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Everything posted by nontrivial
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I have real trouble getting into reverse gear on my dual range 4MT. I've done the trick of replacing the linkage pin with a bolt, and that helped a little. I've also removed (hopefully temporarily) the dual range 4WD linkage to allow more room to try to whip it over to the right and get it into reverse. So now I can *usually* get it into reverse when I want to, for now, but I expect it to get worse over time. I've been working on it solo and I just visited my folks and had my dad work the gear shift while I looked at the linkage, and the "foot" of the linkage comes *way* out of the little receiver/cup it sits in. I'm thinking that might be part of the problem, that there should be something that should allow the shifter to move but not jump out of the cup like it does. So, can anybody get me a picture or diagram of where the linkage sits in the little cup near the bottom of the transmission? Bonus points for answering the question of where something should be connecting it to the cup. I'm seriously considering getting out some bailing wire and figuring out a way to keep the linkage sitting in the cup but letting it move. Also bonus points for a part number or source for the rubber/metal washer/grommet between the linkage and cup. Mine is pretty beat up. And maybe a part number/source for the rubber inner gear shift boot, that's pretty beat up as well.
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Mostly wanted to just update anybody interested on my 83 Brat project. I just got it painted and some of the trim back on. I originally wanted a tan cream color rather than the factory "Harvest Beige" but made a last minute impulse decision to go with more of a yellow/buttermilk color. It's kind of growing on me because it catches the eye, isn't *too* flashy, and most folks think it might be a stock color. Obviously I am not restoring it to factory original, I'm going for a daily driver that will last a while. I completely and literally scrubbed the under body, hosed it down with Rust Mort, and them covered it with truck bed liner. The bottom lips on the rocker panels were pretty beat up so I welded some angle iron to strengthen them. There were a few serious rust issues on the body but I was able to deal with them and seal both sides of the metal so I think it will last a while. Oh, and it started out in life as an automatic but I put in a 4MT dual range. It just seems wrong to have an automatic Brat, and the original transmission had issues anyway. The previous owner was kind enough to rebuild the engine but the carburetor crapped out so I put on a weber. The plan is to tow it behind my RV, so if you see a buttermilk Brat rolling down the highway behind an RV it's probably me. The next thing to do is to refurbish the bumpers and other exterior plastic trim, and I'm debating just cleaning them up good and clear coating them or else actually painting them black with the super duper SEM stuff. One big thing I am missing is the tail gate trim, and I'm going to use aluminum door threshold (M-D Building products low dome 49") as a base for that. I've also dug up some part numbers that I think would be useful in one place: 791017090 - Large side trim clips. (Obtainable and fit) 791017130 - Normal bed trim clips. (Obtainable and fit) 791017200 - Corner bed trim clips. (Unobtainable, I rigged something from plastic push rivets) 759114020 - Fender liner clips. (Haven't tried them yet) 901120005 - Fender liner bolts. (Haven't tried them yet) After that I should probably do something about the interior but I'm honestly not feeling it. The interior is definitely showing it's age but if I can't restore all of the interior I'm inclined not to do any of it. Then there are some other odds and ends, like the previous owner removed the computer so (among other things) there is a currently a button for the starter on the dash. Finally, there are a few parts I would really like to get my hands on and I was hoping somebody could either guide me towards a part number or source: There are two round holes on the sides hidden by the rear bumper that need plugs. I only have one original plug. There are some rubber grommets (I guess you call them) that go around the rear bumper mount arms to mostly plug the gap. The are sort of squarish, about 2 inches across. I only have one original grommet. There are some rubber bumpers for the tailgate when it is closed. They are short thin rubber, sort of like weather stripping. I only have one of those. There is some rubber that goes on the tailgate supports where it hinges, I assume to keep them from vibrating. They come in two pieces and I need two sets. Also the rubber on the outside edges of the T-tops are a bit chewed up, so if anybody has any ideas what can be done about that I would appreciate it.
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My 83 Brat sat for a while because reverse gear went out right when life got busy. I have a spare transmission and I finally had the time to swap it out when I crawled under the car to start and saw that the nut on the bolt I had replaced the linkage expansion pin with had come off and the linkage was super sloppy. I put a new nut on and it is shifting as well as it ever had since I got it. I'm going to spend some time coming up with a better rig job (maybe involving making a couple bushings and some locktite) and see if I can make it even better. After that I finally have the time and money to start restoring it to be a daily driver! FYI: I sold my house last year, moved into an RV, and plan on pulling my Brat behind the RV after working on it a bit.
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I replaced the transmission in my 83 Brat with a 4SPD dual range and it works, but it's got some issues. It was damn near impossible to get it into reverse, and as suggested after replacing the compression pin with a bolt it's now possible but still not easy to get it into reverse. I've also noticed that all the down gears (2nd, 4th, and reverse) take a lot more effort to engage then the up gears (1st and 3rd). I am not about to tear apart my transmission because that is beyond my abilities, so my question is there anybody or any place that will rebuild/refurbish my transmission? The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner, with a Weber it runs great, and I would like the transmission to be in as good a shape.
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Leftover engine and transmission anyone?
nontrivial replied to nontrivial's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
FYI for anybody that cares, basically swapped the automatic transmission and all the trimmings for a spare 4SPD dual range in case I need it sometime in the future. I also broke down and built a work bench around the engine sitting on the floor so it wasn't completely wasted space, so it looks like I'm keeping that a while too. -
Leftover engine and transmission anyone?
nontrivial replied to nontrivial's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
OK, I'll keep them for a while but I'm going to get rid of them after a few months. That is the engine, transmission, and a new engine hoist I am definitely going to sell. I can put everything else in the attic, but I want more space in the garage when I start working on the body. Until then if anybody wants to pick them up let me know, I'll let you have them. I'll even drive a bit if you need me to. If you want to pay me for crating them up and shipping, I'll do that too. -
'80-'84 part numbers
nontrivial replied to Dwayne Oxford's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I had this problem recently where it ran fine but ran like poo at high RPM when it was hot. It would keep on running like poo until the engine cooled down. I checked out the choke and the ignition coil, and then I took into a mechanic and long story short they said it was the HItachi carburetor. He said he has a contraption to mist gas into the intake, and if he did that it ran fine. I replaced the carb with a weber and it has been running well since. -
I am (slowly) working on restoring my 1983 Subaru Brat. It must have lived in Nevada or Utah most of it's life because it has very little rust, but mechanically it was in pretty bad shape. I've replaced the carburetor with a Weber, and that fixed up the engine (which amazingly seems to have been recently rebuilt). It came with an automatic (3EAT) transmission and I honestly couldn't tell if there was something wrong with it or else it was supposed to work that way. I mean it was driveable, but I wouldn't exactly say that it operated smoothly. And there was a worrisome jerk and thunk when the electric single range 4WD engaged. So I located a donor car, put a standard 4 speed dual range manual transmission in it, and now it runs and drives pretty good. I'm not a mechanic at all, and one of the reasons I love these cars is that they are simple enough even I can work on them. This forum helped a lot to. Anyway, the 81 station wagon donor car was pretty destroyed before I got to it other than the drive train, but I did get to salvage some parts. Now I'm wondering what to do with the parts I don't need, especially the engine out of the wagon and the original transmission out of the 83 Brat. Some parts I can sell on Ebay, but I really don't know what to do about the engine and transmission. Supposedly the engine was owned by an actual mechanic, well maintained, and was driven right up until it blew a CV joint, and then they pickled the engine and parked under a tree for 15 years. I would like to get a little money out of them, but eventually I'll have to haul them to the dump or something. Does anybody have any better ideas? I currently have them up on craigslist. If anybody is interested delivering them or at least meeting up part way might be possible. https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/d/oklahoma-city-subaru-3eat-automatic/7191256593.html https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/d/oklahoma-city-subaru-ea-81-engine/7191254266.html
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Short version is I put a bolt in it and reverse gear works now. If there is anybody else in a similar jam needing a little more guidance, the gear shift lever attaches to another lever, which is attached to a rod coming out of the transmission with a spring pin. What I did was replace that spring pin with a bolt as big around as I could fit in it. While there was a little wear on the rod coming out of the transmission, and a little more in the holes on the lever, most of the wear turned out to be on the spring pin itself. So this is mostly a win, but now for some reason it is a little hard to get it into first and third, and if you aren't careful it sometimes doesn't engage properly and pops out of those gears. So next week's project is to look into that a little bit, hopefully it has something to do with the new bolt restricting the motion of the rod and I will be able to deal with it. As for replacing the transmission, I found one online and I would really like to go ahead and replace it but I just can't justify the money to do that right now. Luckily the Brat is not my main vehicle but it is nice to know that I have a working backup vehicle now. I should probably start another topic, but now I have a good EA-81 engine from the donor wagon, as well as a good automatic transmission (I assume 3EAT) with all the bells and whistles (torque converter, shifter, interior trim) that I don't know what to do with. Any suggestions?
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Thanks again for the all the help. It does look like the problem is slop in the linkage, so I'll try to deal with that first and see how it goes. If not then I'll look for a dual range 5MT transmission out of a 85 to 89 GL wagon like GD says. I'll keep you all posted.
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I have a followup question. It looks like my local junk yards have a few older Legacy's and Foresters but I'll have to go take a look to see what type of transmissions they have. If I find a late 1900's to early 2000's 5 speed dual range 4WD (5MT) transmission, will it just bolt up to my EA-81 engine with the same clutch plate, rear differential, and everything?
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Thanks for the help guys. I will definitely check out the linkage, but if I wanted to get a 5 speed dual range transmission where would I start looking for? What years and models have them?
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My dad and I are working on a 1983 Brat. It originally came with a flaky automatic transmission but I bought it anyway because I wanted to replace it with a manual transmission. My uncle had a 81 station wagon in a barn with a dual range 4WD transmission that he donated to the cause, and at the time I remember him saying something about reverse being touchy. After doing the swap it turns out that we can't get it into reverse at all, t's like reverse isn't there at all. So then I talked a little more to my uncle who said that it was getting progressively more difficult to get the station wagon into reverse, that towards the end he had to jerk the shifter hard to the right and down to get it into reverse. Eventually it got to the point where he had to remove the plastic shifter cover in order to get enough play to get it into reverse. I'm a novice mechanic so swapping the transmissions is a pretty impressive feat for my dad and I. I've got a shop manual and I'm trying to figure out what my options are, but the thought of having to disassemble the transmission or something like that is pretty scary to me. I've looked through the posts and there is talk about adjusting linkages and maybe replacing shifter rail balls and springs, and that sounds like something I'm up to. Can somebody tell me what they think might be the problem and what I might do about it? Other than trying to locate a low miles replacement transmission, what are my options?
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I've had several Subarus and missed having one in my garage so I bought a 1983 Brat with a known automatic transmission issue, knowing I could get my hands on a 1981 wagon with a manual dual range 4WD transmission. The transmission issue is the usual one where it won't shift from first into a higher gear. I've never had a Subaru with an automatic transmission or power steering and so far I'm not impressed. I'm not much of a mechanic but I am digging through the information on this awesome site trying to get the automatic transmission working. I have changed the ATF, swapped out the vacuum modulator (which was obviously bad) and inspected the governor gear (which looks good). I barely looked at the governor valve and haven't tried the other things indicated in the service manual like the control valve yet. This weekend I plan on dissembling and cleaning the governor valve, replacing the not so snug vacuum hose to the vacuum modulator, making sure there is vacuum to the vacuum modulator, make sure there is a diaphragm rod and O-ring behind the vacuum modulator, and maybe inspect the servo pipes. I will let you all know if I find anything interesting. Honestly I'm hoping I can't fix the AT because I would much prefer to have a manual transmission in the Brat. My main reason for posting is to see if I could get confirmation that you can replace the AT on a 1983 Brat with the clutch and manual 4WD transmission from a 1981 wagon. A warm fuzzy if folks think a novice mechanic like myself can do it would also be nice.