82 from my Loyale and I noticed the entire isinde of the transaxle housing was coated with a black film that appears to be composed of oil and clutch dust. Does this mean my transaxle input shaft seal is leaking? Is there a positive test I can do without pulling the transaxle from the car? If it is leaking, is there some can of crap I can put in there of do I need to pull it and get it repaired/replced?

Well after carefully labeling everything as I took it apart, I got the engine out with a minimum of cuss words and all my knuckle skin intact. I probably set the record for taking the most time to get to this point as I have been working on and off for two days on this. Amazingly neither the pressure plate bolts, flywheel bolts or the main crank pulley nut gave me any trouble on removal. Actually the flywheel bolts were rather easy to break the lock on. The flywheel had no scarring, just a glaze. So I am getting the glaze removed tomorrow. Since I took the entire week off for this, I am ahead of schedule.

I recently took the mat out of my Loyale Sedan trunk to clean it off. When I put it back in I notice in the floor of the trunk kind of left of center, there was a bracket with a threaded hole in it. It kind of looks like it may be for holding a spare tire or something. But my spar tire is in the engine. Does anyone know what this threaded hole is supposed to be for?

AWESOME! :banana: Thanks.

Thank you everyone for the advice.

I am so sorry about that. I thought I had posted on the older generation area. Thanks for not calling me the total idiot I obviously am. And thanks for replying twice.

I am planning on removing the engine on my 93 Loyal to do the timing belts, cluth and a reseal. I wanted to run the list by everyone to see it I missed anything. Camshaft Seals Oil pump seals Water Pump Front and Rear main seals Oil pan gasket Did I miss anything?

I am getting ready to get the parts for an engine reseal as my 93 Loyale leaks a quite a bit and I will be removing the engine to do the timing belts and clutch. I wanted to run the list by the experts here to see if I am missing anything: Camshaft seals Oils pump seal Water pump with seal Front & rear main seals Oil pan gasket Is there anything I am missing?

I notice there are timing belt kits that include the tensioners and idler. Should those also be replaced when doing the timing belts?

My 1993 Loyale has 117K on it. At 120K the timing belts are due. My clutch is also in need of replacement as it slips with aggressive highway acceleration. I also have leaks in the engine that leave a nice puddle wherever I park. I got a quote for $600 for the clutch work to be done. I never asked about the timing belt though. My first timing belt replacement at 60K set me back over $1200 at the dealer when they originally quoted me $600. I would like to do a complete reseal, timing belt and clutch replacement with the engine out of the car. Should I also replace the water pump? What is the typical life of the stock water pump on EA82 engines? Does anyone have any idea where to get a good quality parts? I don't need the highest end parts, just the most reliable. I am not one of the people here that can do it all in 6 hours. I will be dedicating a week for this as I am not sure if the flywheel will need to be resurfaced. I have the Haynes manual as well as the pdf files for the service manual. Any other tips from the experienced people here?

I have never changed the PCV valve on my 93 Loyale. I just looked and I cannot figure out where it is. How dumb is that? I even have the Haynes manual! Yes I am an idiot. But will someone please take pity and tell me where it should be and what it should look like?

I am just curious if anyone knows what is in the ECM? Is it a custom microcontroller, an off the shelf microcontroller or a version of a general purpose CPU? Has anyone ever taken one apart to see what is in it? How much RAM etc?

Dude that is a really sick April Fool's Day joke. Kidding around about people getting in accidents is not funny at all.

Tizzle, That white car looks a lot like my Loyale. Kinda funny to see it leaping out of the air like that.

Yeah, it was that article that got me thinking about it!

I have to admit that oil filters are something I never really thought about much about. After reading the various threads regarding oil filters and FRAM filters in particular, I got to wondering about some episodes of startup knock I had a while back. You see, being the novice I am, I always used FRAM oil filters. Why? No particular reason other than they appear to be the most common one out there. I used it once, the engine didn't fall apart and so I thought why not? Since then, out of habit, I grab the fram filter. See I am of the mind that if something isn't broken, don't fix it. If something works fine, why switch? Then I came accross some of the threads here that got me to thinking. The negative attitude and some people's personal testing have made me question my Fram usage. I am thinking back several months ago, in the mornings on several occassions, I would have severe knocking coming from the engine. Not the tap tap tap you mght get sometime, but a hard knocking like little elves in the engine with hammers trying to beat their way out. I thought for sure the engine was going to destroy itself. After about 1 minute, it stopped and didn't return for the rest of the day. I had about 5 of these episodes and then to this day it never happened again. Thinking back, the only thing that changed was the fact I have been religiously changing the oil and filter. Could this severe knocking have been caused by a bad Fram oil filter or perhaps something else?

Well after I baked the lens assembly, I figured out why I had water in the lens. There was a tiny hole in the lens. It looks almost like someone shot it with a bb gun but the hole is too small. It must have been a rock hit. I would post a picture but I don't know how. Now I am a bit of a cheapskate, so I am wondering if there is some sort of stuff I can put on the lens to seal the hole. Or do I have to buy a completely new assembly for this?

Well I took the lens assembly out today, turned it over an about 2 cups of water came out of it. I suspect that it was the water simply for the fact that the glass was shattered every time. usually when an electrical overload blows a bulb, the glass doesn't shatter. Also, I came accross this from the car talk guys: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4179/is_20070106/ai_n17106271 At this point I am suspicious that there is a crack in the lens itself and not the seal. I am going to test this theory once it is dry by filling the kitchen sink half way up the thickness of the lens and putting the lens assembly inverted into this water. If after say an hour I have water in it, I can presume I have a crack, otherwise I can presume it is the seal. Does anyone know if they sell these things new somewhere?

Dude that totally sucks. I try to avoid the dealers whenever possible and order through and online source. I bought my Subaru new and after 40K miles the cheap lastic radiator blew out. I went to a third party radiator place and asked for one that was not cheap plastic and they sold me an all metal one that fit my car but was for a Legacy I think. We should all send an email to Carter Subaru letting them know we know how they treat customers. There is a rule that a disgruntled customer will tell ten others. I usually try to tell at least 100.

I replaced the turn signal bulb and the flasher flashes normally now. As for the headlight, I noticed that there is a bunch of condensation trapped inside the lens. There was water on the lip of the rubber gasket seat when I removed the old bulb. Are there drian holes int he lens assembly to allow moisture to drain away? Perhaps it is clogged on mine. Anyway, I am going to remove the lens assembly and get rid of the water. I haven't been using anything other than regular Sylvania 9004, exactly what was originally in the car.

I have a 1993 Subaru Loyale and the left (driver side) headlight has been replaced 4 times in the last two months. It keeps going out. When I removed it, the glass has shattered. I have been very careful not to touch the glass with my fingers. About 12 months ago the right side went out and I replaced that one and it still runs fine. Another related fact is that my left fturn signal flashes faster than the right one. I just learned today that the left turn signal light in front is also out which I have hear causes the flasher to flash faster. I will replace that bulb today. Could this also be causing the headlight to explode? :-\

The containter was the same one I always use for oil changes. It hasn't been used for about 4 months or so and it was sitting empty. I suppose it could have been water in the conatiner into which it was drained.