Brett_j

What seems to be the issue? I saw the Mercedes S/C one and didnt note any issues.

The reason I ask is I have a spare turbo laying around (Nissan T25g from 2 litre)from my first turbo conversion in my Pulsar (Sentra or something for you US folk) and was thinking of making a custom manifold (Im a welder) and putting the turbo on it. Im certain a set of WRX injectors should bolt straight in and maybe a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to control the fuel flow and I have a large Bosch fuel pump lying around to go in as well. Provided I keep it at eh standard 7psi I cant see any issues arising. Im keen to know if Subaru use a wide band oxygen sensor or not as well. After getting out of the Pulsar or TX3 the old Liberty is a bit slow if you get my drift,esecially as the Pulsar is a 12 second car now,just its a little too driver intensive to cruise around in. The engine has a few miles on it (160,000),but it runs a treat and never misses a beat and has no signs of wear at all,so Im confident it should be fine. Any other done this?

I bet its the thrust bearing,mine makes the same sound with just the slightest bit of pressure on the clutch,I bet if you adjust the bolt a little it will go away.

Yes thats exaclty it. Buy a new one.

Does it go away if you tap the brake? Mine has a high pitched alarm like noise in cabin occasionally,when I tap the brake it seems to dissapear,no expert can diagnose the problem as its a random thing. Try tightening up the slack on the clutch cable,mine does the same thing from time to time,my thrust bearing is also sounding like its on its last legs as well.

Broken O2 Sensors only affect the car at low speeds and idle,once cruising it has no effect on driving,just at idle and low speeds it richens up the fuel ratio for safety if its stuffed.Well the ECU does.

Ok my 95 2.2 is leaking it seems from the little resovoir above the pump. Is this a common problem and is there an available seal or something that I can replace? Rather not buy a new one but will whilst Im building up my list of things to replace (Knock sensor/timing belt/leads and so on). Pretty mechanically minded so it I can do it myself easily. Thanks Brett

Dont make the same mistake I did and cut the fabric,just cut the board arround the perforated edges. I now have 2 ugly holes in the fabric where my speakers are.

If your going to play with the boost levels make sure you have a boost gauge in the least to monitor your huge investment when using $10 modifications.

Dont you guys in the states get the Forester GT? We have had them here for years. Although its easily noticable if he has one as they have the top mount scoop. LOL,just saw the post above mine .

Why dont you take it out and see,Its a 30 minute job taking a subie box off,well for the pro's at doing it I curse subaru for not putting inspection plates on.

Mine make a high pitched sound kinda like the noise you get in your ears after listening to music too loud,I tap the brake and it goes away,but heres the thing,its not the pads as they have been replaced and it did it befopre and after.Its like an alarm of some sort or similar,its not wind or driveline noise definatly as it does it while idling occasionally,mainly when i have a passenger though???

Im only going by experience on my Nissan,I havent had to replace the Subie's clutch yet so I havent seen the setup,just it was the same symptons I had thats all. Good Luck

Thrust bearing installed backwards,dont laugh I have done it once . 10 years of working on cars and this happened,very embarressed.

Id go for the clogged heater core also,I had this happen on my old trusty 1800 wagon,after much flushing and more flushing the brown mud out I turned her on and in 5 minutes I was enjoying sweet warm toasty air.