88SubGL

You said you see some smoke coasting and then see more smoke when you accelerate after you were coasting? If that’s correct, then it’s valve related. When you’re coasting the engine creates more vacuum, pulling oil by the valves and into the cylinder, then when you accelerate you burn the excess oil and you see it more out your tailpipe. You may also see smoke when you first start it up in the morning. If it’s rings, you will see smoke every time you accelerate from a stop sign or traffic light.

Is it turning over ok, just not getting fire or is it having trouble turning over? With everything that you mentioned that you had changed, it sounds like you were having an issue with it turning over. Are you the same issue or is it something new?

I saw Autoworld had re-released it. I have one of the original releases of it. Cool WRX version.

I usually contact the seller I bought the compressor from. When I replaced the compressor on my ‘88 Wagon, I was told 8oz. of PAG 150, yours may be different. Also, ifyou haven’t already, l would suggest going through and replacing all the o-rings with R134 compatible ones.

He notched the frame rails for the dohc engine on page 3.

Are you losing brake fluid? If so, it may be a bad wheel cylinder. If not, check your brake pads and shoes for wear. Or possibly the rear shoes need adjusted.

Really need to find what caused the backfire. Usually a timing issue. Maybe one of the timing belts jumped a tooth. Belts replaced recently?

Any type of wet lube attracts dirt. Like wd-40, chain lube, grease, etc. That’s what carb cleaner is for, to get rid of the garbage that is preventing the linkage from moving freely. If it has a cable going to the carb it could be frayed inside the cable housing and not allowing it to idle back down. I had that happen on a Datsun pickup.

What did you do to fix the stripped head bolt threads? How did they strip?

KA in that Subaru is not a good idea. Sit to far forward of the front axle. If you start cutting into the body, it will ruin the structural integrity of that unibody car. I’m a Nissan guy myself and the KA is a good engine, just not in this application.

Use only Subaru factory o-rings. Go to parts.subaru.com to order them and then pick them up at your local dealership. They’re $2.75 each.

I had to use pliers to force the wire through.

When you tried the wire trick, could you blow through the line. Mine had a lot of gunk in it. I would think I was all the way through and I wasn’t. I couldn’t blow through it. If you could, then either you still have a lot of trash in the tank or the problem is somewhere else. Make the lines are clear from the carb to the tank before going through the trouble of pulling the tank again.

I had this problem on a 1970 Datsun truck, it had been sitting a while. I pulled the tank and used a coat hanger. Kept jamming it through where the fuel line attaches, until it reached the bottom of the tank. No way air would have cleared it. Make sure your lines to the tank are clear.

Not a bad idea.

So I don’t have the part of the fsm that shows the dash wiring, does anyone have a scan from the fsm or know where I can find one? I would really like to see how the hvac is wired. Thanks

Thanks. At least I have a direction to go. I’ll check out the fsm.

Thanks for the reply. So was the “genius” the previous owner or the factory? If the factory, was the wiring at the switch or under the hood? I’m guessing at the switch. My compressor was running the entire time the heat was on.

I have a 1988 GL 4WD d/r wagon that I bought back in May. The clutch was bad, so I pulled the engine to replace it and resealed the engine from the head gaskets up. Also replaced all 7 coolant hoses. Thanks for the various tips found here to accomplish this. Now the question: I’ve just started driving it and found that no matter which hvac button I push, the a/c compressor engages. Is this normal? I know on most cars, when you turn on the defrost it comes on but not in the other positions, except for the a/c of coarse. Thanks for any insight on this.