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Everything posted by tylertrend
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@mikestrick1 I am having very similar symptoms, new OEM Tstat, radiator looks fine, only hot after a highway trip. My HGs were done 20k mi ago and I do notice some slight coolant loss but no white smoke or any oil contamination. No wetness on the bottom of the heads either. I am trying to sell mine and pretty much refuse to deal with the HGs again. I'm sticking with EA engines from here forward!
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EA81 Unsolvable steering wheel shake
tylertrend replied to tylertrend's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks everyone for the input, I have many things to go play with now and see what outcome I get.- 14 replies
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EA81 Unsolvable steering wheel shake
tylertrend replied to tylertrend's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I think the axles are "good" for the purposes of this problem. Factory wheels but the hub could be an interesting diagnosis. I had to replace one already due to worn out splines but it could be out of true, I'll check. Alignment is pretty good, no super uneven toe that I believe would cause this.- 14 replies
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EA81 Unsolvable steering wheel shake
tylertrend replied to tylertrend's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yep, steering wheel. A good half inch total back and forth at its worst. Have no reason to think wheels and with brand new weights.. well I guess you never really know. That Uni joint on mine is solid.- 14 replies
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EA81 Unsolvable steering wheel shake
tylertrend posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My '82 GLF coupe has a wheel shake at highway speeds that persists even after new tires, brakes, brake rotors, repacked bearings, tight suspension, rack, tie rods and new front axles. I noticed the output shafts on the trans (5MT) are pretty sloppy and have a lot of movement. The axles also make sounds like they're worn out when slow speed cornering even though they are new. Anybody dealt with this, and is it possible the loose trans output shafts can cause a bad wheel shake at high speeds? If that is it there is probably not much I can or will do to mend it.- 14 replies
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It looks solid enough and would say that if you want it, then get it! I think the Hitachi carbs catch more flak than they need to. If the float is adjusted and the gaskets are good it should work.. after the varnish has been cleaned out. I've had very few issues with the one on my 1800 motor and it has throttle shaft leaks and vacuum lines capped off and so on so on but you can tune out small issues like that.
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1978 Subaru Wagon vs a modern Jeep
tylertrend replied to nipper's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Watched this last night. What a fun video and a great survivor DL -
The '99s were DOHC but with the new phase 2 block so better main bearings and coolant passages but phase 1 pistons and heads. Great engine IMO. Also had a '98 OB with 213k that I bought broken.. one of the camshafts had locked up and broke 2 of the composite cam pulleys but one new exhaust valve and a HG/TB job later it ran fine. Always liked the 99 more though. They were both Autos, a first for me but I actually didn't mind that. For my peace of mind though my 245k EA81 can truly go the distance
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I had my '99 Outback for about a year and sold it with 289k on it. Bought it with blown gaskets but it ran well and I really liked that car. No doubt it'll go for a long time. My '04 Legacy is approaching 190k and runs great, only burns a small amount of oil. Our '13 Crosstrek has 110k and recently had the engine out for the valve spring recall and it burns a couple quarts between changes but it doesn't leak anywhere and runs strong. Shortly after the valve springs, it lost a tranny solenoid that cost $1700 to mend.. that stung a little but I didn't have the heart to do it myself.
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1982 GLF Suspension Questions
tylertrend replied to Evinrude's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Wow this is about the second other GLF besides mine that I know to exist, and mines a 1982 also. Be curious to hear from the OP how this one is holding up. -
I sold my only one to Carfreak85 a couple years ago. I don't think it's the only one he has so you might give him a try. Thats the only thing I can think of. I know they are unobtanium outside of this forum as you may be finding out.
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I still have my 2004 Legacy sedan 35th anniversary edition 5 speed and aside from the touchy e-throttle (CA emissions) I really like it. Solid, creak free and corners great. I bought mine with 160K on it and changed the leaking gaskets right away. Has 185K now and doesn't even weep from anywhere. I've considered selling mine recently but wouldn't settle for much less than $4k because mine is MINT - interior, rust, body. Great cars though.. don't wear tires like the successor sedans/ Outbacks.
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Ah ok. I have a digi and full harness but that won't be of any help in your case
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Just gonna jump in quick. Can't help with a fuel tank but are you looking for an analog or digi-dash cluster and harness?
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Quite a bit but not quite enough, I guess. At this point it's all just kind of pedantic conversation as the details become more fuzzy. Some data for a more technical review: Motortrend road test when new, got that model to stop in 120 ish feet from 55 mph with a professional driver. The vehicle is 168 inches total length or 14 feet. That is a stopping distance of 8.5 car lengths at 55mph. I was doing 63 and saw the incident in front of me as soon as it happened. If you figure 140-150 feet to stop from 65mph (typical highway speed in US), if you're equipment is in good condition, that's 10.5 - 11 car lengths in dry weather. When you factor in reaction time and other variables, the situation can change even less in your favor. The fact that I only cut my finger on the radio knob and had a sore nose from the steering wheel, and my shops opinion on impact speed, indicates I got down to about 15 or so mph. You may be wondering why I didn't just swerve and avoid. Partly because I would have gone left, as there were cars to the right, and there was a concrete barrier wall just off the left lane on this highway and sudden maneuvers at speed could have resulted in a rollover or more severe impact with a solid object (which would have ended very poorly for me). So I took the sure way out. I wish it could have played out differently but presently both me and my vehicle are fully functional, so I can sleep well at night knowing that. I should add also, in case I haven't already that I could only see the vehicle directly in front of me and when he rear ended the stopped car in front of him, he came to a flat dead stop. Not a situation you really expect on a light traffic highway in the middle of the day. He was in a 4 year old vehicle with all the latest gizmos so I'm not exactly sure what his excuse is... Original crash testing done at 30mph. Cool video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7geNTvZcRQY&t=97s Just some food for thought for anyone driving around in these old rigs.
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Well maybe that's a bit hyperbolic, but I still wouldn't have walked away like I did.
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Haha 5 car lengths and I would have been dead at the scene. But I hear what you're saying.
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Well chaps, she is all done! Got the rest of everything put on today and drove it home. Drives just like it did before.. straight, true and zippy. The fender I painted with a rattle can of Rustoleum white satin. It's at least white but I will try to get something a bit closer to dust it with in the future. Also painted the black on the headlight surrounds while they were off. Time to finally try to get through this whole tank of fuel and figure out my MPGs. In case anyone might be wondering, we estimate the hit velocity somewhere in the upper teens, in MPH. The full parts list is: Core support Fender Headlamp assembly Crank pulley Radiator Battery Rad Fan (I had) Headlight surround (I had) Grille (I had) Straightened the existing hood Total parts bill was shy of $500. Shop estimated $2-4k if someone had just brought it in wanting it fixed. Good thing I had plenty of time to put into it! I elected not to replace any A/C parts as I see that as a *maybe* project down the road.
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Ouch, that is pretty knackered. My Legacy took a grazing to the same area but only pushed in the panel around the wheel arch, didn't mess with the door, dogleg, lights, suspension etc. That looks like a big undertaking. Sorry to see that happened, it's never fun.
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It was quite nose low on impact and my bumper just BARELY slid under theirs. Those Subie bumpers are surprisingly heavy duty and a good hit to one would bring that frame rail to its knees, is my guess. It wont be the prettiest thing around for a while, but at least it's still around. Where did your Legacy take damage?