tylertrend

Not bad for a couple days work. I am putting everything back on the front end tomorrow and it'll be back prowling the streets sometime next week. We were all surprised and impressed by how well the structure held up, and whatever degree of energy absorption engineering is there did its job well. I feel lucky that no major frame rails were acutely bent or mashed, as that probably would have been the end of the road. Time to throw all this ugly business to the past and get back to enjoying my.., erm, classy ride.

Gates 348827 2005-2007 Leg/OB

You can get quality rebuild kits for about $30 and they are pretty easy to do. Did a couple of '99 Outbacks a while back and it's an easy DIY. You do not want that fluid leaking over the TB covers for much longer.

I wrecked my Legacy 3.5 years ago of my own accord.. and inappropriate tires for snow, and it just got fixed this summer. I am not going to accept that kind of timetable on this project.

Thanks everyone for your supportive comments. I am in the process of ordering parts to get her fixed up! Got the hood open and the fender apron is very easily repairable. I have ordered a crank pulley, headlamp assembly and a NEW core support (Don't ask, I don't want to wear out my god powers). Just need to make a trip to get my radiator and fender. The shop figures 1-2 days to pull it all straight, cut out the old and weld in the new. Plan on it being roadworthy the end of January.

Its a shame the platform didn't hold up better overall but once mine was sorted I really enjoyed it and the comfort and noise level IMO was quite good. No argument though that my 2004 Legacy, despite the touchy drive by wire and sensitive cat monitoring, is a more solid chassis and just one hell of a vehicle... I think I'm going to sell it soon!

Cost me $6k to make mine a perfect vehicle between engine and suspension. I went forged with braided oil lines but otherwise fully stock. Eventually couldn't tolerate the fuel cost and oil leaks so I sold it.

Mine had a cat in the DP and from what I know, they all should. Side bar, the UP only had cats in them for 05 and 06. Is it an original Subaru part?

So today was a rough day. I was in involved in a 4 car collision on the freeway, luckily being the last of the string to rear end the one in front of them. The Coupe sustained damage to the front trim, core support, fender, hood, rad etc but luckily the frame looks largely unharmed. It is sitting at the shop where I work part time and we are assessing the damage to see about how or if we can repair it. At this point all I can say is I will do everything to keep it from turning into your next bud light can but this process will take time. The causation of the accident was not my fault, I just ended up being the last one involved and didn't act quick enough to save it (was not distracted or road raging. I truly do enjoy driving this car, it's easy to drive and has a lot of character, but this was a huge blow mentally and somewhat physically. That big 'ol steering wheel leaves a little to be desired when it comes to crash safety but I walked away so, eh.

Had to pull the engine from the car last week to take care of some bad oil leaks and found water in the oil system which prompted a full teardown to the short block. Best I could tell the water was a result of: 1) Condensation from running cold, 2) Trash left in the engine from last time I had it apart in passages I couldn't clean. It's all back together now and on the road and looks good so far. I also got a larger main jet for my carburetor (from a 103 to 112) and it runs much better, virtually eliminating the mid range flat spot. We'll see how it holds up going forward. Also added some Dynamat to the trunk area/wheel wells and it helps a little. The cabin will be loud as long as most of the interior is missing.

Mine's got a pretty bad one. I'm trying to make it a little better through tuning.

I had an 05 OBXT 5MT for several years.. Sold it in March. They are comfortable and fun when sorted but my god mine took a lot to get there. Lots of suspension work and I had to totally rebuild my 130K mi engine shortly after I bought it because, well, it was fu^$*ed. Ran great after that but after I moved from ME it didn't make sense to keep. Tokyo Roki oil filters and Rotella T6 every 4-6k keeps them going forever. Always have cash on hand for tires too. The LGT's are a little better than the Outbacks, but still. What's your mileage?

https://www.amazon.com/Dromedary-Carburetor-Datsun-Pulsar-16010-H1602/dp/B074C68D2D https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/Carburettor-Carb-Fit-for-Nissan-A14-engine-Pulsar-1977-1981-16010H6100.html Basic google search also turns up plenty of options. I prefer the A14 carb because the choke cable runs in from the back, not the front like the A12 (I know, first world problems). All these units have basically no emission control ports, just ported vacuum for the disty. Here's a link to jets and other parts if need be. https://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_hitachi_main_4H7.html

Here's the backstory: The carb I'm currently running on my EA81 in my Coupe I pulled off of an '81 brat in a junkyard along with the manifold. My unit says its a DCP 306-16/304, has manual choke and a vacuum secondary. The venturi sizes are 20/27. The only reference I can find to a carb like that is the Hitachi unit from Nissan A12 engines from the 70s. My setup has a small flat spot in the acceleration which has had me looking at how to remedy that. I am going to try raising the float level a smidge or maybe getting some slightly larger jets. I think this carb can run this engine properly it just needs tuned a bit more. It's pretty close as it is. The carb for the Nissan A14 engines is larger, I believe** its a 23/27, don't quote me on that. If I cannot get mine where I want it to be, I will get the A14 carb and see how it works. All the Nissan spec carbs have mechanical secondaries which is nice too, and manual chokes. The main point of this whole story is that I have found new A12 and A14 carbs (Hitachi design, just like the stock EA carbs) online for $40-$50. If these work satisfactorily this could be a cheap way to get a car running again and look stock, no worries of sloppy throttle shafts, and no expensive Weber swaps with stupid looking air filters. I will report back with more info and testing. Anyone tried this already?

No idea. We'd have to have a good one in the first place and that in itself could be tricky. I'm thinking of just painting a black decal over the outline of the badge.

Very good. I believe I sold you an ea-81 turbo ECM within the last year. Just by chance I had everything to do a turbo swap but I don't like computers and I do like carbs so I kept it original.

Yes, my rear pillar emblems are long gone and I won't make a big fuss about trying to replace them. My car is White exterior with navy interior, and a grey crack free dash I had as a spare.

So I am just getting my '82 GLF back on the road and wanted to start a thread here and try to get an idea how many of these things are left on the road, specifically in the USA, and what condition they are in. Mine is largely original, factory paint in poor condition, hail dented to holy heck, the engine was replaced in the 90's and the mileage reads 240,700. But hey, it runs!

Not to start an internet war, but I feel the need to soapbox for a minute. It seems like every other post I see on here nowadays suggests ditching EA-81 engines that are fixable or in currently running condition with an EJ swap and I just cannot understand it. I am a big proponent of classic cars and keeping them stock. I just started driving my EA-81 and I love it and think it is plenty adequate for the vehicle size and has a very unique character. The other hangup with EJ swaps is the cost involved which isn't really feasible for many people. Remember that if we keep throwing away the parts of our EA-81 platform vehicles because there's still stuff out there, you'll wake up one day and there won't be jack spoob left. I deal with this with the vintage Mercedes cars I work on all the time. No offense to anyone personally, just makes me sleep better at night trying to save the history. As for the issue of the C/W carb, yes they can be tricky, Mine came with one but I swapped it for a factory Hitachi manifold and carb. Runs fine.

Finished repairing the trim behind the steering wheel. The plastic was breaking apart so I built it back up with epoxy where it was disintegrating, shaped it and painted it. The paint is a Rustoleum Classic Navy blue which is close enough the the blue interiors to be acceptable. The making of the new seats is underway also.

That is just a shroud around the manifold that is used to supply heated air to the air filter box when its cold. There should be a dryer vent looking pipe that runs from that shroud to the round port underneath the air box

I can only comment for the Outback as I owned a 2005 OBXT 5spd until recently. I thought it was comfy and all but I bought mine 4 years ago and the engine blew days later. Rebuilt it to stock over many months, and it was ok after that. Dealt with axles, bearings, suspension, alignment, tires that wore out fast, scary handling on ice etc. Eventually I just couldn't justify paying for it anymore (plus the oil leaks had me PO'd) Interior looked nice but wish they had kept it more durable in some areas. On the plus side, the HVAC always worked fine..

New update, I just got done moving to a new place across town and I brought the car over to her new home last night. First time I have driven the car ever outside of the driveway. The ride was less than comfortable on my back because I still don't have my seats done, so a stack of old sheets had to suffice. I was very impressed with the ride, the shifting, and the power (props to me for knowing carburetors well and timing engines by feel ). The tires look like they were made in the last millenia and are not perfectly round but that's little stuff, and I'm hoping they get better with use. And the tires are supported by freshly painted wheels, complete with OE trim rings and center caps. They turned out great for a weekend job, I used my auto guns with a Nason primer and base/clear system. As soon as the seats are done along with some other interior tid bits, she'll be cruisin' around town regularly. Other recent work has included fitting the rear window trim, exterior trim, full brake job, axle, a replacement front hub and the like. More to come, Stay tuned

@sparkyboy I'll probably pass this time, only cause I'm very partial to the 4 spoke. Thanks for taking the time to check.

If it still is I'd be floored to get ahold of it. My original one is blue also.