tylertrend

Just a quick notice to direct your attention to my post under the parts for sale section for anyone needing an EA81 turbo engine or wiring/ accessories. These parts will most likely be gone by the end of this month as I can't keep moving them around the country.

Holy lord, sounds like the excrement has really hit the recirculator at SOA engineering. I never cared for the FB's and how buzzy they sound (or the fact they are under square engines) but our 2.0 went over 130k with no internal issues. I think I'll stick with my SUS and its comparatively minor problems though.

Noise ended up being a front wheel bearing. Pricey repair but it's all good now.

I'll look into the axle torque. Definitely no part of the braking system has anything to do with it.

My recently purchased '99 SUS is making some very loud squealing noises from the front left area. It's a rotational noise and changes pitch with vehicle speed but is VERY pronounced at slow speed. Several weeks ago it only really did it when turning but now it's pretty much doing it all the time but worse when turning. Powering hard through low speed turns helps quiet it down but it never goes away entirely. I recently performed a full front brake job with new rotors, pads and calipers on both sides; needed done badly anyways but no change. Everything else in the front end appears pretty tight. The vehicle only has 50k miles and it handles like it. CV's appear fine, struts aren't broken or rubbing on the body. Kinda at a loss right now and I don't have a workspace currently to perform any diagnostics. I've seen other threads that mention the possibility of wheel bearings with this issue but I've never heard a bearing make this sort of noise firsthand. The RIGHT side wheel bearing has a very small amount of play but the LEFT side is completely tight. RIGHT side doesn't seem to make any noise. Any advice is appreciated.

Ah yes I am all too familiar with the EJ25D HG issues. Timing belt was done in the last year along with cam seals so all should be well there. My 99 Outback had a bazillion miles on it and it benefitted from trans-x.

I appreciate all the great input on this thread. I recently found a '99 SUS in Maroon/Gold that I picked up today. It is overall a very solid car with only 50k miles that I would say is a kinship to my formerly owned '99 Maroon/Gold Outback.

For sure! He wasn't around to show it this weekend but next week I'm gonna check it out.

Thanks for the write-up. I had aftermarket axles on a fwd ea81 car and it was obvious they were sub par. If I end up with the vehicle I'll keep those seal kits you have in mind.

Looking at picking up a really mint '93 Loyale sedan 4wd that has a verified 33k miles. Super clean inside and out. This would be my first foray into the EA82 platform and have a few questions maybe the pros could answer. 1) Even with the low mileage, the timing belts are almost 30 years old and have never been changed. How much should they be trusted? 2) 3AT - I'm told it works fine (will verify) but again age vs mileage, should a basic fluid and filter service keep it healthy for years to come? Can't imagine governor gears or oil pump issues, etc popping up at just 33k miles. 3) Anything special to know about the SPFI or OBD system? 4) Any other quirks of this chassis/drivetrain I should be aware of? I know EA82 engines can develop issues with lifters and head cracks but that's about the extent of my knowledge on them. I know the 3ATs run high RPMs but my commute is strictly back roads up to about 45mph so that's not a deterrent to me. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

It looks very good! I believe I sent you some mirrors a couple years ago now that I think of it

Had a similar situation happen to me but my pulley wasn't broken in the back like yours. Engine ran fine afterward, I didn't perform any in depth inspections. I would be checking everything electrical at this point. Check Car-Part.com for the pulley, plenty of listings last I looked.

This vehicle is now for sale, post in the for sale thread

The heads probably are the same, the block is only different in that the piston design is different from the 251/253. There are pics on google images, they're kinda unique. The manifold is different. I used to own a vehicle with this engine and it always ran smoother than any other SOHC Subaru

Looks like a first gen front lower ball joint

Ah, totally missed that little detail. Thanks

I'm looking for the rubber strip at the top rear of the front bumper, under the headlamps and grille for a 1981-1984 FWD.

I replaced the radiator today along with new coolant and flushed the system. The old radiator was full of sludge and crap but the car runs great now and the temps are right where they should be. Problem Solved! Hope everyone else can find success.

It could well be from the PO. I find out something new every day it seems!

I just went on a test drive and it consistently runs hot under high rpm/load. On the highway, turning the heat on full brought it down to about 210F steady vs high 220's so I just ordered a new rad and will do a complete flush of everything this weekend and report back. I checked the TB tension also and it's good and tight, just for semantics.

I have never added coolant conditioner, but I can't speak to what the PO may have done. I can't say I saw any evidence of the stuff when I did the HGs.

Original HG failure was just oil leaks, Didn't run hot for me or the PO to my knowledge. I had the overflow out a few weeks ago and gave it a good scrubbing. It's this metallic flake stuff that's weird to me. I've been reading about issues with heater core blockages causing issues but this car has always, and does today, have great heat. No exceptions. The hot running didn't really start until I moved from ME to OK so maybe it just needs a good flushing and a new rad.

Interesting observation as I was out doing another bleeding of the system. There are a lot of small chunks that look like graphite and are very soft. I was able to get a couple large ones and smear them on the funnel and they are full of a brass looking flake, I can see it pooling on the bottom of the filler neck too. Maybe old deposits from a HG problem years back? I never did a complete "flush" of the system when I did them. Maybe the rad is plugged up with this stuff. Curious about where all that metallic flake is coming from.

Well since my overheating only happens under highway load, in the heat of the day, no oil/coolant mixing, no white smoke, and perhaps a small amount of arrogance that I did the HG job properly so they shouldn't be a problem points me towards the radiator. It's 16 years old/ 188K and the original unit. The one on my '99 OB literally cracked apart when I was out of state traveling when it was 18 years old so maybe it's just time.

I am wondering if it would be a good test to remove the Thermostat and see if that fixes things. Would indicate if combustion gasses are getting in and messing with the T-stat or if the rad can't dissipate the heat anymore. I may try that tomorrow while I'm fixing the coolant leak that my GLF sprung right when I got home tonight (cut in heater core hose over a worm clamp).