Souperoo

Wouldn't gear noise change with changes in the throttle from engine braking to coasting with the clutch disengaged to accelerating?

What is the difference between a 2004 Subaru Forester 2.5L MANUAL XS and a 2004 Subaru Forester (251) MT XS ? Thanks again!

Is a complete Aisin kit good stuff? I believe my belt is the one with 223 teeth as opposed to the turbo and dohc ones that are 280 teeth. And there is something screwy also with what tranny you have, a manual transmission takes a different belt than an automatic. The kit I'm looking at is about half way down this page https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/subaru/forester/engine_mechanical/timing_belt.html with a part number 18020-09009444 Thanks.

The residue of glue from the emblem appears to end with an "S" and your description sounds like it.

The emblem of my 2004 Forester is missing, how can I tell if it's an XT, X, or XS ?

I think the kit I have is the wrong one, it's not for a 2004 XS. Although I'm not certain I have an XS ... how would I know what I have if the little plastic emblem on the hatchback is missing? It's standard tranny 5 speed Power most everything except the seats, well actually it does have heated seats and heated mirrors. Automatic climate control Auto rear view mirror dimmer for night time Anyway my kit is a Gates TCK328, except it has an extra part that is like a small idler. And the part wasn't added because I opened the sealed plastic wrapping plastic on it. I'm guessing the kit was never installed because someone found out it was the wrong one. An XS takes a Gates TCKWP304

The manual says to mark the OLD timing belt and gives measurements between the marks after it is off. Is that to make sure neither cam slipped a notch? I don't understand why not to just turn the crank to the mark at the top and verify? Or is that only if you are going to reuse the old belt? Also says to remove the tension adjuster and press it vertically and insert a pin to hold it. I have a vise that isn't mounted yet, if it's big enough, can I hang it on the side of the workbench and use that to press it in (taking 3 minutes per the manual).? Then again it seems to show putting a socket on the pulley and removing tension from the belt. And another ... Some kits say they are for automatic and some for manual, other sources don't specify?

I thought I read here that it is a non-interference type engine? Not so?

How important is it on a non turbo 2004 2.5 forester to replace the timing belt? And how difficult is it? (I have completely rebuilt a big block chevy motor with internet and phone help) For some reason it came to me with a new belt laying in the back, I know the owner previous to me was not capable of changing it. I'm guessing two owners back someone bought the belt. BTW, it has about 205000 miles on it.

I'm no expert but I'd think where it's possibly not touching the block would create a very hot spot on the sleeve.

The sound is not noticeable below ~ 30 - 40mph. When it does start it's probably faint enough that 95% of people wouldn't even notice or bother with it. Maybe I'll just turn the radio on. Seriously though, if the radio was on at a medium volume, I believe it would cover up the noise. I just tend to hear and worry about any little noise I hear.

Thanks! The transmission was rebuilt 10 months ago, I don't know how far into it he got or what was wrong that he had to have it rebuilt, but I know the transmission shop and they are top notch. I have the bill from it and I believe it was around $1700. (stick shift) And he put in a new clutch also. I pulled the dipstick for that and it's fine. I checked the rear differential and the lube looks like new so I'm guessing the tranny shop replaced that lube also. That lube does stay clean a lot longer than the motor oil, but it sure doesn't look like it's been in there for 200,000 miles.

Just for the hell of it, cause I tend to HAVE to do these things, I put a little bit of oil on the old one and spun it. It went from grinding to spinning freely. Not that I'd waste my time using it again, but I may poke a grease needle in the current one when it starts making noise. Hopefully it won't be too soon. Oh by the way, I changed it in my garage with all the doors open to let the warm air in, it was unseasonably warm the other day with a high of 75°.

Oops. 2004 Forester, 205,000 miles. I couldn't hear it until I fixed the exhaust leak.

OK next problem, or maybe it isn't a problem at all? Cruising on the highway I can hear a quiet noise from the rear of the car. It doesn't change at all when I accelerate or decelerate. Sort of sounds like the tires. Or is a little tire like noise normal? I suppose I should rotate the tires and check the gear lube. On the front drive, is the gear lube the same with the standard shift transmission or is it separate? The tranny was rebuilt about 5,000 miles ago (and a new clutch). Is there anything else in the drive train that I need to check gear lube? I'm a newbie to all wheel drive, is there a front to rear differential in addition to the front and rear differentials.

The description of the Dorman replacement one says it is much stronger than the factory one. At this point I don't know if I'll ever need it or not with my fix. My welding isn't the greatest but I *think* it's good. At LEAST as good as the factory one. If I do need one someday I won't buy a plastic one from the dealer, that's for sure.

It's FM, but it is a radio station that I'm on the fringe of the broadcast area. My other vehicles with "real" antenna's do work a lot better for that station. It's *my* station, NPR, WNCW. The window antenna's are often directional so if you drive in a circle you may find a spot that works better, but that's hard to do on the interstate.

Oh!!! I thought I read that you need to pull the whole clutch with a special puller. Maybe someday when I have nothing to do I'll do it right. I did one on a F*rd once but don't remember how it came apart.

Ah yes two things I should have done. First put a test light on the clutch power wire, well and then I wouldn't really have had to ask here, but if so I should have done a search. Not to mention I had another car 20 years ago that had the same problem, but it wasn't this easy to fix. Anyway it was the clutch and I have a 15 minute fix! May look a little funny but seems to be working great. And no I can't see these shims falling out. Actually after this picture I bent the two ends over on each of the three so they can't slide out. The metal I used was about .025" thick and very soft so I could bend it as I threaded it through.

It was warm yesterday and I checked out the a/c. It runs, gets cold, compressor cycles on and off like it should, then it cycles off and stays off. Is this common and what should I look for. Let it sit for a while and it will do it again. I'm hoping it's not the high pressure switch as I'd rather not loose all the freon. Might take it to a shop if that's what it needs. I can search, but if anyone has a handy copy of the wiring pin out of that switch I'd love a copy. Pulling the plug off and on for that switch will make the fast idle go on and off but the compressor doesn't run.

Looks like I'm not the first one to break one of these. Dorman has a supposedly new and improved one. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-73149-917-124.aspx I wanted to put mine back together and not wait for parts, so I took one of the lock nuts up top with the reverse threads and welded it to a big washer with a hole reamed out larger. It worked. Sorry I didn't take pictures, I was in a hurry. Does anyone know if the new Dorman one is metal or plastic? The bad part is that the new idler pulley is the same exact one as the one I replaced. I hear they don't last very long. Although it get rid of the noise in the engine compartment!

Thanks Tom! Mine looks the same, just haven't had the time to get to it fully but the shifter trim pops off and reveals screws.

Thanks Tex. If someone can tell me how to get it out I'd appreciate it.

Were those 6 CD units problems from new or do they normally last long? I can get by without CD's, just would like to make it all work. My favorite radio station is pretty far away but it comes in clear in my other vehicles. With the Subaru it's touch and go.

Original unit. CD player doesn't work ... yet. How do you get to the back of it/pull the whole unit? I saw posts and I'd like to check to make sure that power wire is on for the ant. amp. As far as sound goes, it's the antenna or related, stronger stations come in OK.