LEOD

Thanks to all, I put in a sensor from dealership and it works now, but the connector fell all apart, not fun, so, it could of been the old 2 things at once again.

It is the three wire sensor for the ecu, the one that's a bugger to get to. I do not have the AC charged right now, so I have not turned it on. The fans and relays are clearly good as the fan energizes when the sensor is unplugged. Temp gauge goes to the red. All I can think of to do is part swap( expensive hit and miss) I will go to the Subaru dealership and buy the factory one, which may well have been made by the same company, bosch, and see if it works. PIA

I put a auto zone temp sensor in and the fans do not run, unless you unplug the sensor. What I need to know is the resistance readings I should get when checking it at different temps, hot/cold. That way I can tell if it's the aftermarket sensor that is the problem. Thanks. I am getting 220ohms at 212 F and 2.4k ohms at 40 F. Seeks like that should be in the neighborhood from readings off other thermistors ive checked.

Yep, I haul four great danes with me everywhere, approximately 600 lbs. worth, and I belive it is causing the center support to knock on acceleration sounding like gear teeth. I believe I will ignore it, until summer, if it falls off, I can always pop in a fuse:)

Thank you both, No, that will be today I hope. Just started yesterday with a gunk gunk gunk sound when taking off which stops if front wheel drive fuse in. Gonna jack up and look at the joints today.

I thing my diff is going in my 04 outback, I have a 99 legacy wagon I can part out, aside from the 4.11 or 4.44 gear ratio difference for the tire size difference, will everything else bolt up? Near as I can tell from old threads, It should be from at least an 2000 but no one has given me any specifics. I already have a lot of "maybe's", so no more of those please, thank you.

Perfect, thanks all. I really wanted it to be wheel bearing, gonna go drop $140 on them.

Just to save myself some time, and money,I would like to figure out if it is the diff or a wheel bearing. There is a low growl when driving, and an intermittent sound when going around a corner. I am new to subaru, and have never torn apart a diff so I do not know if it is a side gear or spider gear problem, or what.

Got it, thanks Bushwick.

I suppose that would be best. 2 years passes awful fast, I would prefer to just block it off again till next time, but I do not know if it will run right without it.

Had the same deal, non EGR motor in EGR car, pipe coming from EGR valve was crimped off as there was not tapped hole in the head. It seemed to run okay, but I only drove it a few times. I had to weld a bung in the exhaust and ran a stainless appliance gas line to EGR and got through DEQ AOK. Wondering now if I can block it off again without harming performance in any way.

2004 outback, I added an EGR line to get through DEQ, as someone put in a non EGR motor. It seemed to run okay before connecting it, but I only drove it a few times, will it have any issues, too rich/lean, poor idle, economy etc.?

I passed DEQ ! Now I need to know if I can disconnect it again( till next time) without it causing any performance issues, my firebird was impossible to disable, made it run like crap if you blocked it off. Oh ya, flexible stainless line rattles like mad, must be dealt with, that stuff is like a spring.

I bought a1999 legacy wgn., new to Subaru so I did not know that was the "SPECIAL" year, special meaning several things such as piston rings that cost three to 20 times as much as others, if you can find them, seriously people are trying to sell them for between $400 and $1000 !. If you do not mind waiting a forever to get the right ones, which most people know nothing about, ( they have a 2.5 mm oil ring, all others are 2.8 or 3 mm) you can order them from dealership for $135 ( $45 for a 2.5 or a 2.2 with 3mm oil groove). Anyhow, I have the engine rebuilt and have decided I want to put it in a different car as this one has rust issues. What cars and years will this thing go in? Plug n play that is. Thank you.

I pulled the y header off, tig welded a 3/8 flare fitting on it and on the end of cut off pipe ( first time using my tig welder and I didn't screw it up, a new era has begun) and put an appliance natural gas line on it, one of those stiff yet flexible stainless ones. It snaked through there just fine and stayed where I put it. Just knowing for sure what the situation was made all the difference, Thank you again, SSI gets a stellar yelp review. Now for three road trips, and the dreaded DEQ.

Thank you very much, my brain was having overheating issues. At least now I have it nailed down and can concentrate on the how, and not the why. Even though it was a swapped head as I feared, basically worst case scenario, I know what I have to do, drill a hole in a perfectly good exhaust system for an exhaust gas source, plumb it to manifold without ANY leaks without blowing my ecm with a tig welder, no problem . HMMM Some cats have extra o2 sensor holes, maybe I will get lucky and find one.

I have a 2004 outback with a 2.5 I just bought, DEQ time. I had to reset an egr code so when I went to go through DEQ it did not pass, "not ready". Which means you must go through several driving cycles, including over 55 mph trips, at which point the egr code pops up again. Not cool when you have 7 days left on your second and final trip permit for the year. Upon inspection, i found the EGR tube at the bottom had been cut and crimped. Okay, buy a new egr tube and hook it back up, right? For the life of me, I cannot find where the bottom goes, nor have manuals or utube been any help. The only spot I see on the head is the plug for the coolant, and a aprox 10mm dia. x 25mm deep blind hole right beneath it. Did someone swap out a head? non egr? Help me , please. here is pic of tube to nowhere, egr valve and back of head